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Description: http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/file:1488
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Bloc Steno (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C |
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Bloc Steno | Climb the rib without using the arete. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Roof and Rib | Use the right arete. | Edit | Delete |
Moyer's Buttress & Pogle's Wood (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B |
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Bitter Fun | On the crag above and north of Pogle's Wood. This climbs the lower left arete of a route called Cave Gully | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Green Speed | On the crag above Pogle's Wood, just right of a route called Green Crack. From a sit start on a low rail in the leafy pit, slap up the steepness to a ledge. Finish with a tricky move to get stood on this. The flake is out for hands at this grade. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Bad/Angry Fox | The next rock right of Green Speed is a steep blank wall (approx 30m left of Gritstone Treaty). This climbs the right arete from a sit start. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Pogle's Wood LH | Use the left arete to reach a slopey topout directly up the centre. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Pogle's Wood LH Sitstart | Edit | Delete | |
6C+ |
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Pogle's Wood | Use the right arete to gain a slopey top out directly up the centre. | Edit | Delete |
7B (hard) |
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Pogle's Wood Sitstart | Tough moves from the low break lead into the standup. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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The Gritstone Treaty | The left arete of the diamond block left of Moyer's Buttress. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Mo's Thing | The right arete of the diamond block left of Moyer's Buttress. Very dodgy landing. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Perfect Day Direct Start | No jumpstart. Climb direct to the high jug. Needs a few pads. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ (hard) |
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Perfect Day French Start | From the ground, bounce into the first crimp and finish as per normal. | Edit | Delete |
Bin Laden's Cave (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ |
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Bin Lillemule | Climb the left arete. Watch out for the tree. A little harder than the original. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ (soft) |
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Bin Laden's Cave | Slap leftwards along the lip to a slopey top. | Edit | Delete |
Drum Roll (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
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Drum Roll | Climb the central line: a strenuous pull on with a sidepull flake gains a tenuous bridge; slap to the obvious sloper. Hard to stick! | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Drum Roll Sitstart | Crumbly rock leads easily to the standing start | Edit | Delete |
Capillary Crack Buttress (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6A+ |
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Chav's Head | The nose-like arete/prow on the far left of the buttress, from a sit start. Reach round the chin, share the nose, get the sloping brow and slap for the baseball cap. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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A Fearful Orange | Starting on a perfect triangular sloper in the open groove, gain and climb the highball dogleg crack, lurching left at the top for a tiny groove (the top bit is a neglected John Allen E1 6a called Squeeze Your Lemon). | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Fearful Head | The start of AFO traversing into the end of CH at the undercuts. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Neutral Milk Hotel | The lovely highball arete behind the oak tree, climbed on it's LHS. May have been done years ago. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Two Headed Boy | The arete on its right to the shelf, which is then traversed right to its end. Rockup and top out to finish (an undercut fingerlock may help). | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Ladder Coins | Up the hill at the right side of the buttress, right of a small birch tree. Up the wall to a ledge via sloping crimps. Just left of a groove. Can be done direct or with a LH finish which is easier but not as good. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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The Fool | The wall right of 2 headed boy. Start up the hill, on a slotty break. Traverse leftwards along thin slots and slopers with minimal (no) footholds. Finish up juggy breaks just right of the finish of Two Headed Boy. | Edit | Delete |
Double Bum (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
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Double Bum | Launch for the horizontal pinch and exit rightward via sloping ledge and jug. The flake is not in at this grade. The crimpy highball direct finish is still to do. | Edit | Delete |
Business as Usual (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B+ (soft) |
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Left Arete LH | The arete on its left, from standing. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Dirty Business | Overhanging left arete on it's steep RH side. Sitstart. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ (hard) |
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Plan D | Climb Dirty Business without the good edges on the right. | Edit | Delete |
7C (soft) |
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Plan D Sitstart | The sitter adds a couple of trickyish moves and perhaps bumps the grade up a notch | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Business as Usual | Jumpstart to jugs. Big moves lead to a scary top-out. Eliminate the left arĂȘte for the E5 tick. Only 6b using the arĂȘte. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Business as Usual Standing Start | Pull on with crimp and undercut. A right foot nubbin may be of use. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Forward-Thinking Sound Engineer | The right arete on its left, from standing. No crack. | Edit | Delete |
English Voodoo (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C+ (hard) |
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English Voodoo | The overhanging arete/prow climbed mostly on its LHS, with great moves on a pocket, an exceptionally tasty pinch and some layaways. The crack (yes that includes the pocket that's almost in it) to the right is out of bounds. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ (hard) |
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English Voodoo Sitstart | The crack to the right is out of bounds. | Edit | Delete |
Crocodile Buttress (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B+ |
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Agadoo | On the shady north face of the buttress (opposite side to Crocodile). Starting off a big ledge. Originally given E3 6b. Gain and climb hanging flake from good slot. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Agadoo Sit Start | A good sitter with a tricky move from break to slot. | Edit | Delete |
Flight of the Bumblebee (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
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Flight of the Bumblebee | Climb the double arete from sit start | Edit | Delete |
Undertaker's Buttress (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7C |
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Abraham Lankin | Climb the furthest right part of the wall in the gully from sitting on good undercuts. Big moves lead you to the ledge up and left. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Zawn Raider | Climb up a series of good cracks in the gully to the ledge. | Edit | Delete |
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info