The Wave

Description: The rightmost block is very undercut and overhanging. It has a good collection of almost indoor style problems, all steep and mostly on positive holds. The right side suffers persistent seepage from boggy ground above, however a decent breeze is usually enough to dry the holds (still worth bringing a rag to help it along).

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Recent ascents: click here to view

Problems:

7A+	Global rating average: 0.0 out of 5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0		Chip Shop Scrawl	The hanging left arete. The ledge out left is out (obviously).	Edit	Delete
7B	Global rating average: 0.0 out of 5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0		Chip Shop Scrawl SS	Shared sitter with Inside Out	Edit	Delete
6B	Global rating average: 0.0 out of 5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0		Monty Skip's The Pellet	Flake/groove just right of the left arete, starting in a big slot.	Edit	Delete
6C	Global rating average: 0.0 out of 5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0		Monty SS	Shared SS with Inside Out	Edit	Delete
6B+	Global rating average: 0.0 out of 5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0		Inside Out	Start from Monty's slot, climb a rising rightward line on great holds to a sloping top near the arete.	Edit	Delete
6C+	Global rating average: 0.0 out of 5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0		Inside SS	Sit start in the break and work round the nose to gain the slot.	Edit	Delete
7B	Global rating average: 0.0 out of 5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0		Sneakin' the Beak in	Stand start left of the arete on an undercut and the lip hold (also used on Black Rhino). Slap into the break and topout on slopers.	Edit	Delete
7C+	Global rating average: 0.0 out of 5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0		Broke Beak Mountain	The sitter to Sneakin'. Start on poor undercuts. Gain the lip hold and power into the undercuts of Sneakin'.	Edit	Delete
7A	Global rating average: 5.0 out of 5 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0		Black Rhino	The main bulge is bounded on its right by a superb overhanging arete. Sit start on the lowest break and slap up the arete direct. Preferably don’t use the lip hold for feet (it’s easier without anyway).	Edit	Delete
6B	Global rating average: 0.0 out of 5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0		Those Who Seek	From a sit start at the base of the arete climb the open groove to a triangular sloper. Span out and traverse lip holds to gain the hanging groove out right, follow this to easy ground. Alternatively finishing left from the top of the initial groove is part of the route 100 Not Out and about 6a+ with the sit start.	Edit	Delete
7B+	Global rating average: 0.0 out of 5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0		Jellyband	Start up Jellybowler then traverse left along the thin break to finish up Black Rhino. If the start is wet it can be started high on the right instead at a 7b.	Edit	Delete
7B	Global rating average: 0.0 out of 5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0		Jellybowler	Sit start in the scooped cave. Crimp out on the crimpiest of crimps to good lip holds and finish up the groove.	Edit	Delete

• Samuel Palmer sent Black Rhino, The Wave, Howshaw Tor, date: Saturday 24 Apr 2021, details