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Wharncliffe - Gritstone
Description: None.
Access: During lambing season, access from the chase end parking (walking through the farmer's fields) is not allowed and it's about 35 min walk from Deepcar to Dragon's den. An alternative approach (recommended by the farmer) is to park just off the upper road, a few hundred metres further along (away from Sheffield) than Chase lodge, and follow the track along the edge of the woods, then through them to the edge top. This brings you out near the Kim Span area, which is a good warm up spot, before continuing aong to Dragons Den.
Ascents: Show recent ascents.
Updates: Show latest updates.
Top 10 problems: (view all problems)
All problems: (view only the best problems)
| Hell Gate Gully Area (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 6B+ |
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Dinosaur Egg Arete | Sit start on the left. Move onto and around the arete and finish direct. Standing start is just as good at 6a. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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Face Wall | The slabby wall has good moves on crimps to a bucket or sloper finish. PDB p27 | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B |
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Up To A Point | The left arête of the pointy block from sitting. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Pointy Block Problem | There is apointy block beneath the crag. Climb the steep rippled side, from sitting. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A |
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There's No Point | Layback the left arete from standing and slap high for summat to help you rock up and over away from the point. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A |
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Not Sorry | Climb the overhanging arete 5m below the Pointy Block from standing. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A+ |
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Sorry | (The sit start to 'Not Sorry')Using a small undercling, sit start the overhanging arete with difficulty. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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House Music | The clean slab with a curving flake on the walls 20m South of the Pointy Block. Climb the slab mainly up the left side. Highball but escapable. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A+ |
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The Cardinal | A big wide overhanging prow, 10m north of the big Belle Vue Boulder. Sit-start with hands on the detached block at the back (feet on this block only at the start) and hug/slap out. Starting block reinforced before first ascent, so check it's not wobbly before trying it (should be fine). | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Butterfly Crack | Down and right of the Hell Gate area (almost underground), is a desperately steep crack. 70 degrees overhanging, requiring butterfly jams and foot cams all the way to the end. The block out left at the end is allowed. Stand start at the back and make your way to the top. "Beautifully painful and good quality moves." | Edit | Delete | |
| Slab and Crazy Legs (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7B |
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The Parson's Finch | A direct line up the slopey prow, starting with feet at the back. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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Crazy Legs Crane | On the front of the boulder, from the slot, trend leftwards to a spicy topout. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4 (soft) |
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Slab Centre | Edit | Delete | ||
| 4+ |
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Narrow Slab | Left of the arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4 |
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Right Arete | Edit | Delete | ||
| Ewden Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 5 |
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Steep Arete | Finish at the ledge, and escape leftwards. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4 |
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Finger Crack | Edit | Delete | ||
| Lodge Buttress (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 4 (soft) |
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Flakes and Left Arete | On the slabby wall. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4 (soft) |
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Centre | On the slabby wall. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4+ (soft) |
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Right Arete | On the slabby wall. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4+ |
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Ogilvie's Corner | Traverse on pockets to reach the direct. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B+ |
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Ogilvie's Direct | The finger crack goes from sitting. Stop when you feel scared. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A+ (hard) |
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Curvaceous | A double arete requiring finesse and friction slapping. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A |
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Slab | From the boulder, ascend the slab to reach the sloping ledge up and left. | Edit | Delete | |
| Dragon's Den (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7A+ |
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Dragon Slayer | Start low beneath the corner prow, and make horizontal hugging moves to finish up the arete. Avoid the right wall. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A+ |
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The Dragon's Den | From undercuts and feet on the neighbouring wall, span to the lip and blast upwards. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4+ |
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Flake | Turn the prow into a flake and layback, with feet on the back wall. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B |
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Sweet Move | The move into the flake is a worthy problem in its own right. From the start of Easy Way, span leftwards to the flake and finish up Dragon's Den. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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Easy Way | From the arete, gain the big hold in the centre. Not actually that easy. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B |
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Jorge | Direct finish to Easy Way. Avoid the big hold on the right. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Jorge Jr | An eliminate sequence. Start as for Easy Way, then stretch right for the slopey pocket. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A+ |
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Crouching Tiger | A fingery dyno from the crimpy break to the big sloper. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Blunted | Start matched on the obvious edge in the undercut arete. Climb to the break and continue up the rib. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A+ |
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Blunted (Strict) | Avoid the foot ramp on the right. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C (hard) |
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Sweet Release | Climb Blunted and move into the thin break. traverse leftwards to make a hard move across the gap and finish up Dragon's Den. | Edit | Delete | |
| Bear Pit (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 6A+ |
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Wet Arete | The arete left of Bear Pit. Sometimes not dry. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B+ |
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Bear Pit | Start just left of the crack in the small pit/cave. Climb the roof via pockets, then up the wall. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B+ (hard) |
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Bear Pit Original | Start on the right hand side of the crack. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4 (soft) |
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Small Arete | Just right of Bear Pit, a small arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| Fishboy Cave (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 5 |
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Blu Wig Sheep | Left of Sushi is a graffiti covered block. Climb this without the aretes. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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Sushi | Sitstart the arete of the left side of Fishboy, using heels and toes to prevent swing-dabbing on the nearby boulder. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B+ |
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Sushi Low | A very low start matched on the flat hold at the base of the overhanging wall. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Fishboy | From a good hold near the back, bridge and wedge yourself outwards to a green topout. Unusual. | Edit | Delete | |
| Jellyeyes Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 5+ |
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Left Arete | Edit | Delete | ||
| 7A |
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Jellyeyes | Climb the wall on its left. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B+ (hard) |
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Jellyeyes (strict) | Avoid undercutting the break. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4 (soft) |
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Groove | From sitting. | Edit | Delete | |
| Outlook Roof (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 6A+ |
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Link up. | From left, traverse the lip into Outlook Roof. Finish up this. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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Hard Mantel | On the uphill side, mantel upwards. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A |
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Outlook Roof | From a low break, cross the roof to a rockover finish. Easier than it looks. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5 |
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Pete's Route | On the tall side of the block, exit the roof using a horn and continue upwards. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5 |
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Terry Tibbs | Mantel the small block about 10m just down to the left (facing downhill) of Outlook Roof. | Edit | Delete | |
| Opposite Outlook Roof (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 6A+ |
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Lembas arete | The arete is slightly smaller than Lembas but still worthwhile. Probably been done before. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A+ |
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Slab and the Beanstalk | Climb the vanishing crack and finish up the slab. A tight line left of the corner crack. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Sneaky Little Fingers | The tall wall left of the arete, via a long lock to a tiny slot. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4 |
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Pixie's Arete | The leaning arete offers mischevious fun. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C+ |
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Lembas | Worryingly high wall right of Pixie's Arete. E4. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Kim Span | Climb the lower wall from sitting, then span across the roof to an edge, then the top. Not as morpho as you might think. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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Dirty Roof | The furthest right line through the roof. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A |
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Lembas Arete | The arete to the left of Lembas, climbed on its right hand side. | Edit | Delete | |
| Lower Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7A+ |
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Hardstart | On the far left of the wall, climb up from sitting, using the right arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A+ |
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Slappy Moves | Just left of the central groove, slap upwards from a low start. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A+ |
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Similiar Pockets | Just right of the central groove, climb from standing. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A+ |
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Pockets Standing | Climb the pockets on the far right of the wall. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Pockets Sitstart | Climb the pockets on the far right of the wall. | Edit | Delete | |
| Long John's Stride (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 5 |
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Niche Slab | On the leftmost buttress climb the slabby arete and wall above. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Impish | Climb the protruding arete. Highball. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A+ |
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Imp Wall | The wall just right of the arete on slopers. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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Long John's Arete | Just right of the buttress right of Impish. Climb the hanging arete from a sit start. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A |
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Erganweasel | Follow the graffiti across the block from a sit start on the right, keep low until a high step leads to the top just left of the arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A |
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Eros | Sit start the fridge shaped block that is just below the niche. | Edit | Delete | |
| Big Belle Vue Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7A (soft) |
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Belle Vue Traverse | Start from the crack and make strange moves to cross the arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| Lonely Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 6A |
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Knitted Hat Of Love | The arete on its right hand side. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Sunset Crack | Straight up the middle of the slab aiming for the obvious chickenhead. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5 |
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MGB | The right hand side of the slab. Usually a bit mucky. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5+ |
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Fudgeywudge | The left hand side of the arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A |
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Milliewillie | Tackle the shallow groove from as low as you can. | Edit | Delete | |
| Upper Tier (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 6B |
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Dim up North | Sit start laybacking the crack and follow this to the top, with the help of the flake halfway up. | Edit | Delete | |
| Puttrell's Progress (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 6B+ |
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Anzio Breakout | Can be highballed at about 6B+. Good campus moves on flat holds. | Edit | Delete | |
- AAS sent Sneaky Little Fingers, Opposite Outlook Roof, Wharncliffe, date: Saturday 13 Apr 2019, details
- Dale_n sent Sneaky Little Fingers, Opposite Outlook Roof, Wharncliffe, date: Saturday 03 Oct 2015, details
- r-man sent Slab and the Beanstalk, Opposite Outlook Roof, Wharncliffe, date: Friday 01 Feb 2008, details
- r-man sent Sneaky Little Fingers, Opposite Outlook Roof, Wharncliffe, date: Friday 01 Feb 2008, details
- AAS sent Pete's Route, Outlook Roof, Wharncliffe, date: Date not known, details
Latest Problem Updates:
- Sneaky Little Fingers, Opposite Outlook Roof, Wharncliffe updated on 13/04/2019 at 10:56PM
- Anzio Breakout, Puttrell's Progress, Wharncliffe updated on 26/02/2019 at 11:05AM
- Face Wall, Hell Gate Gully Area, Wharncliffe updated on 13/02/2019 at 01:05PM
- Up To A Point, Hell Gate Gully Area, Wharncliffe updated on 13/02/2019 at 01:05PM
- Dinosaur Egg Arete, Hell Gate Gully Area, Wharncliffe updated on 13/02/2019 at 01:05PM
- Sorry, Hell Gate Gully Area, Wharncliffe updated on 08/02/2019 at 10:12AM
- Pete's Route, Outlook Roof, Wharncliffe updated on 01/01/2019 at 10:19PM
- Dim up North, Upper Tier, Wharncliffe updated on 14/03/2017 at 12:38AM
- Fudgeywudge, Lonely Boulder, Wharncliffe updated on 13/03/2017 at 09:21PM
- Milliewillie, Lonely Boulder, Wharncliffe updated on 13/03/2017 at 09:21PM
- Pointy Block Problem, Hell Gate Gully Area, Wharncliffe updated on 13/03/2017 at 09:03PM
- There's No Point, Hell Gate Gully Area, Wharncliffe updated on 13/03/2017 at 09:03PM
- Not Sorry, Hell Gate Gully Area, Wharncliffe updated on 13/03/2017 at 09:03PM
- Butterfly Crack, Hell Gate Gully Area, Wharncliffe updated on 13/03/2017 at 02:10AM
- The Cardinal, Hell Gate Gully Area, Wharncliffe updated on 13/03/2017 at 02:10AM
- House Music, Hell Gate Gully Area, Wharncliffe updated on 13/03/2017 at 02:10AM
- MGB, Lonely Boulder, Wharncliffe updated on 13/03/2017 at 01:44AM
- Knitted Hat Of Love, Lonely Boulder, Wharncliffe updated on 13/03/2017 at 01:41AM
- Sunset Crack, Lonely Boulder, Wharncliffe updated on 13/03/2017 at 01:36AM
- Eros, Long John's Stride, Wharncliffe updated on 13/03/2017 at 12:35AM
- Terry Tibbs, Outlook Roof, Wharncliffe updated on 26/09/2013 at 12:16AM
- Lembas Arete, Opposite Outlook Roof, Wharncliffe updated on 26/09/2013 at 12:13AM
- Erganweasel, Long John's Stride, Wharncliffe updated on 26/09/2013 at 12:00AM
- Lembas, Opposite Outlook Roof, Wharncliffe updated on 14/12/2012 at 01:56AM
- Lembas arete, Opposite Outlook Roof, Wharncliffe updated on 14/12/2012 at 01:56AM
- Belle Vue Traverse, Big Belle Vue Boulder, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 03:57PM
- Hard Mantel, Outlook Roof, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 03:56PM
- Easy Way, Dragon's Den, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 03:55PM
- Jorge Jr, Dragon's Den, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 03:55PM
- Slab Centre, Slab and Crazy Legs, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 01:16PM
- Crazy Legs Crane, Slab and Crazy Legs, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 01:16PM
- The Parson's Finch, Slab and Crazy Legs, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 01:16PM
- Pixie's Arete, Opposite Outlook Roof, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 01:16PM
- Curvaceous, Lodge Buttress, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 01:15PM
- Jellyeyes (strict), Jellyeyes Wall, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 01:14PM
- Jellyeyes, Jellyeyes Wall, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 01:14PM
- Fishboy, Fishboy Cave, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 01:14PM
- Blunted, Dragon's Den, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 01:14PM
- Blunted (Strict), Dragon's Den, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 01:14PM
- Sweet Release, Dragon's Den, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 01:13PM
- Sweet Move, Dragon's Den, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 01:13PM
- The Dragon's Den, Dragon's Den, Wharncliffe updated on 24/11/2010 at 01:11PM
- Niche Slab, Long John's Stride, Wharncliffe updated on 07/10/2010 at 08:54AM
- Impish, Long John's Stride, Wharncliffe updated on 07/10/2010 at 08:08AM
- Imp Wall, Long John's Stride, Wharncliffe updated on 07/10/2010 at 08:07AM
- Long John's Arete, Long John's Stride, Wharncliffe updated on 07/10/2010 at 08:06AM
- Sushi, Fishboy Cave, Wharncliffe updated on 05/10/2010 at 02:17PM
- Sushi Low, Fishboy Cave, Wharncliffe updated on 05/10/2010 at 02:12PM
- Slab and the Beanstalk, Opposite Outlook Roof, Wharncliffe updated on 05/10/2010 at 02:10PM
- Pockets Sitstart, Lower Wall, Wharncliffe updated on 05/10/2010 at 01:57PM
