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Birchen - Gritstone
Description: The Kraken Wakes 5+/6a SDS (low) with feet on back of small cave right of Orlop, just right of where the obvious long overlap finishes, L hand on obvious wide pinch, R hand on engraved 'triangle', just right of other engraved indistinct letters. Make difficult moves straight up using both left and right decent pockets, finish with mantle on top (via small tips pocket). (FA 4/08/15, Chris Welsh)
Access: where: Birchen Edge, The Three Ships, Royal Soverin.
Ascents: Show recent ascents.
Updates: Show latest updates.
Top 10 problems: (view all problems)
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Hornblower (6C+) -
Thing on a Spring (7A)
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Technical Genius (7A) -
Kiss Me Arsee (7A) -
MP3 (7B)
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Dan's Arete (6C)
All problems: (view only the best problems)
| Nelson's Slab (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7A+ |
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Iron Eye | Beneath the route Nelson's Slab climb the roof/lip right to left. Starting on the plinth with hands in two big pocket undercuts, then climb the lip and pocketed roof all the way i.e. keeping feet off the back wall. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B |
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Iron Eyes | Harder better version of the line. Starting from same undercuts as Iron Eye and sat on the plinth, do the problem with feet in the roof (i.e. not on the plinth or back wall) | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Nelson’s slab direct sit-start plinth eliminate | Sit-start under the roof at the base of the route Nelson's Slab Direct. Climb through the roof to gain the crack and up that. Eliminating the large plinth to the right only using footholds on the back wall and roof. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Colder Compass | A low start to the bouldery start of the route Cold Compass (E2 6b) on the north wall of Sail Buttress. Start under the roof in a break. Stretch out and climb the hanging groove to finish at the break. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Scuttlebutt | On the front face of Sail Buttress (i.e. the front face of the Colder Compass buttress) is an undercut nose leading to a wide break. Climb the right arete of the nose starting up its left side on slopers. | Edit | Delete | |
| Hornblower Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7A+ |
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Gritstone Mashupmix | The left-hand finish to Gritstone Megamix traverses the lip of the roof to the arete, then finishes upwards. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Gritstone Megamix | The imposing roof on the left is a reachy highball. Follow small pockets through the roof to a flake. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B+ (soft) |
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HMS Daring | The arete right of Gritstone Megamix, on its left. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B+ |
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Splendide Audax | The arete on its right, with a hard deadpoint to the pocket in the crack. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Thing on a Spring | The wall left of the chock-filled offwidth. Sitstart from undercut pockets to reach a rail. Spring to the top thing. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B+ |
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Oarsman Arete | Climb the arete and crack. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Oarsman Arete Sitstart | Crouch under the roof and work up the arete and crack. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B+ (hard) |
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Oarsman | Climb the crack right of the arete. No arete, and no footblock left of the crack. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A+ |
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Oarsman Sitstart | Climb the crack right of the arete. No arete, and no footblock left of the crack. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Oar 'Ouse | The wall between Hornblower and Oarsman, starting with right hand in the finger jam. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Traverse into Hornblower | From the left arete, traverse low holds into Hornblower. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C+ |
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Hornblower | Climb the tricky wall just left of the arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A+ (hard) |
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Obstructive Pensioner | Starting at the break, climb the bulge above a slightly worrying landing. Good use of the left hand gaston aids progress. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C+ |
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Jumpers for Trousers | The wall right of Obstructive Pensioner. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4 (soft) |
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Flake | The flake on the right of the buttress makes a good warm up. | Edit | Delete | |
| Technical Genius (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7A |
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Kiss Me Arsee | Sitstart the arete of the block left of Technical Genius. Can be done without the large foothold low on the right, but this only adds half a grade. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Dan's Arete | Square arete left of Scrim Net, from sitting (no footblocks). Pull on using a heel and slap to the arete jug, then go for the top. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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Monocled Mono | Wall between the aretes via a pocket to a rounded exit | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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Kiss Me Softly | Sitstart the right arete of the block. Slightly easier if you grab the top boulder to top out. Watch out for the pointy landing. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Roger the Cabin Boy | Use a variety of techniques to climb the left arete of the Technical Genius Wall, from sitting, using any holds you can reach. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A+ |
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Technical Genius Sitstart | Start as per Roger the Cabin Boy, then finish as per the standup. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Technical Genius | Match the bulbous flake, then power up to slopers and a precarious finish. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C+ |
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The Lash | Sit start at the left arête. Pull up right into the big side pulls of Technical Genius then continue right along the lip to pull up the rounded bulging arête on the right. From the break, continue up easy ground to ledges | Edit | Delete | |
| The Cabin (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 4 |
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Sling Your Hammock | Full body bridging the cabin leads to the tower's summit | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A |
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Left Arete | The left arete of the quarried wall. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Cabin Boy | On the quarried wall, dyno from very thin crimps in the break to the top. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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The Cabin | Climb just right of Cabin boy, using a sidepull. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5 |
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Right Arete | Edit | Delete | ||
| 6C |
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Scraping the Barrel | Down from the Cabin, and just up from Dan's Arete, is a very small wall. Crimp up the left hand side from a sitstart matched on the large edge. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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Wringing the Barrel | Right of Wringing the Barrel, sitstart from matched on the low ledge, with feet down in the gully. Climb the wall on its right. | Edit | Delete | |
| Chasing the Dragon Delete | ||||||
| Copenhagen Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 6B |
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Scandiarete SS | The sitter has a tricky pull on | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B+ |
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Carlsberg Export | Climb the wall right of Dane's Disgust, eliminating juggy flakes and pockets. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5 |
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Dane's Disgust | Right of Dane's Delight, use the flake. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5 |
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Dane's Delight | Pull between the breaks. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4 |
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Copenhagen Corner | Start the sidewall on its right and climb via flakes. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A |
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Scandiarete | The left arete on its right. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C |
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The Mermaid | Sitstart the roof from an obvious jug. Span to worn sloper at the lip. From here, pull up and left to a large polished hold, then move left to a poor gastony pinch (thumb on gaston), tough slap to poor slopers and continue left to finish up the route "danes delight". | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B |
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MP3 | Start as for Mermaid, then make a big move with feet low (left in pocket under roof and right on starting jug) up left to a crack/pod thing with right hand. This leads you nicely into the starting position for the route 'copenhagen wall'. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C+ (soft) |
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Chasing the Dragon | On the undercut slabby boulder somewhere beneath Copenhagen Wall (and facing Baslow). Sitstart undercutting the left end of a long pod below the lip. Traverse right to the end of the pod and dyno rightwards for a flake. Finish up the right arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| The Brigand (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 5+ (soft) |
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Men United | There is a pinnacle down and right of The Brigand. Climb the arete on its right. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C (hard) |
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Sodomy | On the slabby wall to the right, traverse the undercut lip leftwards via pockets. Finish upwards before the crack. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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The Buccaneer | Climb the block on the right and lean across the corner 3m up, to gain a slopey pocket (and a crack if you can). From here, pull up the wall to good holds. Highball with a dodgy landing. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C+ |
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Lowside | Sitstart the arete to the left, first gaining crimps on te lip, then the flake to the left. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4+ |
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Seasick Arete | The polished arete | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A |
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Midge's Manouvre start | Just above Men United, start on the slab and move onto the obvious pillar finishing at the break. No boulder on the left. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C+ |
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The Brigand | The direct start to The Buccaneer, with woeful holds. The crux is low, passing the overlap to gain the poor pocket and bottomless crack of the standup. A cheat stone may be needed for shorties. | Edit | Delete | |
| 8A+ |
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Anchor Management | The overlap and wall Between the arete of Lowside and mystery of The Brigand. Stand start on 2 undercuts and climb up a series of poor ripples to a sloping pocket. Finish up the arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| Far Left (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 6C |
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Howships Lacunae | Sitstart to Saltheart Foamfollower, from a pocket. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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The Pirate | Climb the highball bulge right of Poop Deck Crack. | Edit | Delete | |
| Three Ships (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 5+ (hard) |
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The Kraken Wakes | The Kraken Wakes 5+/6a (soft)SDS (low) with feet on back of small cave right of Orlop, just right of where the obvious long overlap finishes, L hand on obvious wide pinch, R hand on engraved 'triangle', just right of other engraved indistinct letters. Make difficult moves straight up using both left and right decent pockets, finish with mantle on top (via small tips pocket). (FA 4/08/15, Chris Welsh) | Edit | Delete | |
- Gareth sent Sodomy, The Brigand, Birchen, date: Saturday 13 Dec 2014, details
- Gareth sent HMS Daring, Hornblower Wall, Birchen, date: Saturday 13 Dec 2014, details
- Gareth sent Oarsman, Hornblower Wall, Birchen, date: Saturday 13 Dec 2014, details
- Gareth sent Hornblower, Hornblower Wall, Birchen, date: Saturday 13 Dec 2014, details
- Gareth sent Obstructive Pensioner, Hornblower Wall, Birchen, date: Saturday 13 Dec 2014, details
- highrepute sent Kiss Me Arsee, Technical Genius, Birchen, date: Friday 15 Mar 2013, details
- highrepute sent Technical Genius, Technical Genius, Birchen, date: Friday 15 Mar 2013, details
- Yoof sent Sling Your Hammock, The Cabin, Birchen, date: Tuesday 24 Apr 2012, details
- Yoof sent Men United, The Brigand, Birchen, date: Tuesday 24 Apr 2012, details
- Yoof sent Seasick Arete, The Brigand, Birchen, date: Tuesday 24 Apr 2012, details
- Yoof sent Hornblower, Hornblower Wall, Birchen, date: Mar 2012, details
- nai sent MP3, Copenhagen Wall, Birchen, date: Thursday 19 Jan 2012, details
- nai sent Technical Genius, Technical Genius, Birchen, date: Thursday 19 Jan 2012, details
- r-man sent Oarsman Sitstart, Hornblower Wall, Birchen, date: Tuesday 10 Jan 2012, details
- nai sent Kiss Me Arsee, Technical Genius, Birchen, date: Friday 04 Mar 2011, details
- nai sent The Cabin, The Cabin, Birchen, date: Friday 04 Mar 2011, details
- nai sent Hornblower, Hornblower Wall, Birchen, date: Friday 04 Mar 2011, details
- highrepute sent MP3, Copenhagen Wall, Birchen, date: Wednesday 16 Feb 2011, details
- Gareth sent Gritstone Megamix, Hornblower Wall, Birchen, date: Sunday 06 Feb 2011, details
- Gareth sent MP3, Copenhagen Wall, Birchen, date: Sunday 06 Feb 2011, details
Latest Problem Updates:
- Technical Genius, Technical Genius, Birchen updated on 03/01/2017 at 03:34PM
- Kiss Me Softly, Technical Genius, Birchen updated on 03/01/2017 at 03:34PM
- Roger the Cabin Boy, Technical Genius, Birchen updated on 03/01/2017 at 03:34PM
- Technical Genius Sitstart, Technical Genius, Birchen updated on 03/01/2017 at 03:34PM
- Monocled Mono, Technical Genius, Birchen updated on 03/01/2017 at 03:34PM
- The Lash, Technical Genius, Birchen updated on 03/01/2017 at 03:34PM
- Nelson’s slab direct sit-start plinth eliminate, Nelson's Slab, Birchen updated on 01/02/2016 at 01:28PM
- Iron Eye, Nelson's Slab, Birchen updated on 01/02/2016 at 01:25PM
- Colder Compass, Nelson's Slab, Birchen updated on 01/02/2016 at 01:25PM
- Iron Eyes, Nelson's Slab, Birchen updated on 01/02/2016 at 01:25PM
- Scuttlebutt, Nelson's Slab, Birchen updated on 01/02/2016 at 01:25PM
- The Kraken Wakes, Three Ships, Birchen updated on 31/08/2015 at 11:55AM
- Hornblower, Hornblower Wall, Birchen updated on 23/01/2015 at 12:19AM
- Sodomy, The Brigand, Birchen updated on 14/12/2014 at 11:03AM
- Obstructive Pensioner, Hornblower Wall, Birchen updated on 14/12/2014 at 10:58AM
- Oarsman, Hornblower Wall, Birchen updated on 14/12/2014 at 10:55AM
- HMS Daring, Hornblower Wall, Birchen updated on 14/12/2014 at 10:54AM
- Anchor Management, The Brigand, Birchen updated on 10/11/2014 at 02:06PM
- Oar 'Ouse, Hornblower Wall, Birchen updated on 18/02/2013 at 08:52AM
- Dane's Delight, Copenhagen Wall, Birchen updated on 18/02/2013 at 08:50AM
- Scandiarete SS, Copenhagen Wall, Birchen updated on 18/02/2013 at 08:50AM
- Seasick Arete, The Brigand, Birchen updated on 24/04/2012 at 08:22PM
- Midge's Manouvre start, The Brigand, Birchen updated on 24/04/2012 at 08:20PM
- Men United, The Brigand, Birchen updated on 24/04/2012 at 08:15PM
- Sling Your Hammock, The Cabin, Birchen updated on 24/04/2012 at 08:13PM
- Cabin Boy, The Cabin, Birchen updated on 24/04/2012 at 08:12PM
- MP3, Copenhagen Wall, Birchen updated on 19/01/2012 at 05:16PM
- Oarsman Sitstart, Hornblower Wall, Birchen updated on 10/01/2012 at 05:22PM
- The Brigand, The Brigand, Birchen updated on 05/09/2011 at 05:20PM
- The Buccaneer, The Brigand, Birchen updated on 05/09/2011 at 05:18PM
- Lowside, The Brigand, Birchen updated on 05/09/2011 at 05:18PM
- Scandiarete, Copenhagen Wall, Birchen updated on 05/09/2011 at 05:05PM
- Copenhagen Corner, Copenhagen Wall, Birchen updated on 05/09/2011 at 05:05PM
- Dane's Disgust, Copenhagen Wall, Birchen updated on 05/09/2011 at 05:03PM
- Carlsberg Export, Copenhagen Wall, Birchen updated on 05/09/2011 at 05:03PM
- The Mermaid, Copenhagen Wall, Birchen updated on 05/09/2011 at 05:02PM
- The Cabin, The Cabin, Birchen updated on 04/03/2011 at 09:24PM
- Kiss Me Arsee, Technical Genius, Birchen updated on 04/03/2011 at 09:22PM
- Thing on a Spring, Hornblower Wall, Birchen updated on 07/02/2011 at 07:36PM
- Gritstone Megamix, Hornblower Wall, Birchen updated on 07/02/2011 at 07:34PM
- Chasing the Dragon, Copenhagen Wall, Birchen updated on 16/09/2010 at 05:09PM
- Dan's Arete, Technical Genius, Birchen updated on 16/09/2010 at 05:06PM
- Jumpers for Trousers, Hornblower Wall, Birchen updated on 16/09/2010 at 05:06PM
- Splendide Audax, Hornblower Wall, Birchen updated on 16/09/2010 at 05:05PM
- Flake, Hornblower Wall, Birchen updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:27PM
- Scraping the Barrel, The Cabin, Birchen updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:27PM
- Wringing the Barrel, The Cabin, Birchen updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:27PM
- Left Arete, The Cabin, Birchen updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:27PM
- Right Arete, The Cabin, Birchen updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:27PM
- The Pirate, Far Left, Birchen updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:27PM
