Hide
Description: One of the Peak's premiere venues hosts a deceptively large selection of problems. The quick-drying Trackside boulder is close to the road and ever popular. Gorilla Warfare and the Bad Landing boulder are home to steep linkups and power problems, and satellite areas tempt with the classics of Ben's Wall, Walk on By and Sean's Arete. However, there is much more to be found. A stroll along the edge will reveal The Art of White Hat Wearing, Bruno Mindhorn, Cloud Cuckoo Land, Big Friday and more...
Access: None.
Ascents: Show recent ascents.
Updates: Show latest updates.
Cioch Top Boulders (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7C |
|
![]() |
Big Friday | Highball wall on a recessed wall right of the main Cioch Buttress, left of the route Lithuania | Edit | Delete |
6A |
|
![]() |
Hopper | On the far right end of the Cioch Buttress area of the crag. 15m right of Big Friday. A nice flaky bookend arete, right of a corner | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
|
![]() |
Crispy Roof | Up by the edge is a prominent leaning boulder with a steep flaky south face. This prob climbs a line of crimps 1m right of the left arete. | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
|
![]() |
Crispy Rib | Up by the edge is a prominent leaning boulder with a steep flaky south face. The left slanting right arete of the block to finish at the apex has a long move to gain a big jug | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
|
![]() |
Crispy Noodling | Up by the edge is a prominent leaning boulder with a steep flaky south face. The best problem on the block. Start 1m left of the right arete and climb direct to the apex with a tricky move to gain a sloper on the arete. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
|
![]() |
Mister Spock | 5m right of Crispy Roof is a mini buttress. Climb the highball left arete with a reachy start | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
|
![]() |
Uhuru | Just right of Mister Spock, use a crimp on the lip to stretch right to a sloping ledge | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
|
![]() |
Crunchy Nut Crack | 30m below Crispy Roof is a similar block, but even bigger and crunchier. Gain the hanging crack on the left direct | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
|
![]() |
Crunchy Nut Crack SS | A sit start on the arete to the hanging crack. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
|
![]() |
Petit Jesu | 30m below Crispy Roof is a similar block, but even bigger and crunchier. The steepness is taken direct just right of centre starting on a huge jug. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Petit Jesu Assis | The sit start is spoiled a bit by a dabby block. | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
|
![]() |
Mister Spock SS | Sit start on the shelf to the right | Edit | Delete |
6A |
|
![]() |
Boots in the Woods | The overhanging fin left of Cioch Butress via slappy moves. | Edit | Delete |
Mini Walls (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A (soft) |
|
![]() |
Seams Simple Enough | Climb the slab via an easy looking seam. | Edit | Delete |
Trackside (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
|
![]() |
Mantel Problem | Just left of the arete, mantel past the slot. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
|
![]() |
Tracking | From the left arete, traverse the slopey break rightwards to finish up Strawberries. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
|
![]() |
Tracking Strict | No Crack for feet near end. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
|
![]() |
Tracking into Trackside | Continue traversing to finish up Trackside. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
|
![]() |
Pocket Problem | Follow the pockets to the top. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
|
![]() |
Wall Problem | Straight up, right of the pockets. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
|
![]() |
Wall Problem Low Start | From the low break, power upwards. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
|
![]() |
Strawberries | The tricksome wall left of the crack, starting from thin seams. | Edit | Delete |
4+ (soft) |
|
![]() |
Wide Crack | ...is a wide crack. | Edit | Delete |
7C (hard) |
|
![]() |
Play Hard | From the two handed sloper, climb the wall right of the crack. | Edit | Delete |
8A+ |
|
![]() |
Work Hard | Direct up the centre of the slabby wall. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Sloper Deadpoint High Start | Climb left of the crack, with a deadpoint from the sidepull and sloper blob. Prior to ground level changes, the sloper was too high for many people to start from. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
|
![]() |
Sloper Deadpoint Low Start | Pull on with left hand sidepull, right hand low. Gain the sloper and continue as for the high start. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
|
![]() |
Crack and Pocket | Climb the crack on its left, using everything within reach. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Trackside | Climb the right arete on its left. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Sidetrack | The easiest version is also the tall person's solution. Reach high up the arete to start. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ (hard) |
|
![]() |
Sidetrack (strict) | Eliminate the footblock to make the problem slightly harder and less reach dependant. | Edit | Delete |
Gorilla Warfare (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7C+ |
|
![]() |
Hurricane sitstart | Climb into the standup from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Back doors | Sit start to the north facing side of the gorilla warfare block. No arĂȘtes but moving up into cracks as undercuts and high hold up and right below right arĂȘte. Finish on top of block left. Spicy landing | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Back doors | Sit start to the north facing side of the gorilla warfare block. No arĂȘtes but moving up into cracks as undercuts and high hold up and right below right arĂȘte. Finish on top of block left. Spicy landing | Edit | Delete |
4+ |
|
![]() |
Offwidth | The wide crack from sitting. Awkward Crack from a low start | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Gorilla Warfare | From the off-width, traverse right to finish above the block. | Edit | Delete |
7A (hard) |
|
![]() |
Extended Warfare | Extend Gorilla Warfare to finish up the right arete, on its right. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
|
![]() |
Original Warfare | Start at the left end of the face. Traverse the lip of the block to the offwidth. Reverse this to the start of Gorilla Warfare. Follow Extended Warfare to the arete but pull round low, into the wide diagonal crack. From this make a big span to the far arete, and finish up this. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
|
![]() |
Hurricane | From slopers right of the off-width, make a big move for the top. Holding it is the crux. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
|
![]() |
Jihad | From the off-width, gain the slopers used on Hurricane, then launch up and right for the Early Doors sloper. Finish up this. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
|
![]() |
Early Doors | From the off-width, traverse rightwards a few moves, then finish upwards via large slopers. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
|
![]() |
Humpin' | Sitstart the overhanging right arete of the block, using the polished foothold as a left hand pinch. The crack is off limits. Finish leftwards up Gorilla Warfare. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
|
![]() |
Reverse Traverse | From a sitstart on the jug rail round the right arete, reverse Extended Warfare and continue into Early Doors. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
|
![]() |
Dennis | Immediately right of the off width. Pull on with a thin pinch for the LH and the Hurricane ramp for the RH. Dyno to the top. | Edit | Delete |
Bad Landing (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7C |
|
![]() |
Reload Your Weapons | From the Le Musee jug, traverse left past the arete to match the big sidepull and finish up the groove. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
|
![]() |
Drop Your Weapons | Start matched on the big sidepull in the groove. Move right to the arete sloper and drop (your weapons) down to the lip. Follow this and finish up the 7A. The seperate low block used by Late Junction is not used for this problem. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
|
![]() |
Right Turn | Start matched on the slanting hold. Traverse right to pull over the ledge. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
|
![]() |
BB's Traverse | From the central lip jug, traverse right to the end of the boulder (finishing as for Right Turn). | Edit | Delete |
7C (soft) |
|
![]() |
Snow Child | As per Drop Your Weapons, but finish up Detox - less pumpy and a less scary finish. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ (hard) |
|
![]() |
Late Junction Left Hand | Finish up Detox - a less scary exit. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ (soft) |
|
![]() |
Detox | Sitstart as per Huffy's Roof (see the strict starting rules of that problem), but at the lip, move left and rockover via sidepulls to finish. As per Huffy's roof, many of the videos on the web miss out the crux by starting 2 or 3 moves in... | Edit | Delete |
7B |
|
![]() |
Late Junction | Sitstart with hands matched on the block beneath the left end of the Bad Landing boulder. Pull out to the lip and traverse right to the jug. Finish straight up as for the Lip Start problem. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
|
![]() |
Grooved Arete Left | The left arete. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
|
![]() |
Grooved Arete ?? | The right hand side of the grooved arete. May be harder now start is lower. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ (hard) |
|
![]() |
Le Musee Imaginaire | From the lip start jug, traverse left to finish up the arete. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
|
![]() |
Le Musee Imaginaire Extension | Link Huffy's Roof into Le Musee Imaginaire. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ (soft) |
|
![]() |
Huffy's Roof | Sitstart under the roof (one thin pad and in the pit, NOT on the large flat boulder) with right hand undercutting the pocket and left hand higher up the feature. Finish up Bad Landing Lip Start. Many of the videos on the web miss out the crux by starting two or three moves in (which, for clarity, is not this problem!). | Edit | Delete |
8A+ |
|
![]() |
Supersize Me | From a sitstart matched on the obvious undercut at the back, power into Huffy's Roof and keep on going. A super burly extension. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Bad Lip | From the jug on the lip, do the upwards thing. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
|
![]() |
Left Turn | Start matched on the slanting hold. Work up and left to gain the finish of the 7A. | Edit | Delete |
Ben's Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7C+ (soft) |
|
![]() |
Greater White | Climb Great White and keep going straight up to the top, with a long reach from the big pocket to get a high sloper and mantle up. not much harder but quite technical and scary. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
|
![]() |
Kissing The Pig | Traverse the tiny overhang, from sitting on the far right, to the left end of the block and mantle to finish. | Edit | Delete |
6B (hard) |
|
![]() |
Tiny Overhang | Facing Ben's Wall is a small overhanging block. Sitstart this from the low hold. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
|
![]() |
Wall Traverse | From the left arete, traverse right to finish up the ramp. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
|
![]() |
Pebble Wall | Climb the left arete. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
|
![]() |
Ben's Wall | Climb the left-hand side of the wall, finishing by moving out left to the shoulder on the arete. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
|
![]() |
Great White | Climb the right-hand side of the wall, finishing at a big pocket. | Edit | Delete |
Gorilla Warfare Slab (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
|
![]() |
Eh Andre | Climb the slab left of Dan's wall, without using the right hand sidepull or arete. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
|
![]() |
New Slab | Climb the slab left of Dan's Wall, using the right hand sidepull and arete. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
|
![]() |
The Arete | ...is an important concept in Gk. philosophy, "virtue, excellence," lit. "that which is good." The comp. form is areion, the superl. is aristos (cf. aristocracy). | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Dan's Wall | Sitstart the hanging arete, without the block. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
|
![]() |
The Slab | ...is slabby. | Edit | Delete |
4 (soft) |
|
![]() |
The Groove | ...is groovy. | Edit | Delete |
Veale Thing (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B |
|
![]() |
Veale Thing | The left hand arete. E2. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Back Wall Right Hand | Pull on small crimps to reach a good hold at the right hand side of the face opposite Gorilla Warfare. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
|
![]() |
S-Crack Slap | Pull on with the "S-crack" left hand hold and right hand on a crimp further right. Bowl over to hit the jug. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Right of S-Crack | Climb the wall left of the arete. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
|
![]() |
Baby-belle | Start on the jug (finishing hold of S-Crack Slap), traverse right and finish up the left side of the arete. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
|
![]() |
Right Arete | Climb the tall right arete, on its right. | Edit | Delete |
Mini Prow Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B |
|
![]() |
Mini Traverse | From the back, traverse round the front to finish up the prow. | Edit | Delete |
3 |
|
![]() |
Mini Arete | Edit | Delete | |
4 (hard) |
|
![]() |
Mini Crack | Edit | Delete | |
5 (hard) |
|
![]() |
Mini Prow | First climbed by a small car. | Edit | Delete |
Sean's Arete (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B |
|
![]() |
Ramboid | On the crag itself, directly underneath the groove of Janus. Mantel onto a slippy triangular ledgelet just above head-height. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
|
![]() |
Janus Start | The rib right of Ramboid. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
|
![]() |
Spray Mane | On the wall left of Sean's problem is a big dyno from pockets, above the pointy block. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
|
![]() |
Sean's Arete | The left side of the arete next to the route Maupasssant, with the crux sticking the slopey break (finish). | Edit | Delete |
Not a Jerry Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ |
|
![]() |
Not a Jerry Traverse | Traverse the length of the boulder along the low break. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
|
![]() |
Not a Problem For Jerry | From low, pull up slopers on the right hand side of the face. | Edit | Delete |
Beneath The Edge (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C+ |
|
![]() |
The Green Mile | Mission along the track a long way past Trackside and Ben's Wall. Staying right at junctions [not obvious] brings you to this boulder. The Green Mile climbs the left arete from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
6C (hard) |
|
![]() |
The Ultimate Gritstone Experience | Hug both aretes from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
|
![]() |
Touch Winky | The right arete from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Tickle it | Right side of Touch Winky arete from a sit start, using the arete for the left hand. Was very dirty, possible first ascent. | Edit | Delete |
7B (soft) |
|
![]() |
Bruno Mindhorn | About 60 metres right of, and beneath the route Slackers is a low roof. Start on a jug in the roof and finish up the arete. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ (hard) |
|
![]() |
Break out the Trumpets | The steep arete beneath Bruno Mindhorn. | Edit | Delete |
6C (soft) |
|
![]() |
Turtle Back | The leaning block to the right of the ultimate gritstone experience. Start low, no footblocks and follow lip to arete and mantel on to slab. (could do with a better clean) good line. | Edit | Delete |
Far Left Edge (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A (soft) |
|
![]() |
Marx's Wall | At the far left end of the crag is a wide crack facing Froggatt. Climb the wall left of this from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
|
![]() |
Scouse's Wall | Edit | Delete | |
7B (hard) |
|
![]() |
The Art of White Hat Wearing | Climb the high quarried rib. A problem in the style of West Side Story with balancy climbing leading to a spooky lunge for the top. Now sporting a greatly improved terraced landing. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
|
![]() |
The Art of Jimmy Hat Wearing | The scrittly wall just right of The Art of White Hat wearing. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ (hard) |
|
![]() |
Be Somebody or Be Somebody's Fool | Edit | Delete | |
End Of The Affair Area (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B |
|
![]() |
The Start of the Affair | On the steep wall below Moon Buttress, just left of the obvious groove climb from breaks to short thin cracks and the top | Edit | Delete |
5+ (hard) |
|
![]() |
Left Eliminette | The steep groove on the wall below Moon Buttress | Edit | Delete |
6A (soft) |
|
![]() |
Button Moon | Blind flake and pocket to edges and break | Edit | Delete |
6C (soft) |
|
![]() |
Last Light | Wall right of Rat Scabies, reach the hold in the middle of the wall then make a hard move for the break. | Edit | Delete |
6A+ (hard) |
|
![]() |
The Unreachable Star | The tenuous crack has a sketchy move to the break. Very highball (E2 6a) | Edit | Delete |
6B (soft) |
|
![]() |
The Dog's Hole | The thin crack up from the hole, to the right of Dog Crack and The Unreachable Star | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
|
![]() |
Rat Scabies | Pull up the wall via the head-height undercut. Mantle over the bulge, then jump off. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
I'll Be Bob | Just left of Ulysses or Bust (the arete left of Unreachable Star) in the recess is a tall phallic pillar. Monkey up the shaft to a tricky exit. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
|
![]() |
Trouser Jazz | Thin seam up the slab between Dogleg Crack and The Dog's Hole | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
|
![]() |
Slopey Wall | Behind End of the Affair is a broad open gully, which is easiest approached from above. The rounded upper wall of the gully can be climbed anywhere at around 6b to 6c. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
|
![]() |
Cloud Arete | The arete left of Cloud Cuckoo Land from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
|
![]() |
Cloud Cuckoo Land | Behind End of the Affair is a broad open gully, which is easiest approached from above. This climbs the centre of the lower wall, above blocks, from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
|
![]() |
Clouded Judgement | The wall just right of Cloud Cuckoo Land from sitting via mono to gain ramp with and top out direct | Edit | Delete |
8A |
|
![]() |
Never Spanned | Start as for Clouded Judgement, but gain the mono with the left hand. Use this to rock over and lurch/dead point jump out right for a good sidepull just left of the arĂȘte, then top out using the arĂȘte above. The landing is a bit of a shocker so pads are useful. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
|
![]() |
The Arse of Japan | A lefthand/direct variation of Art of Japan. A tricky eliminate slapping for the edge on the standard problem from two opposing flat undercuts on the left (eliminates undercuts further right) | Edit | Delete |
6C |
|
![]() |
Art of Japan | An obscure John Allen classic. Up the middle of the north wall of a block set high on the edge, right of Apollo butress. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
|
![]() |
Talon Man Dyno | Flake to ledge dyno upwall between the start of Baron's Wall and Smoke On't Watter | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
|
![]() |
Downhill Gardener | Edit | Delete | |
Walk on By Quarry (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7C+ |
|
![]() |
Walk on By | At the right end of the crag is a smooth white quarry. Climb the wall above the right end of the raised ledge. Repeated since hold breakage, no change in grade. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
|
![]() |
Small Arete | From sitting, climb the small arete in the middle of the bay. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Dora's drop-off | To the right of Old Codger (on the opposite side of the quarry from Walk on by). Starting from a flake, climb your way up using sidepulls, holds in the high break and final crack, and a bit of cunning footwork. Spicy finish. | Edit | Delete |
Curbar Corner (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
|
![]() |
Neat | The left arete of the corner | Edit | Delete |
5 |
|
![]() |
Curbar Corner | Bridging up the excellent corner. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
|
![]() |
Little Stiffer | The right arete of the corner on its left hand side. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
|
![]() |
Jamie and His Magic Torch | The right arete of the corner on its right hand side. Balancey, with a tricky deadpoint to a sloper high on the arete. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
|
![]() |
Jamie and His Magic Torch SS | The arete but from sitting adds a lot more climbing. Don't push your pads up to wall or they'll get in the way. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
|
![]() |
Jamie and His Magic Torch SS | The arete but from sitting adds a lot more climbing. Don't push your pads up to wall or they'll get in the way. | Edit | Delete |
The Loafstone (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6A+ |
|
![]() |
Aldi | Go left from flake. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
|
![]() |
Sourdough | Straight up from flakes behind the tree | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Bread and Circuses | The arete | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
|
![]() |
Half Baked | Edit | Delete | |
6A+ |
|
![]() |
Netto | Edit | Delete | |
6B |
|
![]() |
Focaccia in the Rye | Edit | Delete | |
6B+ |
|
![]() |
Oh Crumbs! | Edit | Delete | |
6A+ |
|
![]() |
Pan Rustic | Edit | Delete | |
5 |
|
![]() |
Milk Roll | The right arete of the block | Edit | Delete |
4 |
|
![]() |
Lidl | Edit | Delete | |
7B |
|
![]() |
Stoneground | The left side of the roof behind the large boulder | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
|
![]() |
Pumpernickel | The right side of the roof behind the large boulder | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
|
![]() |
The Chorleywood Process | A traverse of the largest face of the Loafstone, start up Lidl and traverse the high break into Half Baked. | Edit | Delete |
7A (hard) |
|
![]() |
Brown and Out | In a pit round the back of the Loafstone. Start on chipped holes, deadpoint to a slot under the overlap then make a big move to a jug and top out. | Edit | Delete |
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info