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Problems:
6B |
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The Start of the Affair | On the steep wall below Moon Buttress, just left of the obvious groove climb from breaks to short thin cracks and the top | Edit | Delete |
5+ (hard) |
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Left Eliminette | The steep groove on the wall below Moon Buttress | Edit | Delete |
6A (soft) |
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Button Moon | Blind flake and pocket to edges and break | Edit | Delete |
6C (soft) |
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Last Light | Wall right of Rat Scabies, reach the hold in the middle of the wall then make a hard move for the break. | Edit | Delete |
6A+ (hard) |
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The Unreachable Star | The tenuous crack has a sketchy move to the break. Very highball (E2 6a) | Edit | Delete |
6B (soft) |
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The Dog's Hole | The thin crack up from the hole, to the right of Dog Crack and The Unreachable Star | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Rat Scabies | Pull up the wall via the head-height undercut. Mantle over the bulge, then jump off. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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I'll Be Bob | Just left of Ulysses or Bust (the arete left of Unreachable Star) in the recess is a tall phallic pillar. Monkey up the shaft to a tricky exit. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Trouser Jazz | Thin seam up the slab between Dogleg Crack and The Dog's Hole | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Slopey Wall | Behind End of the Affair is a broad open gully, which is easiest approached from above. The rounded upper wall of the gully can be climbed anywhere at around 6b to 6c. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Cloud Arete | The arete left of Cloud Cuckoo Land from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Cloud Cuckoo Land | Behind End of the Affair is a broad open gully, which is easiest approached from above. This climbs the centre of the lower wall, above blocks, from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Clouded Judgement | The wall just right of Cloud Cuckoo Land from sitting via mono to gain ramp with and top out direct | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Never Spanned | Start as for Clouded Judgement, but gain the mono with the left hand. Use this to rock over and lurch/dead point jump out right for a good sidepull just left of the arĂȘte, then top out using the arĂȘte above. The landing is a bit of a shocker so pads are useful. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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The Arse of Japan | A lefthand/direct variation of Art of Japan. A tricky eliminate slapping for the edge on the standard problem from two opposing flat undercuts on the left (eliminates undercuts further right) | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Art of Japan | An obscure John Allen classic. Up the middle of the north wall of a block set high on the edge, right of Apollo butress. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Talon Man Dyno | Flake to ledge dyno upwall between the start of Baron's Wall and Smoke On't Watter | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Downhill Gardener | Edit | Delete |
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