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Stanage Middle - Gritstone
Description: None.
Access: None.
Ascents: Show recent ascents.
Updates: Show latest updates.
Top 10 problems: (view all problems)
-
The Buckstone Dyno (7B) -
D.I.Y. (6B) -
The Hippo (7A+) -
Fallen Archangel (7A (soft)) -
Surprise Direct (6C)
All problems: (view only the best problems)
| Broken Buttress (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 5+ |
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Blow Out | A big, big reach between jugs on the arete. The finish is easier. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Blow Peter | Make the big move of Blow Out, then traverse rightwards along the break to do battle with the crack before the arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Wutang Span | The wall right of the prowler, starting with crimp(right) and sidepull (left). Dyno straight past the weetabix flakes to the jug on the upper flake, finish direct. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B (hard) |
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Crimp Shrimp | Sit start on right side of the wall on good holds, climb straight up via a tiny lefthand crimp. Slightly easier as a double dyno. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Snappy Wall | Right of the prow and flakes of the route Prowler is a short leaning wall. Climb this using big moves between snappy crumbling edges and flakes. Unerving. | Edit | Delete | |
| Central Buttress (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 6C |
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Central Buttress Direct | Straight through the roof to the lip flake, with hard moves to pass this. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A+ |
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Iain's Prow LH | Jump to the lip and stay left for a highball finish. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Iain's Prow RH | Jump to the lip and finish by rocking rightwards. | Edit | Delete | |
| Tom-Cat Slab (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 5 |
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Surprise | The left end of the slabby wall. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C |
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Poundland | Start left of Surprise Direct, at a shallow lip pocket. Work leftwards on poor slopers and finally rock onto the slab just before the crack. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Surprise Direct | Tackle the undercut slab using two reasonable holds. You'll be in for a surprise directly: an unreasonable move is required. | Edit | Delete | |
| High Neb (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7A (soft) |
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Fallen Archangel | From sitting, inch along the toppled arete and finally ascend with desperation. If only your wings hadn't been cut. | Edit | Delete | |
| Birthday Buttress (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7A |
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21 Today Sit Start | Sit start the undercut arete on its left. Make tricky moves to get established above the lip and continue to an easing finish. | Edit | Delete | |
| Youngster's Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7A |
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Youngster's Wall | The compact lower left side of the wall has undercuts beneath a thin crack leading to jugs. Climb the wall via monos and slopers, or a very morpho dyno. | Edit | Delete | |
| Jamie's Roof (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7A (hard) |
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Jamie's Roof | Start under the roof. Easily out to the lip then direct up the middle on lovely slopers. Worth seeking out. | Edit | Delete | |
| Count's Buttress (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7A+ |
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Shock Horror Slab direct | Gain the flake direct i.e. without pocket and sidepull out right. Thin pulling on slopers and pebbles | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C |
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The DT's | A right to left traverse of the slopey lip on the large boulder facing the road directly below Counts buttress. "It'll test your skin, endurance and right buttock to the max." | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C |
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Shirley's Shining Temple | On a slightly higher level, a small bay contains one of the hardest slabs in the peak. Really a route, but just about highball. Head upwards via a small cutaway. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Shock Horror Slab | Just right of Shirley's, and left of the corner. Gain the flake starting from holds on the far right of the slab | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Twix | 40m right of Shock Horror slab, high on the slope is a slab bound on its left by an Alliance style double arete. Climb this direct all the way | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Twix SS | Sit start the double arete | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Mantle the vague scoop on the right hand side of the DT's traverse, from a hanging start under the lip. A decent hold above the lip comes in handy. | Edit | Delete | ||
| 7A+ |
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Mantle through the DT's traverse on the left, using 2 finger pocket and some thrutching. Start hanging under the lip. | Edit | Delete | ||
| 7A |
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Edit | Delete | |||
| Buckstone (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 3 |
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Holes | Climb the 3 big holes on the south face. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4 |
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Arete | Climb the slightly undercut arete on the right | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C |
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Spring Voyage | Left of the dyno, undercut up to poor slopers, then go for the slopey top. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B |
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The Buckstone Dyno | From the large square jugs, dyno to the flatty. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C |
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Ron's Wall | Sitstart on jugs, right of the Buckstone dyno start. Most ascentionists use a heel in the dyno start holds, and finish using the right side of the dyno finishing jug. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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Buckstone Bulge | Just right of Ron's Wall. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Buckaroo | Just right of The Bulge. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A |
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The Buckshelf | Just right of the mantel problem, tackle the shelf. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5+ |
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Buckrib | Climb the rib, on the far side to the dyno. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5 |
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The Buckstone Groove | Climb the groove, right of the rib. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C+ |
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Buckfast | A low start to Buckstone Bulge. Start left hand on the starting rail of Ron's Wall and right hand on a sloping edge. Maul upwards using a heel hook | Edit | Delete | |
| Solomon's Seal (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 8A (hard) |
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Solomon Grundy | From sitting in the break down and left, climb into the standup. Adds a grade. BETA: "Start sitting with both hands in the break. Move LH to an undercling and get a good footlock with the left, move RH upto the lovely crimpy pocket, and lock this down to near your waist (lovely move this) to reach up into the starting LH sidepully undercling, RH boshes out to a pebble and then your hands are into the stand up of solomon's. then some tricky foot moves lead through into the stand up." | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C+ (hard) |
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Solomon's Seal | The centre of the wall is hard and crimpy, as well as very reachy. No arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B |
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The Jester | The one-move wall on its right, from two small slopey edges. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B+ |
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The Jester Low Start | From crouching on the arete, climb into the Jester. | Edit | Delete | |
| Cock o' the Rock (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 5+ |
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Cock Crack | Follow the crack on the left hand face. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C (hard) |
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Cock O Doodle Doo | Climb up the middle of the block from a sit start. Using the sloper above the lip and the right hand side pull reach to the thin break and exit direct. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Cock o' the Rock | Climb the arete, starting with a hand on the big sloper. Stacked pads may be required for some (or most!) people. No pads used on FA, it was a jump for the holds. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C+ |
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Big Willy Attitude | Climb cock o' the rock from a sit start. Start under the roof on a jug and use the arete and a heel out left to climb into the stand. Grade is a guess. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B+ |
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Rocksucker | Climb the face right of the arete, finishing via a scoop. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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Historical Arete | From right, follow the break leftwards to finish up the airy arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| Causeway (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 6A |
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Beaky Direct | The sharp arete, with an interesting move to mount the good hold. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4 |
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Sidepull Slab | The slab via sidepulls. | Edit | Delete | |
| 3 |
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Broad Rib | The rib right of sidepull wall. | Edit | Delete | |
| 4 |
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Rusty Left | Climb the left side of the arete, | Edit | Delete | |
| 4 |
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Rusty | climb the right side of the arete, | Edit | Delete | |
| 4 (hard) |
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Crispy Wall | Crimp up the left of the slab. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5 |
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The Skid | The cente of the wide slab, from slots. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5+ |
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Miss Sunshine | The steep wall is climbed on good holds to a finish over the nose. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5+ |
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Sunny Barger | Just right of Miss Sunshine, head for the large crack. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A+ |
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Iranu | From the low break in the right-most wall, gain the higher break via a gaston and mono. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5 |
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Uvavu | The right-most wall, on its right. | Edit | Delete | |
| D.I.Y. (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 6B+ |
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Black and Decker | The left side of the wall, up to a sloping ledge. From here, step left and wander up the arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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D.I.Y. | The centre of the slab is brilliant. Follow the slight groove to a good flake, then get creative. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Torture Garden | The wall just left of the crack, via a French start to the slot. An exquisitely thin rockover follows. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Sithee Direct | Climb the centre of the wall right of the crack, starting from the flat block. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5+ |
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Sithee | Gain the central line by leaning in to pockets from a block on the right. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A+ |
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The Hippo | Down below the D.I.Y. wall is a steep prow. Clamp up this from sitting (no footblock) to gain a juggy topout. Spotters reccomended. Start both hands on the right hand side with a flake for the right hand and a choice of slopers for the left. | Edit | Delete | |
- Samuel Palmer sent The Hippo, D.I.Y., Stanage Middle, date: Sunday 25 Oct 2020, details
- mdb2001 sent Iranu, Causeway, Stanage Middle, date: Tuesday 30 Jun 2020, details
- Matthieu sent Buckfast, Buckstone, Stanage Middle, date: Sunday 11 Aug 2019, details
- Charvington sent The Hippo, D.I.Y., Stanage Middle, date: Feb 2014, details
- Charvington sent Cock O Doodle Doo, Cock o' the Rock, Stanage Middle, date: Sunday 29 Dec 2013, details
- Krank sent The Hippo, D.I.Y., Stanage Middle, date: Saturday 05 Jan 2013, details
- nai sent Fallen Archangel, High Neb, Stanage Middle, date: Thursday 14 Jun 2012, details
- r-man sent Torture Garden, D.I.Y., Stanage Middle, date: Date not known, details
- andyunder sent Fallen Archangel, High Neb, Stanage Middle, date: Sunday 18 Sep 2011, details
- joealexander sent Holes, Buckstone, Stanage Middle, date: Saturday 12 Feb 2011, details
- joealexander sent Arete, Buckstone, Stanage Middle, date: Saturday 12 Feb 2011, details
- joealexander sent The Buckstone Groove, Buckstone, Stanage Middle, date: Saturday 12 Feb 2011, details
- Dan Varian sent Solomon Grundy, Solomon's Seal, Stanage Middle, date: Thursday 15 Apr 2010, details
- Dan Varian sent Solomon's Seal, Solomon's Seal, Stanage Middle, date: Thursday 15 Apr 2010, details
- nai sent Black and Decker, D.I.Y., Stanage Middle, date: Tuesday 17 Nov 2009, details
- nai sent D.I.Y., D.I.Y., Stanage Middle, date: Tuesday 17 Nov 2009, details
- Gareth sent The Buckstone Dyno, Buckstone, Stanage Middle, date: Sunday 11 Oct 2009, details
- r-man sent Surprise Direct, Tom-Cat Slab, Stanage Middle, date: Sunday 11 Oct 2009, details
- Gareth sent Surprise Direct, Tom-Cat Slab, Stanage Middle, date: Sunday 11 Oct 2009, details
- r-man sent The Hippo, D.I.Y., Stanage Middle, date: Sunday 11 Oct 2009, details
Latest Problem Updates:
- Buckfast, Buckstone, Stanage Middle updated on 18/08/2019 at 04:19PM
- , Count's Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 04/01/2019 at 05:46PM
- , Count's Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 01/01/2019 at 11:15AM
- , Count's Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 01/01/2019 at 11:13AM
- Torture Garden, D.I.Y., Stanage Middle updated on 07/05/2017 at 04:26PM
- Big Willy Attitude, Cock o' the Rock, Stanage Middle updated on 02/05/2014 at 02:30PM
- Cock O Doodle Doo, Cock o' the Rock, Stanage Middle updated on 25/02/2014 at 11:25AM
- The Hippo, D.I.Y., Stanage Middle updated on 24/02/2014 at 11:51PM
- Historical Arete, Cock o' the Rock, Stanage Middle updated on 24/02/2014 at 11:49PM
- Rocksucker, Cock o' the Rock, Stanage Middle updated on 24/02/2014 at 11:48PM
- Cock o' the Rock, Cock o' the Rock, Stanage Middle updated on 24/02/2014 at 11:48PM
- Cock Crack, Cock o' the Rock, Stanage Middle updated on 24/02/2014 at 11:48PM
- Twix SS, Count's Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 17/02/2014 at 12:58PM
- Twix, Count's Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 17/02/2014 at 12:57PM
- Fallen Archangel, High Neb, Stanage Middle updated on 14/06/2012 at 07:09PM
- Shock Horror Slab, Count's Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 30/01/2012 at 09:26AM
- Shock Horror Slab direct, Count's Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 30/01/2012 at 09:25AM
- Arete, Buckstone, Stanage Middle updated on 12/02/2011 at 07:59PM
- Holes, Buckstone, Stanage Middle updated on 12/02/2011 at 07:58PM
- The Buckstone Groove, Buckstone, Stanage Middle updated on 12/02/2011 at 07:53PM
- The Buckstone Dyno, Buckstone, Stanage Middle updated on 25/11/2010 at 07:04PM
- Shirley's Shining Temple, Count's Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 28/09/2010 at 12:23PM
- The DT's, Count's Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 28/09/2010 at 12:22PM
- Jamie's Roof, Jamie's Roof, Stanage Middle updated on 28/09/2010 at 12:21PM
- Youngster's Wall, Youngster's Wall, Stanage Middle updated on 28/09/2010 at 12:19PM
- Poundland, Tom-Cat Slab, Stanage Middle updated on 28/09/2010 at 12:18PM
- Iain's Prow RH, Central Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 28/09/2010 at 12:18PM
- The Jester, Solomon's Seal, Stanage Middle updated on 28/09/2010 at 12:16PM
- Solomon's Seal, Solomon's Seal, Stanage Middle updated on 28/09/2010 at 12:15PM
- Solomon Grundy, Solomon's Seal, Stanage Middle updated on 28/09/2010 at 12:15PM
- Ron's Wall, Buckstone, Stanage Middle updated on 28/09/2010 at 12:14PM
- Spring Voyage, Buckstone, Stanage Middle updated on 28/09/2010 at 12:14PM
- Black and Decker, D.I.Y., Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:39PM
- Sithee Direct, D.I.Y., Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:39PM
- Surprise Direct, Tom-Cat Slab, Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:39PM
- Iranu, Causeway, Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:39PM
- D.I.Y., D.I.Y., Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:39PM
- 21 Today Sit Start, Birthday Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:29PM
- Blow Out, Broken Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:28PM
- Blow Peter, Broken Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:28PM
- Snappy Wall, Broken Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:28PM
- Wutang Span, Broken Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:28PM
- Crimp Shrimp, Broken Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:28PM
- Iain's Prow LH, Central Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:28PM
- Central Buttress Direct, Central Buttress, Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:28PM
- Surprise, Tom-Cat Slab, Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:28PM
- Uvavu, Causeway, Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:27PM
- Sunny Barger, Causeway, Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:27PM
- Sithee, D.I.Y., Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:27PM
- Buckstone Bulge, Buckstone, Stanage Middle updated on 04/09/2010 at 04:27PM
