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Description: A great concentration of classic Peak gritstone problems.
Access: Park near the bridge, walk south down the big track!
Ascents: Show recent ascents.
Updates: Show latest updates.
20 Foot Crack Area (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5 (hard) |
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The Chant | The wall left of the crack. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
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20 Foot Crack | Edit | Delete | |
5 |
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The Curse | The centre of the wall right of the crack. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Lost in France | Just left of the right arete. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Triangular Traverse | From the start of Triangle Buttress Direct, traverse rightwards, past Triangle Crack on crimps, and via a wide bridge, and a lunge to a jug. Carry on to finish easily on Steptoe. | Edit | Delete |
Banana Finger Area (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5 |
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Wednesday Climb | The wide roof crack. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Definitive 5.12 | The cave and roof crack left of Banana Finger. From the back, follow the straight out. | Edit | Delete |
7A (hard) |
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Definitive 5.12 LH exit | The cave and roof crack left of Banana Finger. From the back, follow the crack to a tricky leftwards exit. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Side Wall | The side wall to the left of Bannana Finger and under the roof has a delightful crack. Start in the break and using polished smears go up to the crack and then the next break. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Cinzano Roof | Balanced atop the edge above and left of Banana Finger, is a boulder forming a small roof. Start from an edge and pocket. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Cinzano Roof RH | Start Cinzano Roof from the block on the right, and reach the pocket. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Banana Reverse | From jugs on the left arete, traverse into Banana Finger Direct, then reverse the Banana Finger traverse. | Edit | Delete |
6C (soft) |
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Banana Finger Direct | Wierd moves lead over the bulge and into the finish of Banana Finger. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Sloper Pull | Head up from slopers right of Banana Finger Direct. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Trav's Rumour | An eliminate problem. Climb left of Banana Finger, without the breaks. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Banana Traverse | Traverse the lip leftwards, to finish up the arete. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Banana Finger | Traverse crimps and slots leftwards, to rockover for the high break. | Edit | Delete |
7A (soft) |
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Little Brown Jug LH | On the buttress right of Banana Finger. Left of Wednesday Climb, start sitting on the left, and straight up avoiding the dab. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Little Brown Jug RH | Left of Wednesday Climb, start low on the right, using the arete. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Life in a Radioactive Dustbin | The roof right of Wednesday Climb. | Edit | Delete |
All Quiet (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6A |
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Traverse | Traverse the low break in either direction. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Back Street Mime Artist | Left of All Quiet is a boulder jumble with a deep cave in it. From the very back climb the rail feature. The low slab/plinth is not used for feet. | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
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All Quiet on the Eastern Front | From good holds on the left of the wall, traverse rightwards to the jug, then climb straight up. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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All Quiet Direct | Climb direct into All Quiet, using small holds. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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All Sit-Down | From the low jug, work upwards. | Edit | Delete |
4+ |
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The Busker | Wall left of the crack. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
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Bracken Crack | The crack. | Edit | Delete |
4+ |
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Green Slab | The wall right of the crack. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Fallen Slab | Just below and right of the All Quiet area is a fallen slab. Climb the steep side from sitting, using the back arete. Gain lip slopers and pull over the top. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Fallen Slab (strict) | Just below and right of the All Quiet area is a fallen slab. Climb the steep side from sitting, without using the back arete. Gain lip slopers and pull over the top. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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In The Flick Of Time Right-Hand | Sitstart and gain the slopey pinch with LH, then Mr Sheen nose with RH, then back to break and finish up ITFOT. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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In The Flick Of Time Standing Start | Edit | Delete | |
7B+ |
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In The Flick Of Sheen | Sitstart and gain the slopey pinch with LH. RH to nose and then get break. Finish up Mr Sheen | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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In The Flick Of Time | Sitstart matched on the low rail. Make a hard move to get RH slopey pinch, head via pebbles to the good hold below the flake with RH (used on MR sheen for LH). | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Mr Sheen Sitstart | Sitstart at the low rail on the left. Climb using handholds close to but not in the crack. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Mr Sheen | The vague rib just right of Fallen Slab, and left of the route The Grogan. From a standing start at the good break, right hand into small 2 finger pocket on rib. Use this and some fancy foot shenanigans to make a long reach to good holds. | Edit | Delete |
Remergence (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
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Small is Beautiful | Climb the slightly overhanging highball wall left of the Remergence Area. Big moves between breaks. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Waste Not | On the left side north facing wall of the block is a left curving blunt rib. Sit start at the base of the rib and climb direct to the break. The ledge is in for feet. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Want Not | On the left wall of the block. Sit start on the right with hands in thin break. Climb direct to the ledge on the arete with, all holds on Waste Not are in | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Big is Beautiful | Sit start with left hand on the arete and a heel toe jammed in on the right. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Blind Ali | Traverse the lip left to right, using holds on the roof below, but not on the back wall. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Blind Ali's Date | Start along Blind Ali, then finish up Blind Date. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Love Is Blind | Link Blind Ali into Blind Fig. Usual conventions apply on both the constituent problems - hands off the backwall on Ali, the edge next to the BF sloper is out, as are the remergence lip holds. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Break Traverse | Start in the Hanging Rib slots and traverse the break rightwards. No holds above the break. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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The Hanging Rib | From the break, reach the rib and manouevere upwards. | Edit | Delete |
6C (hard) |
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Two Sloper Eliminate | An eliminate. From the break, reach straight to the rib, then reach the twin slopers instead of the crimp. Go to the top from here. | Edit | Delete |
7B (soft) |
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One Sloper Eliminate | An eliminate. From the break, reach straight to the rib, then reach the left hand sloper. Go to the top from here. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ (hard) |
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Zaff's Groove | Climb between Hanging Rib and Remergence, to reach the jug on Hanging Rib. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Submergence | From the jug beneath the low roof, move left along the lip and pop into the starting holds of Arete Problem. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Submergence (hard way) | From the jug beneath the low roof, move left along the lip to match the polished sloper. From here, pop into the starting holds of Arete Problem. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Blind Drunk (reach method) | From the jug beneath the low roof, use long arms to bypass the hard move. | Edit | Delete |
8A (soft) |
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Blind Drunk (rock over method) | From jug beneath the low roof, power into remergence using a small dish. | Edit | Delete |
8A+ (soft) |
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Date Rape | Start up Blind Drunk rock over method and follow the Break Traverse to finish logically as for Blind Date. Hard, sharp and powerful. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ (soft) |
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Remergence | Pull through the centre of the roof to crimps and a crux rockover. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Blind Fig | A classic eliminate. From the start of Blind Date, match the sloper, then move left to poor lip holds. From here, pop for the finishing crimps of Remergence and rockover to glory. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Blind Date | Start right hand crimp, left hand flake in roof. Climb straight up, via the big sloper. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Blind Fury | The wall right of blind Date. | Edit | Delete |
Tiny Slab (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
4 |
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Left Arete | Edit | Delete | |
5 |
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Left of Middle | Edit | Delete | |
6A |
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Right of Middle | Edit | Delete | |
6C |
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Right Arete | Edit | Delete | |
6C |
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Solitude | The small and lonely buttress 30m right of the Tiny Slab. From a break in the cave, reach leftwards to a flake and rib. Follow this to a finish up and right. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Shazam | Attain the finishing break of Solitude from directly beneath. | Edit | Delete |
Ash Tree Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B |
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Puck | The prow on the block left of Sitting in Oxford. Gripping, and only done ground up above a deep snow platform so far. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Sitting in Oxford | A sitstart up an overhanging arete, the upper part of which is the route Living in Oxford. Pull on to the LHS using a pinch and a choice of poor left hand holds, then make a tricky move for good holds and the break. | Edit | Delete |
8A+ |
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Evil Eye | Basically a sit start to Superstition. Start sat on the rock, right of the arete. Right hand on a square cut edge, Left hand on a selection of nano holds. Do a big lock off a heel to a thin break and continue up the wall on more thin breaks. Obviously the arete isn't in! | Edit | Delete |
The Terrace (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7C (soft) |
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Terrace Left | Start as for the Terrace, but rather than taking the high slot with your lefthand, get it with your right, and make a powerful and insecure move to the good crack on the left. Finish up this. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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The Terrace | Sitstart the left of the twin boulders and slap up the arete. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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La Terrace | Climb The Terrace to until it is possible to spin and transfer to the opposite wall. Continue down and across to finish up Hanging Wall. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Jason's Stand-Up | Climb the fingery wall above the roof. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Jason's Roof sitstart | From sitting, reach round the roof and into the standup. | Edit | Delete |
7A (hard) |
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Hanging Arete | Climb the right arete on its left. | Edit | Delete |
7A (hard) |
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Hanging Wall | From a sitstart on the keel, contrive a sequence up the steep wall. Finish up the pock-marked slab. | Edit | Delete |
Striker (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ |
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Striker Arete | Climb the arete left of Striker. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Striker | Direct start to Beach Tea One. Dyno to the break. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Striker Arete Sit Start | Edit | Delete | |
The Sphinx (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B+ |
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Giza | Climb straight up, with a tough rockover. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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The Sphinx | Traverse the break rightwards to finish up the arete. | Edit | Delete |
8B |
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Voyager | French start using poor crimps, and fight rightwards to a highball finish. | Edit | Delete |
8B+ |
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Voyager Low Start | From sitting, pinch viciously rightwards along the lip. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Sputnik | Climb the right arete of the Voyager roof. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Roof Goofe | From the back, surmount the small roof. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Cleo's Edge | The lovely arete on the right-hand block. | Edit | Delete |
Nicotine Stain (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C+ |
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Only When I Crimp | On the base of the crag on a set forward block 5m right of Three Blind Mice (the arete of which is climbed by an obscure VS Rhapsody in Green). Sit start near the left arete in a long slopey pod above the lip. Gain and use a collection of poor crimps to rock back left into the pod. Finish up the arete. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Ai No Corrida | The tall arete to the left of Right Fin is an E5, but commonly highballed when snow improves the landing. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Burbage Oddment | Below and left of the route Long Tall Sally is a boulder with a nice arete. Climb this from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Plank Sanction | Down and left of the Pocket Dyno is a low roof crack with a few problems based around it. Up and about 20 metres to the left of this is a blunt right facing arete to a break and capping block. Start sitting on the right side of the arete, with a small crimp for your left hand. Use a scalloped gaston to reach an undercut pocket on the left, and a big rock up to the groove and an easier finish. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Pocket Dyno | Right of Nicotine Stain, above and right of Velvet Crab, is a head height roof with a pocket on the rib above. Jump from the lip to the pocket and up. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Slabby thing? | Left of Nicotine Stain, and on the wall right of Right Fin, climb the thin, slabby wall. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Nicotine Stain | Climb the techical seam. | Edit | Delete |
Boyager (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B |
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Duo Bulge | On the biggish boulder not far below Mono Bulge, with an easy finger crack up a slab on its downhill face. Climb the overhanging left arete on its left, rocking right at the top. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Ripple Riser | A right to left lip traverse of the face right of Mono Bulge. Sit start on juggy flake. Finish with a rockover at the apex. | Edit | Delete |
7B (hard) |
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Mono Bulge Right-hand | Start as for Mono Bulge then turn the arete at the nose to top out as for Ripple Riser | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Asylum Sika | Sit start (without base block)on the left of the face on the leftmost thin flake. Gain the good holds midway along the lip via diagonal rails. Top out up Ripple Riser. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Snappy Duds | Sit start midway along the face on the broken flake. Climb direct to good holds midway along the lip and top out direct. Flake footholds on right are in. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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La Poo | Stand start at the tallest point on the side wall with hands on the main slopey diagonal (the one crossed to on Asylum Sika). Climb straight up to top out at apex. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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La Poo Assis | Sit start to La Poo from a jug down and right. Avoid the arete/top of the block all the way of course. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Monochrome | Sitstart the arete left of Mono Bulge, using the mono with your right hand. Steep, powerful and brilliant. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Mono Bulge | Start with hands and feet on the base block. Slap up the steep left side of the prow's right arete to gain the nose, then swing left to finish up the middle. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Left-Hand Ride | From the back, climb the left arete of the prow, with a dyno to the finishing jugs. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Boyager | From the back, clamp along the prow above an awful landing. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Kepler | Biscet the Boyager prow. Start on the boulder on the right of the prow, lean across to the left arete and head up the left side wall via toe hooks, heel hooks and a couple of hard moves. | Edit | Delete |
7A (hard) |
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Bubble | Just behind and left of Boyager is a nice scooped wall. Climb this from sitting (on a single pad) at the right side of the overhang. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Dropping The Kids Off At La Pool | Start as for 'La Poo Assis', but rather than climbing up to the corner, carry on round, staying low, into 'Mono Bulge' via a tricky snatch for the mono. Finish up this. The footblock isn't in. | Edit | Delete |
Velvet Crab (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ |
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Velvet Crab | Tackle the highball left arete. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Left Crack | Climb the left-hand roof crack. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Right Crack | Climb the right-hand roof crack. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ (soft) |
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Zaff Skoczylas (sitstart) | Using whatever you can reach from sitting, climb the low-slung prow. | Edit | Delete |
7C (soft) |
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Zaff Skoczylas (lying start) | From matching on the big pocket, work up the prow. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Zaff Skoczylas RH (lying start) | From the same start, reach the slopers at the tip of the prow, then head right and layback to the top. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ (soft) |
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Pincer | Left-hand line on the Velvet Crab block. Start low, reach out/jump to the arete, match, rock left by undercutting the big break. Fun. | Edit | Delete |
Beyond the End (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7C |
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Once Upon a Time | The centre of the wall. Has lost pebbles since the first ascent. | Edit | Delete |
4 (soft) |
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Beyond the End | The right arete of the block. | Edit | Delete |
Enterprise (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B+ |
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Enterprise | The highball direct start to Windjammer. The main difficulties are over at 6m, but it has not yet been climbed without top-rope practice. A big press move leads to the crux - establishing a foot above the lip. | Edit | Delete |
Safe Bet (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
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Pocket Jump | Jump to the good pocket. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Pebble and Sloper | Climb via the pebble and sloper. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Safe Bet | Climb the attractive arete on its left. Also climbs nicely from a sitting start - no grade difference | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Long Shot | Edit | Delete | |
7A |
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Bedrock | The wall just left of Yabadabadoo | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Yabadabadoo | Leap to the ledge, and continue upwards. | Edit | Delete |
Far East end (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ |
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Beardown | Left of Addiction. From sitting, climb the arete on its right. Stay off big holds left of the arete. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Beardown Left Finish | As per Beardown, but finish using the big holds left of the arete. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Addiction aka Grizzly Bear | At the far east of Burbage North, To the right of a slab with a block on on top SS from twin pockets and sloper, reach out right to another sloper, rock out left to top | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Capped Rib | a couple of moves to the break and then reach round the mini overhang to top out | Edit | Delete |
Woods below Crag (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6A+ |
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Sylvan Slab | On the boulder at the edge of the woods, on the path saide face is a green slab whith a deep finger crack. Climb this to jugs on the top. | Edit | Delete |
Dead Tree Buttress (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ (hard) |
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low traverse | starting at Dead Tree Crack traverse rightwards keeping low at first, rising to turn the corner | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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high traverse | from Dead Tree Crack traverse rightwards along the obvious thin break above head height - finish on the wall round the corner. For extra fun start further left and traverse above the stump before joining the rest of the traverse | Edit | Delete |
Sentinel Area (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ |
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Crystal Eyes | The left arĂȘte of the Crystal Tips block (see routes guide). Start on the left from the obvious flat hold and finish on the right. Needs several pads to make the landing safe. | Edit | Delete |
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info