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Stasis (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B+ (soft) |
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Stasis | Follow the arching undercut crack feature until a big span or a tasty double dyno gets you onto the sloping ledge. Mantle to a jug on the wall if you feel brave and have lots of pads, or traverse off into the gully - same grade either way. Harder for the small. | Edit | Delete |
Entrance Slab (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C |
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Entrance Slab | Start from the floor (be strict) and climb the slab. | Edit | Delete |
Bad Landing Rib (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B |
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Bad Landing Rib | Edit | Delete | |
South Quarry (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
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Poisoned Dwarf | To the left of the quarry is a tall, peg-scarred crack. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Trellis | Climb the highball leaning wall opposite the Cioch block. From undercuts, climb via edges. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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The Leotard Legend | Climb the wall just right of the route Captain Invincible, finishing at the obvious ledge. | Edit | Delete |
Between Quarries (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
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Concave Wall | The concave wall requires balance. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Undercut Wall aka Hamburger Roof | The small roof and wall right of the concave, starting from the back. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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The Celtic Cross | Just across the way from the concave wall area is a short wall above the South Quarry. Climb the arete, with all sorts of tricks. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Little Gem | Jump start the fingery wall right of the arete. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Little Gem (strict) | Without the jump start. | Edit | Delete |
North Quarry (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C (soft) |
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Hanging Prow | Facing in to the quarry is a hanging prow. Pull on and thrutch upwards. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Hanging Prow Sitstart | Facing in to the quarry is a hanging prow. From a squatting start with feet on the back slab, slap upwards. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Zorev | The sharp arete on the left of the quarry, with a patio landing. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Zorev Sitstart | Edit | Delete | |
7A+ |
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Violence | On the small block with a slightly overhanging face, climb from sitting to a slopey topout. | Edit | Delete |
Above and Beyond (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
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Above and Beyond The Kinaesthetic Barrier | From left, climb to the high arete, then finish leftwards. Solid E4 with protection! | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Above and Beyond Direct Start | Straight up the arete. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Samson | Start up the offwidth route Goliath, then swing left to finish up wall. Highball. Has not been climbed ground up yet. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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David Traverse | From standing on the shelf, descned round the arete and traverse rightwards to reach flakes and finish on a finger jug. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Roller Wall | Highball and slabby. Climb direct up the middle. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Saul | The chipped wall to the ledge. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Philistine | The prow formed by the right arete of Goliath and the left hand side of David. Start up the Left arete and reach right at the top to highball fridge hug finish. | Edit | Delete |
Pebble Mill (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B+ |
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Pebble Mill | Climb the slab and arete. Jump off at some point. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ (hard) |
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Pepper Mill | Climb the arete on its right, to a good jug. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Pebble Mill Traverse L-R | Traverse the wall from undercuts, to finish on the far arete. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Pebble Mill Traverse R-L | Traverse the wall to finish on the far undercuts. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Pepper Mill Exit | Traverse pebble mill right to left and finish up the arete on its right. | Edit | Delete |
7B (soft) |
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Pebble Mill Stem | Probably the best problem on this wall. From the right arete, traverse left with feet on the Pebble Mill traverse handholds. Finish up the left arete, on its right. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Dork Child | The arete a little right of the Pebble Mill wall, on its left. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Wenger Out | A nice slab, a few metres left of Pebble Mill. | Edit | Delete |
7 Ball (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6A+ |
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7 Ball (standing) | Edit | Delete | |
6C (hard) |
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7 Ball | From a sitstart on low holds right of the groove, traverse left to grapple upwards, using the arete. | Edit | Delete |
4+ |
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Wall | Edit | Delete | |
6A |
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Right Arete | The right arete of the wall. | Edit | Delete |
Broddle (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B+ |
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Broddle's Baby | Climb the awkward arete from standing. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Trapped in Crows' Craws | Clamp up the twin aretes from sitting and finish leftwards up Broddle's Baby. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Trapped in Crows' Craws RH | Make an easier finish rightwards, but above a worse landing. | Edit | Delete |
Lower Slab (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
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Adjacent Arete | Climb the arete on the adjacent boulder, from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
5+ (hard) |
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Slab Left | Climb the left hand line, without arete or groove. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Slab Middle | Climb the middle of the slab. | Edit | Delete |
4 (soft) |
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Slab Right | Climb the slab on its right, no arete. | Edit | Delete |
Mantel Block (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C |
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Adjacent Problem | The wall left of the arete on the boulder just left of the mantel block. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Jason's Mantel | Left of centre, mantel the low slab from a hanging start. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Not Jason's Mantel | Right of centre, mantel the slab from a hanging start. | Edit | Delete |
Small Block (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B+ |
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Small Block | Climb the small block, from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
Electrical Storm (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B+ |
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Grease lightening | As for Electrical storm, but exit leftwards via a right hand gaston | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Electrical Storm | A lightning bolt set in stone. Sitstart and follow the rightwards leading ramp to a top out on good edges. | Edit | Delete |
Attitude Inspector (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C (hard) |
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Bad Attitude | Crimpy flakes left of Attitude Inspector, just right of the crack. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Bad Attitude Sitstart | Pull into the standup from sitting, using very poor footholds. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Attitude Inspector | The arete just right of a corner, with a dynamic top move. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Attitude Inspector Sitstart | Sitstart. Go up. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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The Neck | The wall a couple of metres left of the Knack, to the obvious break. Starts just right of the crack/arete of Nathanial and doesn't use this feature - just a selection of nasty little crimps up to the break. Landing needs ample padding. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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The Knack Sitstart | Sitstart the obvious line through the middle of the wall. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Old Macdonald | The wall between the Knack and Bright Eyes. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Knick Knack Paddy Whack Sitstart | From matched on the large undercut on the right side of the wall, climb to the first break. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Bright Eyes | The direct finish to Knick Knack Paddy Whack, climbed from standing. This is likely to need cleaning due to being a drainage line. It can also be done from sitting (as for Knick Knack Paddy Whack Sitstart) at the same grade. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Bright Eyes Sitstart | Edit | Delete | |
7A |
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Gib's Rib | Climb the fine right arete of the next wall right. Finish at the break, and escape down the easy route to the left. Brilliant moves. | Edit | Delete |
Definitive 5.11 (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B (hard) |
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Sitting Duck | From the block at the back, undercut out to the lip and swing up to the jug on the arete, finishing up this | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Rock Bottom | On the lower boulder, hang the lip left of the 5.11 crack and rock onto the slab. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Definitive 5.11 | Time for some caving. Crawl into the crevice between boulders, then climb the crack to add variety to your return voyage. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Definitive Burlesque | An arm busting link up. Climb Definitive 5.11 from the very back and traverse into Pedestal problem. Finish up this. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Pedestal | From sitting on the pedestal, move to the lip and make a long rockover to the pocket. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Definitive Arete | From the jug, ascend the arete. | Edit | Delete |
The Knock/Captain Sensible (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B (soft) |
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Knocksville | Did this around 1994 not sure if it had been done before Sit start the knock then up digaonally left on slopes and edges till the good ledge is reached. Eliminate but good. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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The Kursk | Sitstart Byrne's crack (left of the Knock). Get your jams out... | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Slopey Traverse | A little to the left, just right of the knock, traverse the slopey block from a left arete jug. Finish up slopers just past the centre. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Shelf Wall | Climb using the shelf. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Left Arete | On its right. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Right Arete | On its left. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Mad Llehctim | Follow the pebbles up the highball slab to the left of Life Assurance | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Bath House Pink | Slab facing the Knock. Eases with height, old E4 6c | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Maillard | A sit start to the left arete of The Knock's buttress. Start on a large rock just under the roof with the arete (LH) and a toothy scoop (RH). Climb straight up the arete using all sorts of tactics, but not using anything out left, of course. Finish in the high juggy break. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Liam Kneescum | The small arete below Parthian shot from a sit start, avoiding the left wall. The key is in the name. | Edit | Delete |
The Alliance & Classic Arete (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
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The Alliance | The highball prow is climbed by straddle-slapping. Spotters and extra pads recommended. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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The Alliance Sitstart | Clamp upwards from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Classic Arete | A little to the right of The Alliance. Start as low as possible on the front face. Move up to the left arete, rockover onto the slab and swing left on the arete jug for an easy finish. No right arete. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Classic Arete Original | Start on the right side of the arete and climb up and left turning onto the left side of the arete very low. Finish up the left side. | Edit | Delete |
Home Cooking (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
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Home Cooking | Hug up the highball prow. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Thick End of the Wedge | Climb Home Cooking from a sit start, left hand on crimp and right hand on the arete. Not a squatting or standing start, but a sit start. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Eating Out | Climb the slab on the right side of the arete. | Edit | Delete |
Desparete & The Rib (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C |
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Brap Scallion | The left arete of the Desparete face from a stand start (considerably easier with jump start) | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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A Moveable Feast | The next block left of The Rib has a leaning right arete. Climb this on it's right side from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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The Rib | A little left of Desperate is a quarried rib. Climb this with a crux slap to the top jug. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ (soft) |
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Pump the Dirty Groove | The usually dirty groove right of the rib. From left hand undercut, right on crimp at bottom of groove. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Desparete | The aretes right of the groove offer highball hugging action. | Edit | Delete |
Intense (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B |
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I'm Tense | Sitstart from a low slot and move up and left using undercuts and a sidepull. | Edit | Delete |
7C (soft) |
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Intense (standing) | Stack pads to reach the high holds (crimps) | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Intense | Using a left hand side pull, french start to the right hand side pull and go for the top. | Edit | Delete |
8A+ |
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Heavy Sky | The obvious sit start to Intense. Start matched on the jug/slot and climb into the stand via a heel hook out right. | Edit | Delete |
Triangle Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6A+ |
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Triplet | The right arete from a sitter down right | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Triangle Rib | The high rib right of the Triangle clock via the flake | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Triangular Wall Arete | Climb out to the left arete, from the same start. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Triangular Wall | From sitting, reach the crimp and go for the good edge. | Edit | Delete |
8A+ |
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Seperate Feehality | The obvious crack line in the cave behind the Triangle Boulder. Start sitting with 2 hands in the lowest holds in the crack. A great boulder problem, in a disappointing location. Can be started higher, matched on the flake. Maybe about 8a from here. | Edit | Delete |
Fuji (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C |
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Kodak Lightweight Service Sector | The left side of the Fuji arete from a sit start. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Rail Dyno | Slap from the good rail right of Fuji to the top. | Edit | Delete |
6B (soft) |
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Standup Arete | Climb the small arete on its right, from standing. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Fuji Heavy Industries | The sitstart to Standup Arete, with an awkward move to get stood up. Finishing up the Rail Dyno is 7a. | Edit | Delete |
6B (hard) |
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Pocket Wall | From the pocket, go for the break. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Pocket Wall Sitstart LH | Sitstart just right of the arete, and make a couple of moves to gain the slopey pocket. Finish at the break. The large foothold to the left is in. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Pocket Wall Sitstart RH | Sitstart from an undercut down and right. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ (soft) |
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Flat Wall Dyno | The leaning wall to the right, with some steep pulls to good arete holds. | Edit | Delete |
Little Rascal (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C |
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What a Way to Spend Easter | Some way to the left of Little rascal, and before Flat Cap, is this hemmed in slab. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Little Rascal | Climb the groove on the right hand side of the wall. At the sloping ledge, escape right or jump. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Little Rascal Sitstart | Start from a full sitting position, in the crack, to gain the standing start. | Edit | Delete |
Flat Cap (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C+ |
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The Whippet | From the break, reach the lip and pull over. No arete. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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The Flat Cap | On the far side, from the lowest part of the block, traverse awkwardly leftwards from two crimps. Topout at the highest point. | Edit | Delete |
The Tower (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B+ |
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The Boggart | Climb the crack in the front face until the break is reached. Either jump off or continue up the route. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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The Boggart Left-hand Start | Gain the good break of the Boggart from the left. Fairly highball. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Ridikulus | Start up The Boggart, traverse left and reverse the Left hand to the ground | Edit | Delete |
Left of Definitive 5.11 (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
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High Arete | Is high. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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pigs make nests sit start | uses crimps(right) and left hand sidepull/undercut. | Edit | Delete |
7C (soft) |
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pigs make nests | on the 'left of definitive 5.11' boulder this problem goes up the wall just right of high arete starting on a pinch(left hand) and a crimp (right hand) via a two finger pocket(right) and some slopers. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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life of pie | starting on a good right hand hold, left on finger pocket, slap your way up the slopers. Basically the direct on pockets n stuff, starting on the ground instead of the boulder. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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more cheese gromit | The roof right of life of pie. sit start, left on side pull, right on low flake, feet on ledge. power up through the roof using left arete, finish direct up the nose. 6c with jammed block for feet | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Pockets 'n' Stuff | Edit | Delete | |
Below Definitive 5.11 (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B+ (soft) |
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Iain's Pinch | A wall on shallow pocketed rock. Step off the boulder to reach a nice LH pinch, and go for a slopey top, via a small RH pocket. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Iain's Roof | The roof just right of Mike's Problem, using the footblock. From two huge holds, power through the roof. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Iain's Roof (strict) | Without the footblock. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Solstice | The left arĂȘte on the north side of a big block below Definitive 5.11. Soft rock low down and avoids the obvious challenge. | Edit | Delete |
6B (soft) |
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Painting Pebbledash is a Pain in the Ass | Start as for Solstice but follow the ramp to the top of the boulder. | Edit | Delete |
Sliver Block (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
4 |
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Sliverlite | The triangular wall left of Sliversmith to a break using the left arĂȘte at the top. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Sliversmith | The best of the bunch. Climb the left hand side of the wall to a tricky top out using the left hand side of the wafer of grit. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Slivereen | The wall right of Sliversmith. Another tricky top out using the wafer | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Sliver | Central line up to the right side of the wafer | Edit | Delete |
4 |
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Sliver Lining | The wall right of Sliver. The easiest top out on the wall, using a flaky feature. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Sliverspoon | The wall right of Sliver Lining | Edit | Delete |
Birch Tree Arete (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ |
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Little Artless | The wall just left of Birch Tree Arete. Edges lead to a sloper slap. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Birch Tree Arete | Climb the right arete. | Edit | Delete |
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info