Hide
Description: excellent. all round problems for all grades, with some of the hardest problems in the peak found here within the trees
Access: from A53. turn of for the roaches tea rooms. follow road past the waterfall, and the tea rooms, up the hill, to a large lay by and where an ols bus stop is., follow path right, then turn left. passing the don whillians cottage and you're there.
Ascents: Show recent ascents.
Updates: Show latest updates.
Ascent of Man (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
|
![]() |
Catastrophe Internationale | Climb to the halfway pod, then acquaint yourself with a selection of pebbles. Aim for the rounded boss to the right, then jugs made of heather. E5. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
|
![]() |
Apache Dawn | Gain the centre of the mid-height pod, then head straight up using pebbles. E5. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
|
![]() |
Bareback Rider | The tricky arete leads to a worrying mantel, then some slab padding. E4. | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
|
![]() |
Ascent of Man | From the cave, head up to the flake. Finish here or push left and upwards for hero points and E grades (three of them). | Edit | Delete |
6B+ (hard) |
|
![]() |
Ascent of Woman | A right hand start to Ascent of man, following the ribs to the flake. Finish here, or head straight up for E4. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
|
![]() |
Traverse of Man | From the cave, head leftwards to the far hollybush. | Edit | Delete |
Scoop Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6A |
|
![]() |
The Hole | Left of The Scoop, climb to the top via a hole. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
|
![]() |
The Scoop | Edit | Delete | |
Bog Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
3 (hard) |
|
![]() |
Left Slab | Left of Scooped Slab. | Edit | Delete |
3 (hard) |
|
![]() |
Scooped Slab | On the backside of the boulder. The landing is often dry, which is nice. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
|
![]() |
Big Holds | Left of the arete. | Edit | Delete |
3 (hard) |
|
![]() |
Undercuts | From undercuts, climb the wall left of scoops. | Edit | Delete |
3 (hard) |
|
![]() |
Arete and Scoops | The left arete on its left, using scoops. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
|
![]() |
Bog Arete | The left arete on its right. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
|
![]() |
Pebbly Wall | Use pebbles to climb the wall above the bog. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
|
![]() |
Pebbles and Seam | Left of the scoops. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
|
![]() |
Scoops | The scoops on the front face. | Edit | Delete |
C3PO (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A (hard) |
|
![]() |
Boba's Traverse | Start on the left and head rightwards. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
|
![]() |
Spring Slab | Climb the line left of C3P0. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
C3P0 | Climb the centre of the slab. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
|
![]() |
Boba Fett | Smear straight up, just left of the right arete. (The arete is out). | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Bobarete | Climb the right arete of the front face, above a water filled hole. | Edit | Delete |
3 |
|
![]() |
Sprat | The easy wall the backside of the boulder. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
|
![]() |
Sprung | From sitting, tackle the flake. | Edit | Delete |
4+ |
|
![]() |
Sprite | The right arete on the back, on its left. | Edit | Delete |
Spring Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
4+ |
|
![]() |
Slabby Seam | The front arete on its right. | Edit | Delete |
3 |
|
![]() |
Slabby Seam | The seam on the backside of the boulder. | Edit | Delete |
3 |
|
![]() |
Blunt Arete | The arete right of the seam. | Edit | Delete |
Big Holes (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6A |
|
![]() |
Violence | The taxing scoop on the left end of the boulder. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
|
![]() |
Impotence | The blunt arete right of the scoop. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
|
![]() |
Seconds Out | The offwidth. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
The Grind | Undercut holes to reach a slopey top. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
|
![]() |
Skinned Rabbit | Same as the Grind, but further right. Undercut holes to reach the top. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Skinned Rabbit Sitstart | Edit | Delete | |
6C+ |
|
![]() |
Arete LH | The arete on its left. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
|
![]() |
Arete RH | The arete on its right. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
|
![]() |
Mr Nice | Climb the wall via the chipped foothold. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
|
![]() |
Arete to Scoop | From the right arete, climb into the scoop to the left. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
|
![]() |
Right Arete | Climb the right arete all the way to the top, on its left. | Edit | Delete |
The Fly (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ |
|
![]() |
The Fly | Start on the low flake and climb the prow above a very wet landing. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
|
![]() |
The Lurch | The scoop is reached by jumping. | Edit | Delete |
Dougless Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C+ |
|
![]() |
Particle Exchange | From the crack, move left to continue up the arete. Worth an E grade. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
|
![]() |
Dougless | From the crack, quest directly up across round surfaces. High. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
|
![]() |
The Rumour | The rippled slab right of Dougless. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
|
![]() |
Sketchy Rib | The rib on the right of the main face. | Edit | Delete |
3 (hard) |
|
![]() |
Arete | The right arete of the main face. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
|
![]() |
Chips and Flake | The chips and flake to the right of the arete. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
|
![]() |
Scratchy Scoop | On the far side to the rest of the problems, climb the scoop right of the carved steps. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
|
![]() |
Ned Zeppelin | Climb the obvious prow right of Scratchy Scoop. Classic ball mauling. Grade is a guess due to freshly cleaned rock and warm temps. | Edit | Delete |
The Gutter (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B (soft) |
|
![]() |
The Gutter | Start at the back of the cave on undercuts. Reach the lip and continue up the arete. Wall on right is out inc obvious big heel in the crack. Gets 6c+ with it in. | Edit | Delete |
Green Slab (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
4+ |
|
![]() |
Slab | The slab left of the crack. | Edit | Delete |
3 |
|
![]() |
Crack | The central crack. | Edit | Delete |
4+ |
|
![]() |
Smearing Practice | The slab right of the central crack. | Edit | Delete |
3 (hard) |
|
![]() |
Chips | Edit | Delete | |
6A |
|
![]() |
Green Slab Left Of Flake | Edit | Delete | |
5 (soft) |
|
![]() |
The Flake | On the back of the boulder. | Edit | Delete |
Greener Traverse (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ |
|
![]() |
Greener Traverse - Turner's Extension | From left, keep low until the very end of the block. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
|
![]() |
The Greener Traverse | Traverse the ramp rightwards. Finish over the sloping top. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
|
![]() |
The Greener Traverse Sitstart | Crimp into the traverse from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
|
![]() |
The Greener Reverse | Starting sitting at the lowest point of the rail and traverse leftward to top out at the left hand end | Edit | Delete |
6A |
|
![]() |
The Greener Slap | The final move of the traverse makes for a good easier problem. | Edit | Delete |
Low Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
|
![]() |
Rounded Top | Mantel left of the left arete. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
|
![]() |
Obvious Line | Use anything (on this boulder). | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
|
![]() |
Obvious Sitstart | From sitting at the jug. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
|
![]() |
Jug to Arete | From sitting at the jug, move left to the arete. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
|
![]() |
No Undercut | From sitting at the jug, climb straight up without the undercut on the right. | Edit | Delete |
Three Pocket Slab (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
4 |
|
![]() |
Short Slab | Left of the arete. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
|
![]() |
Arete | The arete left of Three Pocket Slab, on its right. | Edit | Delete |
6A (hard) |
|
![]() |
Three Pocket Slab | Follow the pockets up the slab. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
|
![]() |
Parental Duties | From the starting foothold of Three Pocket Slab, climb straight up via pebbles. Needs a good clean at the moment. | Edit | Delete |
3 |
|
![]() |
Big Flakes | Edit | Delete | |
5 |
|
![]() |
Worrying Wall | In between flakes and the diagonal crack. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
|
![]() |
Diagonal Crack | May contain vegetation. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
|
![]() |
Flake Crack | Edit | Delete | |
6C (hard) |
|
![]() |
Stretch and Mantel | From undercuts, stretch to the top. Guess what move comes next? | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
The Big Dyno | From undercuts left of the arete, leap upwards. | Edit | Delete |
6A+ (hard) |
|
![]() |
Stretch Left | From the arete, stretch left to the finish of Big Dyno. Mantel. | Edit | Delete |
5+ (soft) |
|
![]() |
Classic Arete | From sitting, follow large holds to the top. | Edit | Delete |
Slabby Face (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
4 (soft) |
|
![]() |
Rounded Feature | The hardest section of wall presents a rounded feature, right of centre. | Edit | Delete |
3 |
|
![]() |
Slabby Problems | Almost anywhere on this wall is about the same grade. | Edit | Delete |
Inertia Reel Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
8A+ |
|
![]() |
Inertia Reel traverse | From far left, traverse the sloping line to far right. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Ant Lives | A desperate mantel is the key to climbing through the left end of the slopey shelf. Move up right to finish. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
|
![]() |
Inertia Reel | Unusual moves lead upwards via the thin undercut. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
|
![]() |
Turbo | Sit start Inertia Reel. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
|
![]() |
Thud | from the lovely scallop and the undercut in the roof, climb into Teck Crack Direct. The back wall is in for feet. Upside down toe-hooking is one method, another is campus power. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
|
![]() |
Teck Crack Direct Start | Follow the shelf right and up, then go for the top. Please take care with the eroding starting foothold. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
|
![]() |
Teck Crack Super Direct | Climb the thin seam that leads into the finish of Teck Crack. Shorter folk will need to cheat to get started. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
|
![]() |
The Dignity of Labour | From the block on the right of the main wall, traverse left a little, then make a big move upwards to a scary topout. At the moment (17/10/09) this is filthy due to muddy run off. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
A Modest Proposal | From break, reach the nose via the left-most of the twin prows. Finish up this. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
|
![]() |
Brown's Roof Crack | Climb the roof crack through the Modest Proposal roof. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
|
![]() |
Skydivin' | From the boulder, leap to the nose and finish as for Modest Proposal. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
|
![]() |
Offwidth Roof Crack | Edit | Delete | |
7C+ |
|
![]() |
Mushin' | Campus up the bulge. The difficulties stop at the break, though it can be topped out if you brush off the muck. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
|
![]() |
Boozy Traverse | From the holly bush, traverse left beneath Mushin'. Crux comes after the crack. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
|
![]() |
Pindles Numb | Swing leftwards along the high hand-rail, make a hard move into the groove and finish up this. Quite highball. E4. | Edit | Delete |
8A (soft) |
|
![]() |
Turbo extension | Start as for Inertia Reel Traverse, but once dropped down into the start of Turbo, finish up this. Heinous!! | Edit | Delete |
Maud's Boulders (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ (hard) |
|
![]() |
Slabotomy - Left-Hand Start | The fine slab, started to the left. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
|
![]() |
Slabotomy | The cool slab, started at the lowest point, left of the crack. | Edit | Delete |
6C (soft) |
|
![]() |
Malted Milk | The fine crack in the left hand block, an easier version uses the arete and the crack. | Edit | Delete |
6A (soft) |
|
![]() |
Boobage | The arete to the left of Malted Milk | Edit | Delete |
Piece of Mind Area - Back Edge (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A (soft) |
|
![]() |
Two Bumps | Behind the main slab, on the arete left of the gully, sitstart from two bumps and climb the arete. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
|
![]() |
No Bumps | Behind the main slab, climb the arete left of the gully from standing. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
|
![]() |
Off Work | The offwidth. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
|
![]() |
Twisted Crack | Follow the crack. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
|
![]() |
Scrittle Whale | Mantel the overhang via the scoop. | Edit | Delete |
Piece of Mind Area - Main Slab (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
4 |
|
![]() |
Big Slab and Crack | Up the centre of the slab, gaining a crack. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
|
![]() |
Wildy's Right | The arete on its right. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
|
![]() |
Wildy's Left | The arete on its left. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
|
![]() |
Wildy's Left Sitstart | Edit | Delete | |
7C (soft) |
|
![]() |
The Crystal Maze | To the right of the cottage, just below the prow cracks / peace of mind sector, is a clean, blank looking wall sheltered under the trees. Follow a line on the middle wall / vague arete for your right, via an interesting sequence using pebbles, crystals and edges, to a satisfying topout. A half decent problem if your fingertape is in the right place. | Edit | Delete |
Valhalla (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B |
|
![]() |
Valhalla | The blank wall between Matinee and Valkyrie. Dynamically (or statically) gain the horizontal break, then head for the line of shallow pockets under the roof, via the left vertical crack. Poor feet but a great, getting on high, problem. Probs a little harder for shorties with t-rex arms. | Edit | Delete |
The Bridge Block (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
|
![]() |
Finger Anatomy | The overhang and prow on the left side of the block behind the cottage. Starting low, use the ramp line and left arete, using heels, slopers and a committing last move. Obviously no left bottom block. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ (soft) |
|
![]() |
Circumcision | Right of " Finger Anatomy" on the Bridge boulder, behind the cottage, is a hanging crack of various widths. Start at the back of it with hands and feet both starting in the crack. Jam your way through this until the hanging prow can be gained to escape the crack and the cave. Use of the boulder behind is out and be careful not to cut your manhood off on the final section!!! | Edit | Delete |
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info