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Over the Road (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B |
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Slab Left | Very close to the bend in th road is an undercut slab facing south. Climb it left of centre | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Slab Right | Climb the slab right of centre. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Framboid | Great obscure gem of a problem with a cracking view. On the farthest block climb the chunky flake to a jug on the lip and a hard topout. | Edit | Delete |
Undertaker Area (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B |
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Melvyn Bragg | Above the route The Undertaker is this mean roof crack. From the back, scrape, thrust and thrutch "using, fists, tea-cups, butterfly jams and finally the mother of all jams - the double fist stack." Reputedly tougher than Ray's Roof. | Edit | Delete |
Sniff (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6A+ |
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Sniff | Below Ultimate Sculpture is a small buttress. Climb the flake and slab. The landing ia a bit slopey | Edit | Delete |
Lower Tier (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C+ |
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hemline extension | Instead of finishing hemline up last drop continue the traverse rightwards by a few thin moves to the very end of the crag-actually very good and more in keeping with the line-no change in grade. | Edit | Delete |
6B (hard) |
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Tiers End alternative sit start | Start low and right on obvious sloping boss, pull up leftwards via two undercut finger edges in the groove, with a great move to the big rail, finish up either Tiers End or Last drop-a good addition to the crag. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Tier's End | Climb steeply into the groove from the jug rail to the right of Tier Drop | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon | This "maybe" an old school problem with a similar name. A cheeky litte gem. At the Right end of smoothment Traverse is a low overhang. Pinch the lip of this (underneath the slot) with left , right hand on the vague smeary rail right of the arete. from here, right foot on a ledge, under overhang. quickly get a left heel on, press on this and catch the small slot slightly higher, then press harder and snatch a sidepull at the end of Smoothment, then for top flakes as for sketchy wildly. Slightly easier to get a heel with right on smeary rail after sidepull move. Low start on sidepull on lower overhang and using slot is 7b, and same start but using pinch on lip of low overhang is 7b+/c | Edit | Delete |
7A (soft) |
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Tier's End Sit Start | Climb the Tier Drop sit start before traversing the jug rail right into Tier's End | Edit | Delete |
6C (soft) |
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Bridgy's Metro Mayhem | A one move wonder & an essay to follow.Left of where rock climbing in Britain starts, is a thin horizontal break on the blank wall. It ends in the middle, where a small but positive crimp lies, a high step onto a small polished crimpy ledge is below this on the lip, and a vague indentation out right for the right hand. Rock up and pop for the ledge. For 6c. Starting with the right foot on a even smaller ledge / crystal below the right hand hold & an even bigger pop up goes for a deserved 6c+. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
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Sensible Shoes | The roof left of the hanging crack. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Crab Walk Direct | The hanging crack. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Roof Direct | The roof right of the hanging crack. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Hemline | Traverse the whole buttress from left to right taking the line of least resistance at various heights. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Tit Grip | Throw for the slopey lip from the two small edges in the central low roof. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Rock Climbing In Britain | From a sit start left of Tit Grip, hand traverse the slopey lip rightwards (no using the jugs at the back), to finish at a flake jug above the start of Collywood | Edit | Delete |
7A+ (hard) |
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Tierdrop | Climb the highball roof at the right hand side of the buttress, using the beautiful pinch. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Sam's Left Hand | A left hand finish to Tierdrop, reaching up left from the rail on the lip. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Collywood | A low right to left traverse, from a sitstart, both hands in the crack. Finish upwards at the left end. | Edit | Delete |
Dangerous Crocodile Area (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
3 (soft) |
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Easy prow | On the left of little prow is a jug which marks the way for an easy, plesant problem. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Little Prow | On a separate little boulder left of the area. Start on a sloping shelf and use the right arete to reach the top. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Slappy Seconds | On the little prow boulder, start as far right on the slopey rail as possible. Traverse left, then pop for a crimp and up again for the big ledge, then top out. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Ram Air | A high rounded arete, above a bouldery landing. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Ossie's Bulge | From the big flake left of Ram Air, go straight up to a slopey top out. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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The Lurch | From the flake left of Ram Air, Traverse left then up to finish. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
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The Scoop | The easy scoop left of Ram Air and Ossie's Bulge. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Elastic Wall | The right side wall of the Dangerous Crocodile Snogging Prow. Use a small sidepull to catch the top. | Edit | Delete |
6A (soft) |
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The Arete | Climb the sharp arete, behind and right of Dangerous Crocodile Snogging. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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5c Wall | Work up crimps on the wall right of The Arete. | Edit | Delete |
2 |
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Baby Groove | Climb the easy groove right of The Arete. | Edit | Delete |
5 (hard) |
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Hanging Crack | The grim steep crack on the next boulder behind. | Edit | Delete |
7B (soft) |
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Man Size | The steep bulging arete in the gully left of Hanging Crack, using a big slopey pinch. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Classic Mantel | The slopey lip facing the track. | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
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Up The Bottom | Start on your bottom on the left side of the flake on Easy Prow, climb up left to grab the buttocks feature with both hands and get on top of it. | Edit | Delete |
Johnny's Groove (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
8C+ (hard) |
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Johnny's Groove | The short hanging groove left of the two offwidth chimneys, with a jump start into a bridge. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Crocodile Slot | The highball offwidth chimney on the left. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Right Slot | The highball offwidth chimney on the right. | Edit | Delete |
Ramshaw Crack buttress (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7C |
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Slow Show | Below and right of Ramshaw Crack. Break left out of the corner along rails to a heelhook then head straight up. | Edit | Delete |
Magic Roundabout Boulders (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C (soft) |
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chocolatelogue | On the other side of the epilogue boulder is an obvious crack high crack climb this to a more powerful than it looks finish | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Force Nine | The tricky slab on pebbles to a good flake, or push on to a scrittley highball top out. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Be Calmed Right Hand | Mantel into the slopey Scoop from the right. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Be Calmed | Mantel into the slopey Scoop from the arete on the left. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
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Magic Arete | The easy-ish arete on the left of the backward facing buttress. | Edit | Delete |
3 |
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The Finger | The pointy little pinnacle. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Jamless | Climb the hanging crack on the left hand of the steep buttresses. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Arete On Left | The slabby arete in the gully leads to a slopey top out. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Epilogue | Hug the thin crack and right arete to a sloping mantel finish. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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The Rammer | The central chimney. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Monologue | Climb the wall right of the central chimney by hugging up the aretes. Not as morpho as it might first appear. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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The Pinches | The left arete of the easy chimney. | Edit | Delete |
3 |
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Practice Chimney | The easy chimney on the right. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Dialogue | Fridge hug to a shouldery finish. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Cracked Arete | The right most arete in this group of buttresses. | Edit | Delete |
Night Of Lust (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B |
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Press Direct | The twin cracks on the left of the buttress to finish in the bigger juggy crack. | Edit | Delete |
7A (soft) |
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Press Direct Sit Start | Sit start the twin cracks. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Night Of Lust Left Hand | Work rightwards along the crimpy rail to gain and climb the open groove to the jug at it's top. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Night Of Lust Sit Start | Work up surprisingly unhelpful holds to gain and climb the open groove. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Runnel Entry | From the start of Night Of Lust Sit Start move up and right to the corner cracks. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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California Screamin' | Along to the right is this amazing looking highball blunt arete and prow. E4 6c. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
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Shark's Fin | Up and right of California Screaming is a juggy flake in a big roof. | Edit | Delete |
2 (soft) |
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Shark's Fin Dynos | Various fun dynos can be attempted through the roof around the Sharks fin flake. | Edit | Delete |
Highneken (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B+ |
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Highneken | The prow left of "The Prism" offers a really good highball. Start sitting and move up till a slopey jug is reached, from here tinker leftwards a couple moves before going straight up using, crimps, heals and pinches. The last couple moves are brilliant and are quite committing above a not very friendly landing. | Edit | Delete |
Old Fogey (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7C |
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Upstart | Sit start the underside of the steep left arete of the main buttress. AKA Old Fogey Arete. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Scratches | 20m right of Old Fogey and next to the wall at the end of the crag is scooped slab boulder with an undercut base. Sit start on the right and traverse the very rounded lip left to an exit beside the left left arete. | Edit | Delete |
Ram Raider (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ |
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Ram Raider | 30m or so beyond the wall. Climb the steep cracked arete from a sit start. Originally done using the rail on Ramification at 7a, but it's a better problem avoiding this. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Ramification | Sit start right of Ram Raider. Climb into and up the blunt arete above. | Edit | Delete |
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