Description: Another well hidden woodland jumble, of a similar nature to nearby Stanton-in-the-Woods. In the SW corner of a pine wood quite close to the road into Birchover (from the West), but well obscured from view by the trees. The wood is also home to the Doll Tor Stone Circle and an old quarry (no potential). Sheltered from the wind and tree shrouded it is prone to greenness. The rock is of the usual high quality found in the area, with lots of shapely roundedness.
Access: Currently the ownership and access are not known. The existence of an English Heritage signboard at the stone circle would suggest that at least some level of access is tolerated, but until this is confirmed it is still best considered sensitive and a low profile maintained. With this in mind please approach the rocks by the route described rather than more directly through the fields. The approved approach (as shown on the topo) is from the same roadside parking used for the Andle Stone and the Cork Stone. Gain the Andle Stone across the field from the gate. Head downhill (due West) skirting the first area of woodland on the right. A second walled off area of woodland is then reach with a gate in its top right corner. Cross the gate and follow the wall until the stone circle is reached. Leave the wall here and continue downhill bearing left (no noticeable path at time of writing) in the direction of Birchover. With luck you will soon reach the top of the rocks. In order to maintain a low profile please would visitors keep noise levels down and leave dogs at home if they are of the type likely to attract unnecessary attention.
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The Doll's House (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
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Dollop | Sit start under the rising lip and climb into a difficult rollover/mantel left of the crack. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Trollop | Sit start under the rising lip (as for Dollop) and follow it rightwards to exit up the crack. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Teru Teru Bozu | Lovely high arete with circular pocket on block below the lip boulder | Edit | Delete |
Valley of the Dolls Area (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B+ |
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Gathering Storm | The fine undercut arete on its left side, with help from small pockets leads to a rounded exit on the left. Stand start from the ground. 7b jumping starting from same position. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Gathering Storm block start | Avoid the low crux by starting off the boulder | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Brainstorm | Superb low start to Gathering. Start from the plinth under the roof, span, hook and slap out to glory. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Valley of the Dolls | A class problem up the steepness right of the tree into a delicate rockover onto the slab | Edit | Delete |
Palm Block (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B |
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Palma Anderson | Climb the left side of the small arete/prow. Grade is a stab in the dark. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Palma Violence | Direct up the obvious bulge. Starting with left hand on the side pull. Grade is a guess as it's mantle but I found it trickier than most mantle's I have done in the Peak other than Raw Deal. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Palma Ham | The right side of the block. Grade is anothe stab in the dark. | Edit | Delete |
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info