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Low Slung (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
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Low Slung | Traverse the low boulder, from left to right. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Lower Slung | A lower eliminate version of Low Slung, using poor crimps. From a sitstart on the left arete, swing into the low crimps and make hard moves rightwards to more crimps. From these, slap up and right to the top. | Edit | Delete |
Razor Roof Area (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7C |
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Green Lipped Muscle | Sit start on a round undercut and big sidepull. Follow the rising lip leftwards to finish up Crimps. Early crux then gradually eases. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
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Low Slab Middle | Pull onto the blob and scratch up the slab. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Low Slab Traverse | Pull onto the blob and smear left and down to finish up Low Slab left. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Low Slab Arch | Pull onto the blob and smear leftwards under the arch feature to finish high left on a fluting. | Edit | Delete |
4 (soft) |
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Slab LH | The left slab on its left. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Slab RH | The left slab on its right. | Edit | Delete |
6C (hard) |
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Look at Me! | Chimney and jam through the crack in the roof. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Left Arete | The left of the double aretes, on its right. | Edit | Delete |
4+ |
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Double Aretes | The double aretes on the block left of Razor Roof. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ (hard) |
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Worrying Footwork | The left arete of Razor Roof, using disconcerting foot placements. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Razor Roof | From jugs at the back of the cave, cross the roof and use the razors to cut a dash on the final throw. | Edit | Delete |
7A (hard) |
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Razor Roof Right to Left | Start up Razor Roof then traverse the crimps rightwards to finish up Protrusions | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Protrusions | Start at a low break on the right. Head upwards via protruding crimps. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Razor Roof Link Up | From Protrusions, traverse into Razor Roof. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Slab in the Middle | Between Razor Roof and the Blob Roof is a green slabby wall with an awkward landing. Climb the centre of this. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Crimps | Just right of the wide crack between the slab and the blob roof. Rock rightwards via rugosites. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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The Blob | From a sit start on the blob, somehow gain the lip. Top out slightly rightwards via a high crimp rail | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Thrutch Over | Mount the lip near a small seam, and swim into the runnel above. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Blob Over | On the far right of the blob roof block. Just right of a big sidepull. Hard sloping mantel. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Low Slab LH | A green slab lurks below the rest of the problems. From low on the left, climb upwards. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Low Slab RH | On the right side of the slab, mantel upwards from a start with right hand in crack. | Edit | Delete |
The Egg (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
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Left Slab | Edit | Delete | |
5+ (soft) |
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Central Slab | Scoops point into the slab above. | Edit | Delete |
6B (soft) |
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Blunt Arete | Slopers lead upwards. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Eggs is Eggs | Between Egg Arete and Egged On (Ova Arm). Suction onto the slopiest of slopers using all your gritstone 'feel'. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Egged On (Right Arete) | Use the high flake. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Ova Arm | Sit start to Egged On. Start LH on low sidepull crimp and RH on slopey boss. May need to stack pads to pull on for smaller climbers.. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Blunt Arete Sit Start | Start sitting on the right side of the arete and slap awkwardly into the stand | Edit | Delete |
T Crack (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B (hard) |
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T Crack | From a start on the block at the back, climb through the roof on undercuts and use the crack to reach the break. Powerful moves lead upwards. The footblock to the right is not in, nor is the chip in the break. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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T Crack Footless | Hang holds under the roof and climb footless to the break. Once at this point, feet are allowed. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Mr T | An eliminate on T Crack making the best use of the right arete. Gain crack as per T crack then move right to the arete and climb this. Eliminate all holds in the midway break on T Crack | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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T Crack Slab | The right wall of T-Crack forms a slab. Climb this, with a slap to the final sloper. | Edit | Delete |
Jerry's traverse (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B+ |
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Jerry's Reverse | Reverse Jerry's traverse, from far left, to finish up Cheggers can't be Boozers. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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V Cleft | Mantel the lip at the V-shaped cleft. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Lunge | From the juggy break on the left, lunge to good holds and rockover. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Left of Cheggers | From sitting, gain the left hand gaston of Cheggers as a right hand sidepull. Swing up and left to protrusions and rock up to finish. | Edit | Delete |
7A (soft) |
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Cheggers can't be Boozers - originally called The Lark Ascending | Start at low slots and tackle the leaning wall above. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Jerry's Traverse | From the start of Cheggers can't be Boozers, work leftwards along the break. Finish either at the far left, or up Lunge. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Jerry's Traverse There and Back | Traverse to far left, then return. Finish up Cheggers can't be Boozers. | Edit | Delete |
Boring Traverse (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C |
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Boring Traverse | Traverse the block below Jerry's Traverse, from left to right. | Edit | Delete |
Fun Traverse (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C+ |
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Fun Traverse | The block below Boring Traverse holds a good right to left traverse. | Edit | Delete |
Serpico (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5 (soft) |
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Les and Len | On the back of the Serpico boulder is a nose with a low break. Traverse the breaK L-R past Les and Len to a funny step up using an undercut. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Munching Biscuits | Span right from the starting slot of Serpico to reach and pull into a pothole feature. | Edit | Delete |
4 (soft) |
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Sam's Game | Sit start the left side of the Les and Len arete. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Serpico | From the back, gain the lip via a pocket. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Shunting Biscuits | Start up Serpico, then traverse the ramp leftwards to a mantel finish. | Edit | Delete |
Converted (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
3 |
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Diverted | High easy wall to the left of Converted above the same terrible landing | Edit | Delete |
3 |
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Oatibix Flake | The wall to the right of Converted using a nice crisp finger flake to a rounded top out. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Converted | From scooped undercuts, reach a sloper, footlock in break, then make a big spab to the base of the sloping ramp. From here, head up to the undercut with left hand. Cut loose, foot up, wobble to the top... | Edit | Delete |
Hermit's Cave (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B |
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Sleight of Hand | Highball arete starting toward the RH end of the traverse on a high chipped gutter. E4 6a in old money | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Problem 33 | Just right of the end of the Hermit's Cave traverse, the wall continues above a sloping polished ledge. Climb the centre of this on finger slopes to a massive jug and easy exit left. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Hermit's Cave Traverse | From the bars, swing rightwards. Finish at the crescent shaped crack. | Edit | Delete |
Hidden Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
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Steep Arete | From the low shelf, ascend the steep arete. | Edit | Delete |
Groove Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
4 |
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Slabs | The block just next to the Groove boulder has lots of easy slab problems. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
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Back Wall | The back of the groove boulder. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Chipped Arete. | The arete left of the groove, from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Dawes's Scoop | The tricky groove. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Dawes's Scoop Sitstart | Hard from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Groove Traverse | From the groove, traverse slopers on the lip, to finish up the arete. | Edit | Delete |
Chipped Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
4 |
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Left Slab | The slab left of the arete. Try avoiding the chips. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
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Arete | The chipped arete. | Edit | Delete |
4+ |
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Right Slab | Try avoiding the chip. The arete is out. | Edit | Delete |
Easy Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
4+ |
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Scoop | Edit | Delete | |
4+ |
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Arete | The arete on its left. | Edit | Delete |
4+ |
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Runnel | Climb the runnel. | Edit | Delete |
Arete Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
4 |
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Flake | Left of the arete. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Arete | Climb the arete on its left. | Edit | Delete |
5+ (hard) |
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The Rib | Use the pinch to ascend the rib. No arete. | Edit | Delete |
Tall Slab (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5 |
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Slab Left | Climb the left side of the slab. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Pockets | Climb the slabby wall, using pockets. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Right Arete | Climb the arete via a pocket. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
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Ramp | Right of the tall slab boulder is a slab with a rampline. Climb this. | Edit | Delete |
Slopey Green Traverse (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
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Low Slung | Behind and right of the Tall Slab boulder, sitstart this block on its left arete, move into the high break then on rightwards to finish via the scoop. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Lower Slung | Start and finish as for Low Slung, but use the low crimps in the middle rather than the high break. | Edit | Delete |
Tit Traverse (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
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Tit Traverse | Start on the left and grope rightwards. | Edit | Delete |
Fern Hill (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
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Pleasant Street | On the base of the crag in the area below Suicide Wall. Start on a black jug just right of a thin crack (start of route Renaissance)traverse the sloping lip rightwards to finish on the jutting beak at the start of the route Requiem. A spotter is advisable on the cutloose. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Three Hundred Pounds of Musclin' Man | The direct start to the obvious arete. Finish at the break. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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An Extra Pound Of Musclin Man | Sitstart Three Hundred Pounds of Musclin Man. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Percy's Cornflake | In the small cave on the left wall of the gully, start from a jug on the right. Climb the wall to the break. | Edit | Delete |
The Arch (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C+ |
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The Arch | Climb the arch from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Arete | The right arete, from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
Brian's Private Arete (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B |
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Brian's Private Arete | Sitstart the right arete using specific holds: start from left hand undercut and right hand arete. Now pull on and leap for the top. | Edit | Delete |
Brain Dead (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B |
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Near Death Experience | The undercut slab/wall left of Brain Dead. Pull on with obvious crimp in the hairline crack, use this and poor smears to gain crimp rail, reachy. Rock up on rail to gain finishing jug of Brain Dead. No stepping in off the tree at the start. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Brain Dead | The impressive sharp arete. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Brain Dead Low Start | The impressive sharp arete, from a low start. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Lost Arete | On a boulder behind Brain dead. There is a good hold at half height. | Edit | Delete |
Sparrow (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C+ |
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Thigh Master | Just below the Sparrow/Watermelon block is steep hanging prow. Looks a bit like a miniaturised Clippety Clop. Climb this without the base blocks. Might be harder than 6c+ without a kneepad wrapped round your thigh! | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Sparrow / My Best Friend The Watermelon | The start is the crux. Layback up the 45 degree arete for a few moves, then employ a heel and some hand shuffling. From here, the next few moves to the jug are reported to be easy if the heel stays on. If not, it's a frightening landing... | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Sparrow's Right Wing | The right arete of the block. | Edit | Delete |
Babu Yagu (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ |
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Grimoire | The Chess Boxer arete on its right. Hard moves over the bulge and committing climbing above. | Edit | Delete |
7A (soft) |
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Bonfire of the Manatees | The roof and arete right of Grimoire. Start in the back with one hand on the square boulder. Climb out via ramp and pocket (eliminating footholds on both sidewalls) to the blunt arete and follow it to the top of the block. | Edit | Delete |
7B (hard) |
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Babu Yagu | Follow the finger ramp left of Grimoire to its end, then out to a good hold on the arete. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Chess Boxer | Climb the steep, undercut arete (Grimoire E6 climbs up its right side). High, but the dodgy step in the landing has now been filled with logs to give a decent platform. | Edit | Delete |
Hueco Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
2 (soft) |
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6A+ |
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Soaperstition | Steep wall on left side of gully to the immediate right of Hueco Wall. Start on crimps in break right of the nose and make a long reach up to the nice rib/arete feature. Finish by a stylish mantle using a dish for right hand. Has cleaned up well. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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House of the Holey | A sit start and direct finish to Chapel of Rest. Tack up the ramp (crack is in for feet) to the left hueco and then push on direct to top out via high fluting. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Soap Dodger | An extension start into Soaperstition. Start on the narrow ledge above Hueco Wall and traverse the break rightwards around the hanging nose and into Soaperstition to finish. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Percy's Start | Pull onto the ramp and slap for the break. Follow this to the far right. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Percy's Start into Chapel of Rest | Link Percy's Start into Chapel of Rest. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Percy's Start into Wish | Link Percy's Start into Wish. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Chapel of Rest | From the left Hueco, go for the slopey top. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Wish | Undercut the right hueco and make for a hidden hold over the top. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Break Traverse | Follow the tricky break from right to left, finishing up the left arete. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Brother Lee Love | Just right of Hueco Wall, climb the small undecut prow to finish up the slab feature. | Edit | Delete |
Percy's Roof (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ |
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72 | From matched on the big hole in the roof, climb leftwards to the boss on the lip. From here, follow the slopey rail left to a mantel finish. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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72 Direct | Start up 72. Once at the boss on the lip foolow the hanging arete to its end. | Edit | Delete |
7B (hard) |
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P Crack | Climb the centre of the roof, from sitting at the back pocket. Use pockets to reach a sloper below the lip, then employ toe hooks in the hueco to attain the hanging crack. Follow this to the top. | Edit | Delete |
Basic Block (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6A |
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Slot Ladder | The left side of the side wall from a sit start in a hole | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
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Edgucation | The middle/right of the side wall from sitting | Edit | Delete |
Scoops Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ |
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Pinchers' Wall | The centre of the wall from a reachy stand start (some will next extra pad width to reach start holds). Use a flared pinch and poor dink to slap for a thin rail and easy topout. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Little Greenie Arete | The sharp left arete of the crack from sitting (at the start of the route Little Greenie). Harder and less pleasant than it looks due to polish. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Pinchers' Wall Sit | A tricky sit start. | Edit | Delete |
North Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A (soft) |
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Invasion of the Cider Women Direct | The crux of an old Andy Barker route which started high on the left off the boulder, cleaned and with a quality direct start added. Climb to a pocket high on the left via the beautiful ramp/stairway. Rock right to a slot and then make a big (crux) move to the break. Trav off or finish as per the route up juggy pockets out right. | Edit | Delete |
Tim's Flute (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5 |
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Tim's Flute | L-R traverse the flutings to slopers and then mantel it out on the gulley side. | Edit | Delete |
4+ (hard) |
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Tim's Mantle | Mantle through the rounded section of the Tim's Flute traverse | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Marc's Scheme | Sit start the right arete using a low left crimp and the rail in the gully for the right. Finish by moving left to do Tim's Mantle | Edit | Delete |
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info