Description: Picture topo of cave area: https://peakboulderingimages.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/photo/image/1136/standard_ECtopo.jpg
Access: Eastwood is banned, though it has been noted that discreet visits may pass unnoticed.
Ascents: Show recent ascents.
Updates: Show latest updates.
Cave Buttress (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A (soft) |
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Bristol Dreaming | The highball (E4!) left arete of the buttress, using the crack on it's right. Doesn't ease until the very end. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Hats for Percys | Use small crimps just right of (and without using) the left arete to reach a gaston at the base of the crack, then reach back left to jugs next to the arete. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Hats for Weasels | Sit start Hats for Percys from the jugs under the lip of the roof. | Edit | Delete |
7C (soft) |
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Hats for Weasels Low Start | Start Hats for Weasels from the back of the roof. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Hats for Clowns | Jump start to the sidepull at the base of the crack, using the undercut crack down to the right, then pull up and left to finish on the jugs next to the arete. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Westwood | Sit start Hats for clowns from the lip of the roof. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Hats for Clowns/ Westwood Standing Start | Pull on from standing before reaching the sidepull at the base of the crack. | Edit | Delete |
8A (hard) |
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Hats for Youths | Start up Westwood then continue up the finger crack, eliminating the arete. | Edit | Delete |
8A (hard) |
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The Pessimist | Starts sitting with both hands on the large diagonal jug 4 moves into the eastwood traverse. From here take a diagonal line up and left above the eastwood traverse via a gnarly gaston rockover and finish up hats for youths. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Eastwood Traverse | Start sitting under Corpse Crack and traverse left to finish on a good break on the base of the slab at the far left hand side of the buttress. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Eastwood Reverse | The left to right version of the traverse is also excellent. Sit start matched on the crimp rail (2nd to last hold on the R-L), finish on the jug/ledge right of Corpse Crack. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Rubble Rouser | Start sitting below Ten Inch Zombies, traverse left as for The Eastwood Traverse as far as the midway jug then drop down and follow a lower line of holds to rejoin the higher trav at its last move. A kneepad is useful for a rest along the way. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Corpse Crack | Climb the central hand crack to the half way ledge. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Ten Inch Zombies | Crimp up chicken heads to the right of Corpse Crack to reach the half height break. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Jon's Traverse | Start under Corpse Crack, and traverse rightwards down the vague slopey break to pull into the groove. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
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The Groove | The slabby groove. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Grimper Left Hand | Pull leftwards through the overlap on improving holds. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Grimper | Round the corner right of the easy slab is a wall with an overlap at half height. Climb this up its centre to slots then the big crack. | Edit | Delete |
6B (hard) |
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Worm in a Teacup | On wall right of the Grimper at Eastwood. Start on the right, traverse a sloping shelf to gain the hanging shield, then continue left along high break into corner. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Lip of Fools | R-L along the high lip above Worm in a Teacup then up the middle to an escape left at the break. Done originally as a trad route but since highballed. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Percy's Highball | Walking right from cave buttress is a steep arete with a thin crack on its right, which eases in angle above. Dirty at the moment. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Witch's Milk | Specified start holds (see topo). Exit left into last moves of the Eastwood Traverse | Edit | Delete |
8A+ |
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Bone Machine | A high level start to Eastwood traverse (R to L version) using the lovely undercut rib feature. Start on the ledge at the base of the crack and burl along undercuts and small lip holds to a hard drop down into the midway jug, then finish as per the Eastwood Traverse. Bring kneepads! The UK's answer to The Vice in Rocklands. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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11 Inch Zombies | A sit start to Ten Inch Zombies, from down and slightly left. | Edit | Delete |
Sublux Roof (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C+ |
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The Flakes | Climb the thin flakes on the left side of the roof, from sitting, to top out direct. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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The Flakes (strict) | Slightly harder without the footledge. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ (hard) |
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Sublux | The centre of the roof, starting on a small sidepull with your left and an undercut with your right. From the jug on the lip reach up and rock rightwards to finish. Powerful stuff. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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IDB | Climb the vague arete from sitting, using slopey crimps. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Holly Dab | Sitstart as for IDB, but reach right to use the large layaway hold. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Lip Traverse | Traverse the lip of the roof from right to left, finishing up the arete. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Farmers Pride | Climb the high juggy arete behind the Sublux Roof | Edit | Delete |
Pen Six Roof (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7C (soft) |
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Pen Six | At the left side of the roof, left of the plinth. From a low sit start on twin sidepulls (a sidepull and a gaston) reach a horizontal crimpy ear, then the ramp and juggy fin above to top out leftwards. No foot ledges. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Juggy Wall | The left hand of two sit starts at the right side of the roof. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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The Other One | The right hand of two sit starts at the right side of the roof. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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The Hard Way | Behind and to the right of the Pen Six Roof is a right to left lip traverse. | Edit | Delete |
Nod's Buttress (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5 |
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QED II | The sheer side wall of the buttress has two diagonal cracks in it reach the second from the first, then the top. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Seismic Start | Climb the left arete of the buttress from a sit start through the steepness, then use a pocket to reach easier ground above. Finish in the wide break. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Culpeper's Practice | From the left end of the juggy handrail in the roof work up leftwards to the scoop in the slab above, using crimps and slopers. Easier climbing above the scoop gains the wide break to finish. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Free Range | Follow the juggy rail in the roof rightwards, to pull over on juggy pockets, and finish up the easy slab. | Edit | Delete |
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