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Description: Most of the problems are in the lower grades and give good climbing on sound rock. Blackstone Edge takes the brunt of all the weather in the area! In winter it can be very cold, but cold crisp days are often the most rewarding. Some problems are a little green, but plenty are fast drying. Some holds are scrittly, but this is improving with traffic. Overall, a mat and a spotter are of benefit but a good day can be had on your tod. Explore and enjoy! From the large car park next to the White House, cross the road and walk down hill to the obvious path. A short uphill section leads to a drain which is followed rightwards to a cross roads with the old Roman road. For a first visit the best option is to continue following the channel, then strike directly uphill to the section required. Once knowledge of the layout is gained, it may be better to follow the roman road to the top of the crag, then follow the Pennine Way Southwards. Approach to the first areas takes around 20 minutes. See Gareth Wallis's pdf guide for more details: http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/images/d/d8/Blackstone_Edge.pdf
Access: No problems.
Ascents: Show recent ascents.
Updates: Show latest updates.
Robin's Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
4 |
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Dirty Cracks | Sitstart the cracks. Can be dirty. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Featured Wall | Sit start and climb the featured wall. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Pleasant Arete | Sit start the left arete of Robin's Wall. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Robin's Wall | Sit start on pockets, then use the slot to get the top. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Right Arete | Sit start the right arete, often dirty. | Edit | Delete |
Blackstone Best (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
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Backside Slab | On the backside of the boulder, climb the slab left of and without the arete. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Backside Mantel | On the backside of the boulder, sitstart on the edge. Mantel 5straight up. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Backside Nose | On the backside of the boulder, Sitstart the nose on crimps. Use a higher crimp to slap the nose, then up. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Concave Arete | The left arete of the concave face. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Concave Traverse | Start up the left arete, traverse the break and finish up the right arete. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Concave Wall | A technical problem up the wall. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Robin's Dyno | Dyno from the good crimp to the jug in the break. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Concave Right | The right arete is another good problem | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
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Fridge Hugger | From standing, climb the prow just right of the concave boulder. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Fridge Hugger Sitstart | Sit start on the rail. No blocks for feet. Slap the left arete, then hug up the prow. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Disappointing Groove | The groove right of Fridge Hugger. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Cracking Groove | The crack and groove up the centre. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Blackstone Best | Use both aretes to reach the top. The grade is for starting off the ground, not stepping off the boulder. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Ramp Wall | Hang the ramp and then top out. | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
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Ramp Traverse | Traverse left without the top to finish up the arete. | Edit | Delete |
The Fortress Delete | ||||||
Robin's Slap (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B |
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Robin's Slap | The left arete, from sitting (sidepull and incut). Pull on and slap the top. The top out can require a quick clean when gritty. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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One Mover | The wall to the right. Sit start on the crimp, get the top. | Edit | Delete |
Offwidth Block (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
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Offwidth Arete | Sitstart the left arete. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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The Offwidth | A slappy sit-start to the alluring feature. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Offwidth Traverse | Sit start on the right and traverse the lip to finish up the arete. | Edit | Delete |
The Anvil (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
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Gnome Arete | The small arete just left of the Anvil, from sitting. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Left Wall | A bit of a slap to the sloping top, then mantel. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Lungefish | A good problem which climbs directly to the obvious notch. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Right Runnel | Directly up into the next runnel feature. Watch the landing. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Anvil Arete | The height dependant overhanging arete. | Edit | Delete |
Triangulation Point (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6A |
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Nik's Slab | The attractive slab round to the right of the main area, taken at the centre. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Low Roof | The hardest line through the low roof to the right. | Edit | Delete |
Hueco Block (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B |
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Uphill Arete | The higher arete climbed using the seam on the right. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Ape Hour | Pull on to sidepulls and a sloper. A powerful move to the top. Stay off the right arete jugs. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Hueco Arete | Climb the arete, via the huecos. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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The Blackstone Slab | The centre of the slab (no arete) is excellent. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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You're on Crack | Climb the slab without arete holds, starting from the vertical crack. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Tall Arete | Climb the arete on its left. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Tall Arete Right | Climb the arete on its right, with a dodgy landing. | Edit | Delete |
Lower Block (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C |
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No Arete | The wall just right of the arete is tricky. Using the pinch/undercut is a popular method, though there are probably other solutions. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Slabby Wall | Easily up the slabby wall | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
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Another Arete | Sitstart the pleasant left arete, and climb it on its right throughout. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Crack Left | Sitstart the crack on the downhill face, use the pocket for your right hand, then up. Great. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Crack Right | Same start, but slap right to the sloper (no arete) and finish without the pocket. Another quality set of moves. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Bog Arete | Sitstart the arete on its right. A tarpaulin may be useful. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Shortarse | Sitstart. Climb the wall on positive holds. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Nik's Traverse | Sit start the arete and traverse left without the top. A nice technical sequence which is tenuous when rounding the arete. Finish up problem Slabby Wall or better round the arete to its left. Awesome. | Edit | Delete |
Edge Behind Hueco Block (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B |
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Naomi's Wall | The fun wall left of the Curving Arete, climbed without either arete. Dimples to pull on, then slap to the crack and up. A sitter looks barely possible. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Curving Arete | Directly behind the boulders is an appealing curving arete. Climb this from sitting. Harder if you start matched on the sloper. | Edit | Delete |
Far Right Edge Delete | ||||||
Back Edge I (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
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Nik's Groove | Sitstart the twin groove features, without using the left arete. Tenuous. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Not Nik's Groove | Nik's Groove, plus the left arete. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Nose | Sit start. Climb the blunt arete on slopers. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Nik's Left | The blunt arete on its left from a sneaky sit start. Good moves. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Nik's Arete | The arete and crack to the right, finishing rightwards via the pocket. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Back Flake | The flake / crack from standing. | Edit | Delete |
Back Edge II (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C |
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Nick's Slap | A difficult sit (lying!) start leads to a slap to the sloping lip, then a scrabble to the top. | Edit | Delete |
Back Edge III (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
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Cocklewarmer | Sitstart the wall to the right. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Sergeant Jump | Sitstart just right of the arete and undercut up to a finger bucket. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Home Improvements Right | Sitstart at the flatty and pull to crimps near the arete, then up. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Home Improvements | Sitstart at the flatty and crimp up to a good hold. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Home Improvements Left | Sitstart at the flatty, make a move to the left, then finish using Try Me holds. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Nibble My Grit | Sitstart and use the rib. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Hand Holed | Sitstart and go for the large pocket. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Try Me | Sitstart via a left hand pocket, then straight up. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Patiopia | As per Obvious Traverse, but stay beneath the pocket on Hand Holed. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Obvious Traverse | Follow the obvious traverse from the sloper right of the arete, to finish up Hand Holed. | Edit | Delete |
Back Edge IV (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
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The Runnel | Sitstart and go directly to the runnel. | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Pocket Dyno | From the holds in the low break just right, dyno to the runnel. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Polly Pocket | Sit start just left of the arete. Go to the obvious crimp, then the top. No arete holds allowed. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Pocket Arete | Sit start and climb the arete on its right. | Edit | Delete |
Main Crag (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B |
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Wrestle Down the Wind | On the short boulder just in front and to the right of the main crag, sitstart the groove (try a high left heel). Pull upwards to the lip and then battle through the groove. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Recalibrate | On the Little Miss Id wall, sitstart crimps just right of centre and crank to the break. Make a few more moves to finish on the high slopers. | Edit | Delete |
7A (soft) |
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1975 | LH side of the wall - from a sit. | Edit | Delete |
Midway Boulders - First Blocks Delete | ||||||
Midway Boulders - The Roof (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B |
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The Lady's Not for Gurning | Squat on the plinth and undercut out to the lip. Choose your slopers and fight upwards. | Edit | Delete |
Midway Boulders - Slopey Top Delete | ||||||
Midway Boulders - Low Roof Delete |
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info