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Anston Stones - Limestone
Description: Popular limestone bouldering on a scattering of buttress throughout the woods.
Access: Access is fragile, but tolerated. Please behave responsibly and help keep access possible. To get to the main area (dark arts roof etc), park in an obvious large lay-by on the north side of the A57, about 1km east on Anston. Follow the obvious footpath from the east end of the lay-by into the woods. Follow the path down a hill, bearing left along the river at the bottom. This path leads you under a railway arch. A few hundred meters further on, a right turning leads back under the railway via a smaller arch - dark arts roof is on the right of this path shortly after the railway.
Ascents: Show recent ascents.
Updates: Show latest updates.
Top 10 problems: (view all problems)
All problems: (view only the best problems)
| Woody's Rock (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7A |
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The Unnamed | From tufas, head up and left. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B |
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The Reformist | Start on tufas, but from the crimps head up and right to a finishing hold. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B+ |
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Swampy | Start LH on right0hand tufa. Go for lip, then gain top via pockets. | Edit | Delete | |
| 8A+ |
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Vanilla Sky | Start LH crack, RH undercut at the back. Go for RH crack pinch, then the lip and finish direct. Stay off holds on Swampy. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Grape Crusher | Start on the jug on the left of the roof. Gain and finish up Trench Warfare. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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Trench Warfare | Start at the back and follow the crack out. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C |
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Dangerous Action Man Wrestling | From the Grape Crusher start, go straight through the roof using a mono. Eliminate arete holds. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C (hard) |
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Soul Crusher | From the back right, start on twin undercuts. Gain the crack and follow this into Grape Crusher. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C+ |
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Soul Crusher Sitstart | Edit | Delete | ||
| 7C |
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Wrestling With My Dangerous Soul | Start up Soul Crusher, finish iup Dangerous Action Man Wrestling. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5+ |
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Woody's Rock Traverse | Traverse the lip. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Woody's Rock Footless Traverse | Traverse the lip footless. | Edit | Delete | |
| Bullet Roof (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7A+ |
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Colt | Edit | Delete | ||
| 7C+ |
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Magnum Eliminate | Edit | Delete | ||
| 7C |
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Bullet | Edit | Delete | ||
| 8A+ |
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Revolver | Edit | Delete | ||
| 7B |
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Tech Nine | Edit | Delete | ||
| 7A+ |
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Beretta | Edit | Delete | ||
| 7B |
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Beretta Extension | Edit | Delete | ||
| Dark Art Roof (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7A+ |
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Fine Art | From sitting, climb the arete on the left of the buttress. | Edit | Delete | |
| 8A |
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Dark Art | From the layaway at the back, climb through the rough to the lip, then head left to finish up the arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Beta Blocker | From hanging the lip jug, head upwards using pockets. Finish at the big undercut beneath the tree. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B+ |
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Black Tufa | From sitting at the black tufa, aim for the lip hold on Beta Blocker. Continue up this. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B |
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Reservation | From sitting at the plinth, tackle the roof. From crimps at the lip, go right, then rockover leftwards to a higher pocket. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C |
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Fine Beta | Start up Fine Art, but at the lip head right to link into Beta Blocker. | Edit | Delete | |
| 8A |
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Dark Beta | Start up Dark Art, but at the lip head right to link into Beta Blocker. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C |
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Black Tufa Start To Reservation. | Start up Black Tufa Start, then at the lip jug traverse into Reservation. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C+ (soft) |
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Black Crow | Climb the black roof from sitting, to a finishing pocket beneath the capping roof. | Edit | Delete | |
| 8A |
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White Light | From sitting at the right side of the roof, crimp to a crozzly pinch, then aim for a decent hold left of corner crack. Follow the arete to the top. | Edit | Delete | |
| 8A+ |
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White Light Direct | White Light without the the edge left of the corner or the jug. Finish up the arete on its right. | Edit | Delete | |
| 8B+ |
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Fire In The Rain | Start up White Light Direct, but eliminate all good holds on the side wall. Keep left beneath the roof, using crap right hand holds only. Finish up the arete on its left. | Edit | Delete | |
| Wave Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 5 |
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Wave Wall Corner | Edit | Delete | ||
| 6C |
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Crimps Wall | The wall to the right of the corner, with crimps. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B+ |
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The Tufa | Start on the sidepull and undercut. Climb using the tufa as a sidepull. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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The Wave Direct | Edit | Delete | ||
| 6B |
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Wave Right Hand | Edit | Delete | ||
| 6B |
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Little Big Pocket | Edit | Delete | ||
| 7A |
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Blue Circles | Three holds are marked with blue circles. Use these to start. Climb into the small crack and finish on an edge up and left. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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No Circles | Just right of Blue Circles, start LH gaston, RH two finger edge. Throw the layback hold up and left. Finish on the jug. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A+ |
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The Shield | Edit | Delete | ||
| 6C+ |
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Shallow | Start RH edge, LH sidepull. Climb to the protruding small prow. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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The End | The wall to the left of the ivy, with a crux move for the finish holds. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C+ |
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The End Sitstart | Edit | Delete | ||
| Ebola Buttress (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 5 |
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Left Wall | Edit | Delete | ||
| 5 |
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Centre Wall | Edit | Delete | ||
| 5 |
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Right Wall | Edit | Delete | ||
| 6B |
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The Undercut | Sitstart using an undercut. Head straight up via a pocket. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Blind Bat | Start on the left side of the rail the Last Stand begins on and head upwards via a long first move. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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last stand | Edit | Delete | ||
| 7C |
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The Vision | Sitstart right of the undercut, at two monos. Use the right mono for RH. Gain a LH sloper, then move up via crimps and a pocket. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C |
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Resonate | Start on the large undercut. Get RH dish then a large move to gain twin undercuts. Another big move leads to a decent hold at a small ledge. Match this to finish. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C |
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Ebola | Start at a decent RH sidepull. Pull on and get a heel-toe on the edge. Stretch for the two-finger pocket, then RH to an edge, then up and left to finish in the same place as Resonate. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B+ |
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The Overlooked | Straight up the wall right of Ebola via small holds and a heel hook. Finish on a jug. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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Slight Line | The wall just left of the arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5 |
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The Arete | The arete and wall to the right. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A+ |
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Twenty Four Pint Nine | Start as per Last Stand and traverse slopers into the finish of Alpha. | Edit | Delete | |
| 8A |
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Quarantine | Start as per The Undercut, then traverse right along the obvious crimp line. Finish along Twenty Four Point Nine. | Edit | Delete | |
| Rocky Valley Roof (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 6C |
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Out Of The Darkness | Start at the boss and climb leftwards to exit the roof. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C |
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Into The Light | Start at the boss and climb rightwards to gain a decent hold beneath the lip. Finish straight up. | Edit | Delete | |
| 8A |
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Into The Light Direct | From the slot right of the boss, climb straight out to join the normal finish. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C+ |
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Shadow Dance | Start next to the footledge at the back. Make big moves to climb straight out. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C+ |
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Dark Night | Start right of Shadow Dance and climb out to gain the big lip hold with LH. Move right at the top. | Edit | Delete | |
| Hidden Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 5+ |
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Eliminate Wall | The wall left of the crack. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A+ |
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The Crack | To the tree. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B |
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Dirty Harry | Start RH flake, go up and left to the udercut. Then RH crimp and LH hidden crimp. Then decent hold and finish pocket below roof. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B+ |
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Jack The Nipper | Start from the undercut flake. Climb into the groove and finish on a jug in the roof. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C |
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Freemason | Edit | Delete | ||
| 7B+ |
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Lucas Skywalker | Edit | Delete | ||
| 6B+ |
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Fire Wall | Edit | Delete | ||
| 7C |
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Seaman Stains | Edit | Delete | ||
| 7B+ |
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Everything Before | Edit | Delete | ||
| 6C+ |
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Screaming Dream | Edit | Delete | ||
| Duke's Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7C |
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Filthy Duke | From pockets, head to a RH sidepull, then a LH sloper, then a big move to the flatty. Finish leftwards as per Red Duke. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C |
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Red Duke | From undercuts beneath the bulge, gain slopers up and left then a flatty to the right. Head up and left via sidepull/undercut and finish on the high jug. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Dark Lady | On the right side of the wall, sitstart and pull up the black bosses. Climb rightwards at the top. | Edit | Delete | |
| Apprentice Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 7A+ (soft) |
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Apprentice Prow | Prow on the left from sitting | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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Apprentice Wall | Great problem up the centre of the wall from sitting | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A+ |
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The Rookie | Wall to the right from sitting, taking the flake as a press with the left hand | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A+ (hard) |
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The Cookie | The Rookie starting as for Apprentice Wall, moving R at the flake/pinch (and obviously not using the high jug on AW). Not really a problem, but harder and better climbing than on The Rookie. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B (hard) |
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Spider Crab Blues | A very tight line, but with good climbing. Start as for AP, do a hard move up, then head right to the flake on AW (without recourse to the huge juggy pockets on AP). Match the flake and finish as for TR. Might be 7B+, a grade or so harder than the equally stupid problem claimed as 'Sir Alan' at a wishful 7B+. The high jug on AW is (obviously) off route. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A+ |
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Sir Alan | Start as for SCB, but on reaching the flake, finish direct as for AW. | Edit | Delete | |
| Through Post (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 6A+ |
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Left Arete | Edit | Delete | ||
| 6B+ |
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Red Streak | Climb the red streak, staying off the arete. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7C |
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The Assassin | Climb straight up to and through the small roof, without big holds on the problem to the right. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A |
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The Crack Left Hand | The crack on its left. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5+ |
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The Crack Right Hand | The crack on its left. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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The Wall | The wall right of the crack, staying off the good holds used on that problem. Finish through the roof. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B |
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Mean Streak | Climb the grey streak from pockets, staying off big holds to the right. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A |
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Right Arete | Edit | Delete | ||
| Turnpost (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 5+ |
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Left Wall | Start RH flake near pod. Climb upwards using undercuts. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6C |
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The Turnpost | Sitstart LH sidepull pinch, RH undercutting pocket.Stay off flakes to the side. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6A |
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The Prow | Climb the prow from sitting at the juggy flake. | Edit | Delete | |
| 5+ |
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Right Wall | Starting left of the ledges, climb slight the groove from sitting at the scoop. | Edit | Delete | |
| Frodo (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
| 6C+ |
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Rivendell | A sitter from the big low holds. Gain small holds near the crack and go for the big lip hold. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B |
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Rohan | Sitstart at big low holds and climb the crack right of Rivendell. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7A |
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Saruman | Right of Rihan, sitstart from the sticky out edge. Use small crimps and a layaway to reach the lip. Avoid footledges. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B+ |
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Frodo | From sitting, pull past decent crimps to a RH slot pinch, then use the undercut to make a bid for the lip. | Edit | Delete | |
| 7B |
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Nazgul Left Hand | From sitting at the big ledge, head straight up via the LH crimp and RH pinch, then finish past the double pocket. | Edit | Delete | |
| 6B+ |
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Samwise | Sitstart at the spike. Climb the wall above. | Edit | Delete | |
- TomTom sent The Cookie, Apprentice Wall, Anston Stones, date: Wednesday 12 Sep 2018, details
- TomTom sent Apprentice Prow, Apprentice Wall, Anston Stones, date: Wednesday 05 Sep 2018, details
- TomTom sent last stand, Ebola Buttress, Anston Stones, date: Tuesday 29 May 2018, details
- TomTom sent Colt, Bullet Roof, Anston Stones, date: Monday 21 May 2018, details
- andy_e sent Colt, Bullet Roof, Anston Stones, date: Friday 29 Apr 2016, details
- andy_e sent Fine Art, Dark Art Roof, Anston Stones, date: Friday 29 Apr 2016, details
- BRidal sent Black Crow, Dark Art Roof, Anston Stones, date: Saturday 14 Mar 2015, details
- andy_e sent Apprentice Wall, Apprentice Wall, Anston Stones, date: Sunday 28 Sep 2014, details
Latest Problem Updates:
- Beretta Extension, Bullet Roof, Anston Stones updated on 15/03/2017 at 04:42PM
- Fine Art, Dark Art Roof, Anston Stones updated on 29/04/2016 at 02:03PM
- Colt, Bullet Roof, Anston Stones updated on 29/04/2016 at 02:01PM
- Black Crow, Dark Art Roof, Anston Stones updated on 24/10/2015 at 04:30PM
- Apprentice Wall, Apprentice Wall, Anston Stones updated on 03/10/2014 at 12:48PM
- Sir Alan, Apprentice Wall, Anston Stones updated on 16/07/2014 at 09:31AM
- Spider Crab Blues, Apprentice Wall, Anston Stones updated on 16/07/2014 at 09:26AM
- The Cookie, Apprentice Wall, Anston Stones updated on 10/07/2014 at 07:08AM
- Shallow, Wave Wall, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 11:26AM
- The End Sitstart, Wave Wall, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 11:25AM
- The End, Wave Wall, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 11:24AM
- The Shield, Wave Wall, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 11:23AM
- No Circles, Wave Wall, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 11:23AM
- Blue Circles, Wave Wall, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 11:22AM
- Little Big Pocket, Wave Wall, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 11:21AM
- Wave Right Hand, Wave Wall, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 11:20AM
- The Wave Direct, Wave Wall, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 11:20AM
- The Tufa, Wave Wall, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 11:20AM
- Crimps Wall, Wave Wall, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 11:19AM
- Wave Wall Corner, Wave Wall, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 11:18AM
- Left Wall, Ebola Buttress, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 12:17AM
- Centre Wall, Ebola Buttress, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 12:17AM
- Right Wall, Ebola Buttress, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 12:17AM
- The Undercut, Ebola Buttress, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 12:17AM
- last stand, Ebola Buttress, Anston Stones updated on 08/05/2014 at 12:17AM
- Dirty Harry, Hidden Wall, Anston Stones updated on 06/04/2014 at 11:37PM
- Jack The Nipper, Hidden Wall, Anston Stones updated on 06/04/2014 at 11:37PM
- Freemason, Hidden Wall, Anston Stones updated on 06/04/2014 at 11:37PM
- Eliminate Wall, Hidden Wall, Anston Stones updated on 06/04/2014 at 11:37PM
- The Crack, Hidden Wall, Anston Stones updated on 06/04/2014 at 11:37PM
- Dark Lady, Duke's Wall, Anston Stones updated on 06/04/2014 at 11:30PM
- Red Duke, Duke's Wall, Anston Stones updated on 06/04/2014 at 11:27PM
- Filthy Duke, Duke's Wall, Anston Stones updated on 06/04/2014 at 11:25PM
- Nazgul Left Hand, Frodo, Anston Stones updated on 06/04/2014 at 11:18PM
- Samwise, Frodo, Anston Stones updated on 06/04/2014 at 11:15PM
- Frodo, Frodo, Anston Stones updated on 06/04/2014 at 11:13PM
- Saruman, Frodo, Anston Stones updated on 06/04/2014 at 11:12PM
- Rohan, Frodo, Anston Stones updated on 06/04/2014 at 11:10PM
- Rivendell, Frodo, Anston Stones updated on 06/04/2014 at 11:10PM
- Quarantine, Ebola Buttress, Anston Stones updated on 28/03/2014 at 03:00PM
- Twenty Four Pint Nine, Ebola Buttress, Anston Stones updated on 28/03/2014 at 02:59PM
- The Arete, Ebola Buttress, Anston Stones updated on 28/03/2014 at 02:59PM
- Slight Line, Ebola Buttress, Anston Stones updated on 28/03/2014 at 02:58PM
- The Overlooked, Ebola Buttress, Anston Stones updated on 28/03/2014 at 02:58PM
- Ebola, Ebola Buttress, Anston Stones updated on 28/03/2014 at 02:57PM
- Resonate, Ebola Buttress, Anston Stones updated on 28/03/2014 at 02:55PM
- Soul Crusher, Woody's Rock, Anston Stones updated on 27/03/2014 at 11:53AM
- Soul Crusher Sitstart, Woody's Rock, Anston Stones updated on 27/03/2014 at 11:53AM
- Screaming Dream, Hidden Wall, Anston Stones updated on 06/03/2014 at 01:54PM
- Everything Before, Hidden Wall, Anston Stones updated on 06/03/2014 at 01:54PM
