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Description: Some of the best bouldering in Yorkshire and possibly in the UK. Superb solid gritstone offering a wide range of problems in a compact setting. It is exposed and can get very windy! This also means it dries fast and is often a good bet on a winter's day, or summer evening.
Access: Park in the BIG lay by on the western side of the crag (NOT in front of the farm to the south). Please avoid tramping across the middle of the farmer's field and do not clamber over the stone walls. No climbing on the "Pair Of Trousers" boulder in the field below the Keel. It looks rubbish anyway.
Ascents: Show recent ascents.
Updates: Show latest updates.
End Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B+ |
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Slopey Traverse | Its a traverse - and its slopey. Start to the left of the wall and slap leftwards, around the corner and up Morrells wall. Often do-able in Summer as N.Facing.. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Slopey Traverse Extension | Start as per Slopey Traverse but instead of finishing up Morrell's Wall, reverse the pocket traverse and finish rocking round the arete. | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
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Morrell's Wall | Climb the obvious face right of the corner. From large holds to a sidepull on the face and crimps up left. The first crimp recently broke, making the problem harder. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Morrells Wall Variation | wall | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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crack sitstart | Edit | Delete | |
5 |
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5+ |
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centre of face flake slab | Edit | Delete | |
6C |
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wall of to slab | Edit | Delete | |
5+ |
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right of flake | Edit | Delete | |
6A |
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sitstart arete left wall | Edit | Delete | |
7A |
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Morrell's Traverse | Traverse of the wall left on pockets and slopers finishing up Morrell's Wall. No large crack. | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
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arete overhanging side | Edit | Delete | |
4 |
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End Wall | crack | Edit | Delete |
2 |
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bulge | Edit | Delete | |
4 |
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crack slab to right | Edit | Delete | |
4 |
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crack side of to wall | Edit | Delete | |
6C+ |
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right arete | Edit | Delete | |
3 |
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side of wall | Edit | Delete | |
3 |
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centre of wall | Edit | Delete | |
2 |
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right arete of wall left side | Edit | Delete | |
7A |
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sitstart centre | Edit | Delete | |
7B |
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Fieldside Traverse | Traverse the face in the field from L-R. Bonus points for finding (and using) the hands free rest.. | Edit | Delete |
Unnamed Boulder 1 (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B |
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Arete with block | Pull and slap up the short overhanging arete. Everything apart from the floor allowed at this grade | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Below the decks | Ascend the overhanging arete from a sit start - without using the block | Edit | Delete |
7A (soft) |
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Arete and slab | From the sans block arete start rock over leftwards and onto the slab | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Grape Strain | traverse left to overhanging face | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Scoop | Climb up the shallow scoop. Fun, honest! | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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overhanging | Edit | Delete | |
6C+ |
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overhanging | Edit | Delete | |
5 |
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centre of overhanging face | Edit | Delete | |
West Cave - Left (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A (hard) |
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Barley Mow | highball crack with a good landing - but the hard part is awfully high up! | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Left rib | Ape up the superbly juggy arete. | Edit | Delete |
West Cave - Right (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5 |
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The Postman | Left hand side of the wall using the letterbox. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Hanging Rib | Up the vague arete rib using the high pocket and a crimp on the corner up high and right | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Right hand rib | To the left of pork chop slab, climb from the rib, good holds are on high.. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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right of wall sit start | Edit | Delete | |
5+ |
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Three Swings Traverse | Traverse right to left (easier) or left to right or both! Using the large holds on the corners of the break. Theres a clue in the name... | Edit | Delete |
6C (soft) |
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Three Swings Traverse Low | Traverse below three swings but nothing in the break is allowed. Anything too close to the ground for feet is frowned upon! | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Pork Chop Slab | Climb the pork chop shaped slab. Its a slice... style points removed for arete/edge usage... | Edit | Delete |
Flying Arete (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B |
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Flying Arete | Span up the left arete, rocking over the top either to the right or left. An Almscliff classic | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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side of slab | Edit | Delete | |
6A |
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Right Wing | Clamber up the RH arete, rocking over at the top. Not as good as the left arete - but still worth the mileage. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Stallones Stinking Banger | Direct finish over the slab, above flying arete, via a rockover | Edit | Delete |
The Virgin (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B+ |
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Stretch Armstrong | left side of roof - morpho as the name suggests! | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Sewer Rat Connection | right side of roof start | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Top Cat Traverse | traverse of roof right to left | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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The Real Boom Bap | A double-dyno from the block propping the Virgin up to the break left of Cherry Falls. A wild move. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Identity Crisis | Often mistakenly called the Gaskins Problem. Start off the wedged block and use terrible grips to reach the break. Starting low and eliminating the propping block will be very difficult indeed. | Edit | Delete |
8A+ |
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Cherry Falls | Levitate up the face via a small crimp and a slap for the break. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Crusis | Sitstart to gain the first break, then slap up to the slanting break and follow this to the top break. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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centre of face | Edit | Delete | |
8A |
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Canine | roof start flake right left arete | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Gypsy | The right arete, from the break. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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The Fox | Start up The Gypsy, then climb the face up and left. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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crack left | Edit | Delete | |
5+ |
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right side left arete of face | Edit | Delete | |
7B+ |
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start arete side of crack | Edit | Delete | |
7C+ |
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Dick Hymen | From the groove, head up and right, then leap for the Magnum Opus pocket. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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Virgin Traverse | Traverse overhanging face and around the corner from left to right. Soft in the grade ;) | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Hymen Traverse | Link the Virgin traverse in Dick Hymen. | Edit | Delete |
Underhand Roof (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
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Left Corner | Pull up the nice big holds on the left side of the roof. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Diminishing Returns | Start up the left side of the roof on good holds, then traverse out right on jugs, which diminish into slopers the further right you go. Finish at the apex of the roof, just left of the Underhand Extension finish. A good work-out! | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
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Pointy Block Pocket Rock | The crimp-rail to deep two-finger pocket just right of the centre of the roof. The finish to Underhand Extension. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Underhand | Takes the line up the RH side of the roof. Sitstart at the wobbly block and move up the RH edge of the roof using knack and tension. | Edit | Delete |
7C (soft) |
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Underhand Extension | Start up Underhand, then from the jug on the corner traverse left on crimps - then in the middle of the roof head upwards to good holds and glory. 7A from Standing (missing out the Underhand part) | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Underhand Super Extension | As per the extension, but just keep on going left - until you get to the left hand end of the roof and go up! | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Off Campus | Far right side of the roof on good breaks, can be campused or pull into the first break and high left heel. The finish of Underhand. | Edit | Delete |
The Keel (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B+ |
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Keel Crack | sit start roof crack | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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In Limbo | A bizarre start lying on the large block protruding left ot the keel. Using some sort of knee/bum/leg wedge sit up manouvere reach for the big holds around the lip and move upwards. | Edit | Delete |
7C (soft) |
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The Keel | Climb up from under the roof via the large keel shaped hold, getting around the lip and up to the pocket using either foot fadangery or brute force. Scurrolous rumours suggest it's easier for the tall... | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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The Real Keel | Same idea as the keel, but without the chipped hold on the lip. | Edit | Delete |
8A+ |
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Keelhaul | traverse of roof | Edit | Delete |
8B |
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Real Keelhaul | Edit | Delete | |
8B+ |
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Bulbhaul | Edit | Delete | |
7C+ |
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The Bulb | roof to right | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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arete left side of roof | Edit | Delete | |
7B+ |
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Natural Traverse | traverse | Edit | Delete |
6C+ (hard) |
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Sloper Patrol | Traverse up - or down the slopey edge around the right of the Keel boulder. Both ways finish rocking onto the slab/arete at the end. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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C and A Traverse | arete traverse right to crack | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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All Natural | traverse crack start | Edit | Delete |
Unnamed Boulder 2 (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5 |
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Arete Left | left side of arete - the side facing sloper patrol | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Arete right | Climb the right hand side of the arete rocking over onto the slab/scoop. Lovely. Add half a grade from a sit start. | Edit | Delete |
Ed's Dyno (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6C+ |
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Ed's Dyno | Dyno up from the two poorest slots in the break to the top. If it feels too easy, use worse slots! | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Teflon Traverse | Start from a sit at the right (downhill) end of the boulder. Slap up the polished corner then move along the rail leftwards. Cunning heels can help, as can a big span. As ground diminishes at the LH end head up and top out. | Edit | Delete |
The Matterhorn (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6A |
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Left wall | Ascend the left side of the side wall of the Matterhorn boulder. It feels like a total sandbag at 6A, until you manage it! | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Fractal | Crimp up crimpy nothingnesses to slap for the top | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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Matterhorn Arete | The obvious, appealing arete on its left-hand side. Slightly highball, but has large holds most of the way up. Despite this, the strain on the fingers is extremely severe, approaching the limit of strength. If it were two feet longer it may well be beyond the powers of any man. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Rasputin | Sit-start the green slab right of Matterhorn Arete. No holds in the groove allowed! | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Baby Jesus | Sit-start at the end of the thin crack and follow it rightwards on thin slots to the start of Matterhorn Arete. Finish up this. Easier for the smaller-fingered amongst us! | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Matterhorn Arete sit start | Start from sitting directly under the arete via an undercut and slopers on the arete. Clamp some polished slopers, then campus some small pockets to reach the start of Matterhorn Arete. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Chiasmata | Impressive sloper slapping and fridge hugging moves allow you to ascent the prow adjacent to the Matterhorn boulder. | Edit | Delete |
Wall Boulder (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6A+ |
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Blunt Arete | Slap or static up the bulging blunt arete by the drystone wall on small slopey holds. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Wall Boulder Wall | Start sitting off poor crimps and poor footholds to make a big move for big holes in the top of the boulder. | Edit | Delete |
Unnamed Boulder 3 (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5+ |
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centre of slab | Edit | Delete | |
The Egg (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B+ |
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Matt's Roof | left side of overhanging face low | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Matt Meets Buffy | start of roof | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Buffy Wants Daddy | right of roof arete | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Digital Death | start roof | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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mantle bulge of traverse | Edit | Delete | |
7A |
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left arete of side sitstart | Edit | Delete | |
8A |
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Play Dead | traverse roof | Edit | Delete |
6B |
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Cuticula | The centre of the wall right of the blunt arete form sitting. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Streakys Traverse | face of start roof right traverse left to arete | Edit | Delete |
8A+ |
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Zen | traverse roof | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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sit start traverse right | Edit | Delete | |
7A+ |
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Silver Trout without block | Climb from under the roof starting on the low handholds. Footblock not allowed at this grade | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Silver Trout | With the block, sit start at the pockets and slap up on poor slopers. Once you've sat down, and before you pull on, wonder what the name refers to. | Edit | Delete |
MK Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B |
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Pistol Whip | The technical, thin and high wall on small pockets and undercuts. The spicy landing in the gully can be protected with a few mats. Excellent technique and finger strength needed for this classic and beautiful sweep of gritstone. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ (hard) |
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Making Shapes | Delicate, fiercely thin and highly technical climbing up the wall right of Pistol Whip. Be gentle with this one as the holds are fragile. | Edit | Delete |
5 |
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MK One | The much simpler, shorter wall right of Making Shapes on pockets and ripples. | Edit | Delete |
Steve's Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ |
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Steve's Wall | Sit start on the left side of the face making large moves to a pocket to the right and the arete. A great problem, but harder for the shorter. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Steve's Left Arete | Start as for Steve's Wall but move up and left via the groove to gain the left arete and finish up this. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Kissing the Cambodian | A tight line straight up the groove without the left arete or pocket and sloper to the right. | Edit | Delete |
South Cave (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A (hard) |
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Patta's Arete | The leftwards rising arete. Start standing on the lower slab, then reach up to crimp, campus or heel hook your way up the sharp crimps. Traditionally started standing on the low ramp down to the right. Gurning and overbite optional. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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South Cave Bounce | A dyno straight up the wall left of the arete from polished hands in the break, up and back to the next break. Poor footholds! | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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South Cave Traverse | Start in the crack at the right of the cave (near the fence) and lank, lunge, smear and slap your way leftwards to finish up by the ramp around the corner before Patta's Arete. | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
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South Cave Arete | Climb the obvious arete. A really great problem at the grade. | Edit | Delete |
4 |
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South Cave Crack | The crack and arete just the other side of the fence to South Cave Arete. Pleasant. | Edit | Delete |
Teaspoon Cave (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
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Teaspoon Cave | roof left of crack | Edit | Delete |
6A+ (soft) |
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Teaspoon Variation | crack right side of roof | Edit | Delete |
Wall of Horrors (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6A |
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unnamed arete | On the wall to the left of Wall of Horrors, climb the right side of the left arete. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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unnamed arete eliminate | Stick to holds on the left side of the arete. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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unnamed dyno | The wall right of the arete, using two poor holds. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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The Horror | To the left of WoH, climb from jugs to a LH sidepull, then gain slopey holds past the bulge and make a big move for the WoH jug to finish. | Edit | Delete |
6C |
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?? | wall right of arete | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Wall of Horrors Traverse | Can be traversed either way, but traditionally starts from the right. After an odd drop down move ape out left to finish under Wall of Horrors | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Wall of Horrors | Ape up the start of the route Wall of Horrors. Jump off at the jug. | Edit | Delete |
Parsons Chimney (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B |
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The Dark Side of Chi | The tall arete above the block left of Parson's Chimney. Sensible padding makes this one amenable, but take care still. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Little Greeny | The very green wall right of Parson's Chimney up to the obvious break. Green indeed, but good fun moves. | Edit | Delete |
Jess's Roof (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7C |
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Jess's Roof | A great problem - in a superb location. Unfortunately sometimes used as a toilet by passing walkers/pot smokers/druids etc.. Take a large tarp to put in the puddle thats often in the base. That aside its a superb problem, move powerfully up the ever decreasing holds and finish around the lip in the big porthole. Gets steadily harder. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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roof start flake of side wall | Edit | Delete | |
Syrett's Roof (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A+ |
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Browns Roof | highball roof left | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Syrett's Roof | The line through the centre of the obvious roof. Start up the wall, then reach out via undercuts to good edges on the lip. Up again to further edges, foot on, and rock/udge to a good sloper which is frequently just out of reach. To add to that, you're a bit high by this point, but the landing's flat so keep udging! | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Si's Arete | Sit start the arete, slapping up for the top. A superb problem at the grade. Often stays dry - but favours cool conditions. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Bancroft's Roof | The large obvious roof to the right of Syretts. E2 before pads... | Edit | Delete |
South West Face (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
5 |
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left of wall sit start | Edit | Delete | |
6A |
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Jam Pot | roof of wall right crack | Edit | Delete |
Demon Wall Roof (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B+ |
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Stu's Roof Left-Hand | Starting on the back left-hand side of the roof, move out to the lip via pockets, then after gaining small crimps on the face, rock up the wall via various small edges to reach the top break. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Stu's Roof | The line of pockets through the roof left of the flake of Demon Wall Roof. Start at the back of the roof, come out on pockets and undercuts to sloping edges on the lip, then move up and left via the edges to go straight up to the top break. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Stu's Roof standing start | The final headwall of Stu's Roof, starting on crimps just above the lip. Finish at the break. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Bruno's Roof | Start up Stu's Roof but continue directly up Demon Wall Roof Left. Grade is a guess. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Demon Wall Roof Left-Hand | Start as for Demon Wall Roof, but instead of going for the break or ear, quest up and left on a multitude of intermediates of varying quality. Any holds in the break are out. Finish via the mono as for Demon Wall Roof. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Demon Wall Roof | One of Almscliff's classic problems. Take a line up the centre of the roof. From underneath gain edges on the lip - move up to larger crimps then with a toe or heel in the roof move up and right to the large break. Rock up and left to a mono and the higher break for the full tick. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Demon Wall Roof Original | Gain the face crimps as per Demon Wall, then miss out break. Go to ear gaston with RH. Finish as per DWR on the high break. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Demon Wall Roof Footless | Start on the flake in the middle of the roof, campus up the crimps and finish in the break. | Edit | Delete |
7B (soft) |
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Not Dog Fromage | Start at an undercut in the roof (next to the start of demon wall roof). Now do a massive span out right to gain the two holds past the lip (used for LH on Dolphin Belly Slap). Toe-hook with right foot and match. Jump for break and top out. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Hot Dog Fromage | From the slots close to the arete, in the back of the roof, get the sidepull and slap all the way out to the slopers on the lip, then a big slap to the break. For the 8A tick, no chip out left, nor anything on or around the arete to the right. Very hard. This is the proper, original Hot Dog Fromage, essentially being Dolphin Belly Slap without the arete. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Hot Dog Fromage cheating | As for Hot Dog Fromage, but a heel around the arete and the chip out left are allowed. From slots at the back of the roof, reach out left-handed to the sidepull crimp in the roof. Heel around the arete, then reach out to the slopers on the lip. A hard move to release the heel (using the chip for your left foot) allows you to match the lip and jump to the break as per Hot Dog/Not Dog. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Dolphin Belly Slap | Climb the right of arete of the roof, from a hunched sit at the back. Arete slapping and heel skill helps. (formerly 6C+ in old money) | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Dialectics | Start both hands on the arete of Dolphin Belly Slap and cross the roof lengthways to reach Stu's Roof, then finish up this. No back wall, no lip holds except to finish Stu's Roof. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Exorcist Super-long | Follow Exorcist all the way along the lip to reverse the start of Stu's Roof Left-Hand. Opens up the possibility of multiple laps of the Demon Wall Roof area... | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Exorcist | Start up Dolphin Belly Slap but on reaching the lip, traverse leftwards along lip and roof holds to reach the finish of Stu's Roof. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Exorcist (DWR Left Finish) | As for the Exorcist but finish up the crimps on Demon Wall Roof Left. | Edit | Delete |
7C (soft) |
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Exorcist Short | Start up Dolphin Belly Slap to reach the lip and traverse left as for Exorcist. On reaching the good crimp on Demon Wall Roof, bail up to the break to finish up the wall above as per DWR. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Demon Breaks | Start on the right of the buttress at the large polished break, then traverse left along the thin break to the crack left of Stu's Roof. Finish here or continue leftwards on easy but satisfying moves to the end of the buttress. | Edit | Delete |
The Crucifix (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7A |
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Crucifix Left Wall | Climb the blank-looking wall to the left of the crucifix from a sit start without using any of the breaks/cracks. | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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The Crucifix | The classic, blessed, cross shaped crack. Everything is in at this grade, except deals with the devil to reach the top. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Crucifix Crack | Climb the crack from a sit-start without using the big break or the horn jug on the arete to the right. | Edit | Delete |
6A+ |
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Crucifix Arete | Climb the arete. Anything goes... | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Crucifix Arete Break Eliminate | From low and left under the roof and up the arete without using the break for feet or hands. Eliminate but good. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Pebble Wall | Ascent the blank looking wall to the right of the arete. Pebbles can be useful, though jamming, foot and heel shennanigans in the break have all been used to help. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Pebble Skim aka The King Throw | A huge dyno from the slots at the start of Pebble Wall, all the way to the top of the block. Grade unknown, the grade given is a complete guess. | Edit | Delete |
7B |
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Pebble Wall Variation | An ungradable reach up the far right hand side of Pebble Wall, just left of the polished offwidth. The dictionary definition of a morpho problem. Using good holds and large polished footholds, either lank your way to the jugs at the top or contrive a difficult sequence on undercuts and high feet to pop to the top. Grade lies somewhere in the 6A-8A range. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Crucifix Traverse | Traverse left to right, below the break using the great two finger pocket on the lip. Continue on to finish up the right arete of the large polished offwidth. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Crucifix Warm-Up | From the back wall, traverse the big break all the way to the wall just before Dreamland. Pumpy and increasingly polished towards the end! | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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wall left of crack arete | Edit | Delete | |
7A+ |
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traverse right to left arete | Edit | Delete | |
7A+ (hard) |
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Reverse traverse and arete | An eliminate - but superb. Reverse the low traverse, then ascent the arete without using the break for hands or feet. Sounds easy right...? | Edit | Delete |
Dreamland wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
6B+ |
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Dream Crossing | Step off the wall to traverse the break rightwards to the crack, then continue along the wall to the arete. Polished. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Dreamland | Climb the black face to the right of the wall. Small holds lead to a large polished sloper. Hold and rock up to glory. Fabulous. French starts are not frowned upon... | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Jumping Bean | To the right of Dreamland run straight at the rock and ascend parkour stylee... | Edit | Delete |
5+ |
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Polished Pocket | The right arete of the wall using the pocket. | Edit | Delete |
6B+ |
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Polished Pocketless | The right arete, eliminating the good pocket. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Brincador | Sit-start the bulbous arete of the short wall perpendicular to Dreamland wall. Avoid the big hold around the right of the arete, as per the 6C+ stand-up version. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Classic Arete Eliminate | The right arete of the short protruding wall, climbed on its left without the big hold on the right side of the arete. | Edit | Delete |
6A |
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Classic Arete Non-Eliminate | The arete of the short protruding wall using everything. | Edit | Delete |
Black Wall (Delete all problems from this boulder to delete the boulder) | ||||||
7B |
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Blackhead | From large holds, make a few moves up into a large undercut, where the wall becomes blank. A move to an intermediate allows for a well-timed stand-up move to a poor hold just below the overlap. Continue to finish on jugs just above. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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'Arries 'ook Direct Start | Climb the groove using interesting techniques to reach out and right to the jug. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Black Wall Dyno | Even more direct than 'arries 'ook Direct Start. From undercuts, reach a horizontal pinch. Then, it's only a short pop to the jug. Except it's far harder than that... | Edit | Delete |
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info