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Problems:
7B+ |
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Stu's Roof Left-Hand | Starting on the back left-hand side of the roof, move out to the lip via pockets, then after gaining small crimps on the face, rock up the wall via various small edges to reach the top break. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Stu's Roof | The line of pockets through the roof left of the flake of Demon Wall Roof. Start at the back of the roof, come out on pockets and undercuts to sloping edges on the lip, then move up and left via the edges to go straight up to the top break. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Stu's Roof standing start | The final headwall of Stu's Roof, starting on crimps just above the lip. Finish at the break. | Edit | Delete |
7C+ |
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Bruno's Roof | Start up Stu's Roof but continue directly up Demon Wall Roof Left. Grade is a guess. | Edit | Delete |
7C |
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Demon Wall Roof Left-Hand | Start as for Demon Wall Roof, but instead of going for the break or ear, quest up and left on a multitude of intermediates of varying quality. Any holds in the break are out. Finish via the mono as for Demon Wall Roof. | Edit | Delete |
7A+ |
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Demon Wall Roof | One of Almscliff's classic problems. Take a line up the centre of the roof. From underneath gain edges on the lip - move up to larger crimps then with a toe or heel in the roof move up and right to the large break. Rock up and left to a mono and the higher break for the full tick. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Demon Wall Roof Original | Gain the face crimps as per Demon Wall, then miss out break. Go to ear gaston with RH. Finish as per DWR on the high break. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Demon Wall Roof Footless | Start on the flake in the middle of the roof, campus up the crimps and finish in the break. | Edit | Delete |
7B (soft) |
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Not Dog Fromage | Start at an undercut in the roof (next to the start of demon wall roof). Now do a massive span out right to gain the two holds past the lip (used for LH on Dolphin Belly Slap). Toe-hook with right foot and match. Jump for break and top out. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Hot Dog Fromage | From the slots close to the arete, in the back of the roof, get the sidepull and slap all the way out to the slopers on the lip, then a big slap to the break. For the 8A tick, no chip out left, nor anything on or around the arete to the right. Very hard. This is the proper, original Hot Dog Fromage, essentially being Dolphin Belly Slap without the arete. | Edit | Delete |
7B+ |
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Hot Dog Fromage cheating | As for Hot Dog Fromage, but a heel around the arete and the chip out left are allowed. From slots at the back of the roof, reach out left-handed to the sidepull crimp in the roof. Heel around the arete, then reach out to the slopers on the lip. A hard move to release the heel (using the chip for your left foot) allows you to match the lip and jump to the break as per Hot Dog/Not Dog. | Edit | Delete |
7A |
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Dolphin Belly Slap | Climb the right of arete of the roof, from a hunched sit at the back. Arete slapping and heel skill helps. (formerly 6C+ in old money) | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Dialectics | Start both hands on the arete of Dolphin Belly Slap and cross the roof lengthways to reach Stu's Roof, then finish up this. No back wall, no lip holds except to finish Stu's Roof. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Exorcist Super-long | Follow Exorcist all the way along the lip to reverse the start of Stu's Roof Left-Hand. Opens up the possibility of multiple laps of the Demon Wall Roof area... | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Exorcist | Start up Dolphin Belly Slap but on reaching the lip, traverse leftwards along lip and roof holds to reach the finish of Stu's Roof. | Edit | Delete |
8A |
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Exorcist (DWR Left Finish) | As for the Exorcist but finish up the crimps on Demon Wall Roof Left. | Edit | Delete |
7C (soft) |
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Exorcist Short | Start up Dolphin Belly Slap to reach the lip and traverse left as for Exorcist. On reaching the good crimp on Demon Wall Roof, bail up to the break to finish up the wall above as per DWR. | Edit | Delete |
6C+ |
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Demon Breaks | Start on the right of the buttress at the large polished break, then traverse left along the thin break to the crack left of Stu's Roof. Finish here or continue leftwards on easy but satisfying moves to the end of the buttress. | Edit | Delete |
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