Peak District Bouldering - Stanage Plantation

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Stanage Plantation - Gritstone

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Top 20 problems: (view all problems)

Deliverance direct start (7B+)
- Current rating: 5.0/5
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Careless Torque (8A)
- Current rating: 5.0/5
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Brad Pit (7C+ (soft))
- Current rating: 5.0/5
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Force Tart (7A+)
- Current rating: 5.0/5
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Beneath The Breadline (7B)
- Current rating: 5.0/5
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Big Air (6C+)
- Current rating: 5.0/5
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Crescent Arete (5+)
- Current rating: 4.9/5
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Deliverance (7B+)
- Current rating: 4.8/5
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Help The Young (7A+ (hard))
- Current rating: 4.5/5
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Four Star Start (6C)
- Current rating: 4.3/5
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The Storm (7B+)
- Current rating: 4.3/5
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Pebble Arete (5+)
- Current rating: 4.0/5
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* * H-Top (7B)
- Current rating: 4.0/5
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Jerry's Traverse (7C (hard))
- Current rating: 4.0/5
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Dopey Mantel (6C)
- Current rating: 4.0/5
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The Pendulum (7A)
- Current rating: 4.0/5
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Glass Hour Left Hand (7A+)
- Current rating: 4.0/5
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Brass Monkeys (7C (hard))
- Current rating: 4.0/5
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Ten Shadows to Midnight (7B)
- Current rating: 4.0/5
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Crescent Arete Righthand (6B+)
- Current rating: 4.0/5
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All problems: (view only the best problems)

The Pebble
3	Pebble Face	On the clean downhill face, follow the rising rampline from left, to a finish in the centre.
6A+	A Slab Upon a Pebble	Just right of the good flakes, climb straight up.
7A+	Pocket and Pebble	An eliminate traverse of the South face, staying below the ramp.
7B	The Pebble Girdle	Circumnavigate the Pebble.
7B (soft)	Ron's Slab	Follow a tight line straight up just left of pebble arete
5+	Pebble Arete	Classic arete, start on the right and finish on the left.
6A	Pebble Arete (right)	Climb the arete on its right.
7A	Pebble Arete Sitstart	Sitstart.
7C+	Andy Brown's Wall	Climb the wall right of the arete.
7B+	Deliverance	Climb the centre of the wall, via the single hold. Graded for the static method.
7B+	Deliverance direct start	Step straight up onto the slab below the deliverance flake.
7A+	Deliverance Traverse	Traverse from Pebble Arete to Deliverate.
7A (hard)	Deliverance Traverse R-L	From Delivarete to Pebble Arete.
6A+	Delivarete	Technical sitstart on the arete right of Deliverance.
6C	Boston Mess Standing	A standing start to Boston Mess.
7C+	Boston Mess Original	Rules: Start from a low undercut (not quite a sitstart), pull on, go left to furthest left undercut, righ hand to middle undercut (crux), then use other holds to gain the ledge above.
7B	Boston Mess Jump	Pull on to the low undercuts and jump to the ledge.
7A+	Boston Mess Left Hand	Pull on to the left-hand undercuts and climb to the ledge.
7B	Twister (to Apex)	Sitstart from undercuts and finish with a slap for the highest point of the ledge.
6B+	Original Sloper Traverse	Traverse the big sloping ledge on the North face from right to left.
6A	Pebble West Face	Climb the West Face.
The Business Boulder
4+	Black Arete	Climb the left arete of the uphill face.
4	Black Wall	Climb the middle of the uphill face.
4+	Black Bulge	Climb the bulge on the right of the uphill face.
5 (soft)	Nobody's Business	Climb the groove on the slabby side of the boulder.
6B	Slot Sitdown	From sitting at the slot in the slabby side of the boulder, climb into the groove above.
7B (hard)	Zippy's Traverse	From the horizontal slot, traverse rightwards round the blunt arete, to finish up the juggy flake.
5	Big Business	Monkey up the big flakes on the left side of the downhill face, from standing.
6C	Jerry's Finish	Just right of the jugs, use the two slopers to lock for a fingery edge, then the top.
6C	Jerry's Finish	The final moves of Jerry's Traverse, from the finishing slopers up to the good edge, then over the top.
8A	Jasons Traverse	Climb Zippy's Traverse staying beneath the jugs at the end, then reverse jerry's traverse to finish up A-Top
8B	Close of Business	Link Jason's Traverse into Ben's Reverse
7B	* * H-Top	Use small edges to climb the centre of the wall.
7C+	Danny's Problem	Sitter to ** H-Top.
6B	A B Top	From the left side of the shelf, climb upwards via slappy moves.
6B	Business Launch	From crimps in the middle of the shelf, power upwards.
6B	Business Lunch	From crimps in the middle of the shelf, power upwards.
7B (soft)	Rose and the Self-employed Business Man	From the centre of the shelf, traverse left below the top. Finishing with a cross-under from the good crimp to the jug has become the obligatory finishing method.
6C	A - Top	Sitstart. From the centre of the shelf, slap upwards and mantel to victory.
7C (hard)	Jerry's Traverse	From the centre of the shelf, traverse leftwards at a low level. Finish via Jerry's Finish.
7B	Ben's Reverse	From the centre of the shelf, traverse right to finish up the arete.
7A+	Ben's Reverse Arete	Start Ben's Reverse from sitting at the arete, instead of on the shelf. Slightly easier than Ben's Reverse.
8A+	Ben's Extension into Danny's Problem	Does what it says on the tin.
8A	Ben's Extension	Start on the lip right of the arete? Traverse left to make the essential dropdown match. Continue along Jerry's Traverse.
The Green Traverse
7A	Neil's Problem	Immediately left of the Green Traverse boulder is a small piece of rock. From sitting, slap the top.
7A	The Green Traverse	The classic traverse, from good holds on the right to a rockover finish on the left.
7A	The Green Slap	From the central finger rail, with feet on smears, slap [or lock] to the top of the boulder and mantle it out.
7A (soft)	The Green Wing	From the large diagonal hold, slap up and left to the top, then mantel it out.
7B	The Green Crossthrough	Another old eliminate on the Green Traverse. Right hand only on the central finger rail, foot on the smear and left hand up to the good hold. Continue as normal.
7A (hard)	Ron's Reach	Miss out the central finger rail, and the little ear above the guppy.
7A+ (soft)	Dope on a Slope	Aka The Full Green Traverse. From sitting on slopes, traverse the lip leftwards into the original problem.
7B+ (soft)	The Full Works	Reverse the mantle through the start of the Full Green Traverse then finish along this.
6C	Dopey Mantel	From a sitstart on the slopes, mantel straight up.
Hourglass
7A (hard)	Born Slappy	Hang the slopey lip on the far left and work up to the top.
7A	The Pendulum	The wall just left of the left hand arete.
7A+	Glass Hour Left Hand	The left hand arete on its left side, direct.
7A	Glass Hour	The left hand arete on its right side.
7B+	Born Snappy	Climb the wall between the aretes from a high start.
6B	Hourglass Left Hand	The right hand arete on its left side throughout.
5+	Hourglass Right Hand	The right arete, starting on its right side then swinging round to the left.
Captain Hook
7B+	Bentley's Gonna Sort You Out	Start low (on big hold) and rock up and left using a pebble scar on the left and a dish on the right.
7B	Captain Hook	Start on the low edges (at the start of "Bentley's Gonna Sort You Out"), and slap along the lip using an undercut under the roof. Top out at the nose.
Brass Monkeys
7A	Dirty Monkey	Climbs the arete left of Brass Monkeys on its left hand side, take a brush as it probably hasn't been climbed for years.
7C (hard)	Brass Monkeys	The powerful roof starting from the block at the back.Originally finished up the arete on the right hand side. Most rock back left onto the slab.
6B (soft)	Fear and Loathing	Up the slab right of Brass Monkeys, on snappy flakes. More like a route really.
Bullworker
6B (hard)	Bullside	The small left wall, from sitting.
6B	Bullworker	Climb the overhanging bulge.
6C	No Bull	Bullworker Slab without using hands (or elbows). Daft eliminate and not really deserving of a grade, but good fun when you have run out of skin
3	Bullworker Slab	start at the lowest part of the slab immediately to the right of Bullworker and climb to the highest part
4	Bullworker Slab Traverse	Traverse the slab either way without using the top
Unfamiliar Area
7B	Ten Shadows to Midnight	In the cave above the Unfamiliar block, sitstart the left arete and make a hard move to the lip out right. Swing along this and rock onto the green slab.
7A+ (hard)	Unfamiliar Sit start	Presumably finish at the first break? Has anyone done this?
7A+ (hard)	Badger LH	As for Badger, but once at the jug, make a move left to the large backhand pocket and finish upwards.
6C+ (hard)	Badger	Three boulders to the right [looking uphill] of Unfamiliar is a steep left leaning arete, which is climbed from sitting, starting at low pockets. The standard version rocks right from the jug to finish (slightly easier).
6C+	The Deep End	Beneath Badger is a short slopey lip traverse and awkward arete, climbed from right to left.
One Inch More
7A+ (hard)	One Inch More	Crawl into the [very] small cave then climb back out again, with a tricky rockver to finish. Make sure the dab police aren't watching.
The Grand Hotel
7C+	Careless Youth	The highball wall left of Careless Torque, above a bad landing.
8A	Careless Torque	The high, undercut, left arete.
6C	Not to be Taken Away	Classic! Start (without stacking your pads - harder for the short) and waltz up the rampline with just little enough footwork to be properly pumped for the rather high last moves.
7A+	To Be or Not To Be	Start up Not To Be Taken Away then move right and dyno or span to the top.
The Ace Boulder
7A	Honourary Caley	The slab to the right of the wide crack on the upper end of the boulder. The good sidepull near the arete is not allowed.
7C	The Joker	Reach the two crimps from the boulder in front of them. Pull on and launch to the top.
8B	The Ace	From a jug at the lip of the cave in the main face of the boulder use poor crimps to hit the top.
6B+	Spades (standing start)	From standing, somehow climb the downhill arete of the Ace boulder.
7A (hard)	Spades	The lowest arete of the boulder from a sitting start.
The Pit Boulder
6C+	Photograph Arete	Short steep little arete to the left of Brad pit [when facing the problem].
6C	The Photograph Dyno	Hang the slopey shelf some way left of Brad Pit, then launch for the top.
7C+ (soft)	Brad Pit	The slopey groove in the hole behind the boulder.
8B (soft)	Brad Pit Sit Start	Sit start Brad Pit
7C+	Fight Club	A daft eliminate. Climb Brad Pit without the jug.
6C	Adults only	The left side of the Spooky downhill arete of the boulder, starting off the sloping rock.
7C (soft)	Delusions of Grandeur	A low standing start to the arete. Starting on it's right side, then swinging round to finish up Adults only.
7B+ (soft)	The Hit Man	Start up Adults only but swing round the arete to hand traverse the thin break rightwards all the way to an easy finishing groove.
6A	Video Nasty	The hanging slab, starting towards the right end of the half way ledge. only bouldering if you don't bounce.
8A	Snatch	one move, pulling on two poor crimps and slapping the halfway ledge of the boulder's front face, towards its right end.
The Spurs
7B (soft)	Left Spur	From a low sit start on jugs at the end of the long low break, pull up and left using a small vertical flake.
6C+ (soft)	Right Spur	From the same start as Left Spur traverse right then climb the central square cut groove.
7A (soft)	Spur Traverse	From the same start as Left Spur, traverse the break rightwards until it runs out, then trickily pull up to finish.
Satin Buttress
7A+ (soft)	Pressure Drop	Climb the left side of the slab to the second break.
7A	Satin start	Climb the right side of the slab to the second break.
5+	Pullover	Start from a flake under the overhang and pullup leftwards using a layaway. Easy ground remains
7A+	Force Tart	The superbly blank slab to the left of Four Star, climbed halfway between the pocket and the arete.
6C	Four Star Start	The technical arete is safe enough if well padded and spotted. Traverse off at the break or solo the rest of the route at HVS.
Crescent Arete
7B+	Ron's Slab	Work up the slab just left of Crescent Arete on pebbles.
5+	Crescent Arete	Beautiful highball ridge.
6B+	Crescent Arete Righthand	As good as the original.
7A	Crescent Arete Righthand Sitstart	From a sitstart at the bottom of the slope, make a few tricky moves to gain the upper arete.
7A	Crescent Slab	The slab just right of Crescent Arete, aiming for the short break.
7A (hard)	Mono Slab	Direct up the centre of the slab, with a tricky move from pebbles to a deep right hand mono.
6A	Crescent Mantel	Mantel the curving groove line at the right side of the slab.
Breadline
7B+	The Storm	Press out from the slopey rampline at the left side of the boulder to the top.
7B+ (hard)	Deadline	From The Storm work up rightwards to the high right arete.
6C	Breadline	Climb the arete by starting off the adjacent boulder.
7B	Beneath The Breadline	Breadline starting off the smaller boulder in the crevasse.
7C	Baseline	Beneath the Breadline into The Storm.
7C+	Highline	Start as for Breadline, but traverse the lip rightwards to the pocket of Big Air, and finish up this.
8A	Bloodline	Beneath the Breadline into Highline.
6C+	Big Air	Not a boulder problem... ...unless you pile 4 foot of snow over the jagged landing, and then add a bunch of mats on top!
4 (soft)	Scooped Slab	Up from a low pocket on ledges
5	Arete	On end the block from which you leap for big air is a slab. The left hand arete on its left hand side is harder for the short
Fern Buttress
7B+	Silk	Mount the bulge left of the crack, then make hard moves up and left to reach better holds. Many pads recommended.
7A+	Silk Start	Mantel on to the bulge left of the wide crack (Fern Crack).
7C	Silk Sit Start	Sit Start into the mantel.
7A+ (hard)	Polished Bump	Campus then mantel the bulge just right of the wide crack (Fern Crack)
7A (hard)	Help The Aged	Campus to the big flattie from the shoddy sloper then mantel this to the ledge.
7B	Help Right Hand	Campus to the same flattie from slopers further right, and finish as for Help The Aged.
7A (hard)	The Prince	Further right, past Wall End Slab is a wall with a nice groove at its right end. Climb the wall at centre left from a juggy break, to pebbles and smaller breaks.
6A+	Bunny Boiler	Climb the nice groove right of the Prince.
Help The Young
7B+	Back In The YMCA	Left of Help The Young is a big slightly overhanging wall. Climb the centre of this from undercuts, using poor pockets to reach the high break.
7B	Winner Stays On	It's the arete right of 'back in the YMCA'. Start on Good RH hold to the right of the arete. Bounce LH up to the sidepull into the middle of the wall. Wrap R heel around the arete and make sketchy and reachy moves up to the good hold at the top of the arete (it helps to have a long reach otherwise it's a jump, albeit a very cool jump).
7A+ (hard)	Help The Young	Climb the big, uphill facing arete, with a jump start,reaching left to the ledge at the top.
7B+ (soft)	Help the Young (standing start)	Climb the arete from standing (no jumpstart).
7C+	Help The Young Sit Start	Sit start the arete, using the footledge at the base.
8A	Help The Young Sit Start [strict]	Sit start the arete without the footledge at the base.
7C	Hippocampus	Just beneath Help The young is a boulder with diagonal breaks on its downhill side and a steep arete on its left side. This climbs the left side of the face from a sitting start, the arete is in but the holds tend to keep you on the front face.Dynamic.
6B+	All fourteen 8000 metre peaks	Just beneath Help The young is a boulder with diagonal breaks on its downhill side. Climb this from standing.
7A+	Nightsalt	Way over to the right, along the edge. Above and right of Brass Monkeys, is another uphill-facing arete in a gully.
Victorian overmantle
7C+ (hard)	Victorian overmantle	Mantel the low hanging lip.
Steep Boulder
6C (soft)	Steep Traverse	Start on the shelf and follow the rising break rightwards to finish pulling round the arete.
7A (soft)	Airlie's Extension	Wierdly start on the detached block in front of the Steep Boulder, then drop down on to the shelf and follow it round into The Steep Traverse.
6B+	Popp's Pop	Pull straight through the middle of the Steep Traverse.
Of Old Buttress
4	Older Still	Use the short crack just right of the arete.
5	Of Old	Climb the undercut section of wall on its left.
6C	Mounting Frustration	The centre of the wall is frustrating. The trick is mounting it.
5+	Pretty Pretty	Climb the right side of the wall, just left of the hollybush.
B.A.W.'s Crawl Buttress
7C (hard)	The Golden Path	This climbs the right arete of the roof to the high break.
7A+	Thumbing Your Father	The left side of the wall right of Golden Path.
Verandah Buttress
6B+	The Bi-Curious Cormorant	Sitstart the small roof on the left end of the buttress.
6A+	Mary Whitehouse	Start below the groove on the right side of the buttress, climb up till it becomes possible to attack the small end of the roof. Head rightwards to holds on the arete.
7A+	Verandah Buttress Direct	From the wobbly flake, work right across the large roof, using a small crimp. Highball.
Lone Boulder
3	Lone Arete Left	The arete on the vertical left hand side.
4	Lone Arete	The arete on the slabby right hand side.
4+	Lone Slab	Climb the slab just right of (and without using) the arete.
4	Lone Scoop	Climb the vague scoop on the right side of the slab. No arete.
4+	Lone Ledge	On the overhanging side, use the ledge to gain the top.
6A	Lone Groove	Climb the groove in the arete.
5	Lone Bulge	Mantel the bulge.
4	Shady Side	Climb the shady side.
The Twins
3	Crozzlarete	The arete just right of the groove.
6A+	Crozzly Wall	On the lower boulder, climb the crozzly wall just right of the groove.
6A	Jump Arete	Jump for the sloper on the arete, and push onwards.
5+	Crozzly Arete	Climb the balancy left arete of the crozzly slab.
5	Crozzly Slab	Climb the centre of the crozzly slab.
6A	Crozzly Slab Sitstart	Sitstart the slab.
3	Flakey Arete	Just right of Crozzly Slab, follow the large flakey jugs up the arete
6B	Flakey Arete Sitstart	From sitting, work into the standup.
6B	Thuggy Traverse	Facing uphill is a low lip. Traverse from left to a mantel finish on the right.
Hathersage Trip
7B+	Courtesy of Jonboy	The high hanging arete left of the central offwidth (no holds on other side of crack). Don't bounce! FA Ryan Pasquill 09
7B	National Breakdown	The slabby right most wall. Highball.
Steep Boulder
7A	Roy's Problem	Start from standing, with LH high arete and RH poor undercut, then pop to the lip & mantle. Quite good but scrittly.
Sky Bouldering
7A	Sky Bouldering	Climb the slabby wall. Don't bounce off the terrace.

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gritlad sent Deliverance direct start, The Pebble, Stanage Plantation, date: Saturday 28 Apr 2012, details
- Current rating: 5.0/5
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Drew Withey sent Glass Hour, Hourglass, Stanage Plantation, date: Tuesday 13 Mar 2012, details
- Current rating: 3.5/5
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Gareth sent Rose and the Self-employed Business Man, The Business Boulder, Stanage Plantation, date: Sunday 04 Mar 2012, details
- Current rating: 3.0/5
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Gareth sent Ben's Reverse, The Business Boulder, Stanage Plantation, date: Sunday 04 Mar 2012, details
- Current rating: 2.0/5
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garethmb sent Lone Scoop, Lone Boulder, Stanage Plantation, date: Thursday 01 Mar 2012, details
- Current rating: 2.5/5
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garethmb sent Crescent Mantel, Crescent Arete, Stanage Plantation, date: Wednesday 29 Feb 2012, details
- Current rating: 2.3/5
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garethmb sent Scooped Slab, Breadline, Stanage Plantation, date: Wednesday 29 Feb 2012, details
- Current rating: 1.5/5
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garethmb sent Arete, Breadline, Stanage Plantation, date: Wednesday 29 Feb 2012, details
- Current rating: 2.0/5
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garethmb sent Lone Ledge, Lone Boulder, Stanage Plantation, date: Wednesday 29 Feb 2012, details
- Current rating: 1.0/5
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garethmb sent Lone Slab, Lone Boulder, Stanage Plantation, date: Wednesday 29 Feb 2012, details
- Current rating: 3.5/5
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garethmb sent Lone Arete, Lone Boulder, Stanage Plantation, date: Wednesday 29 Feb 2012, details
- Current rating: 3.0/5
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plattsy sent Hourglass Right Hand, Hourglass, Stanage Plantation, date: Saturday 25 Feb 2012, details
- Current rating: 2.0/5
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NTL sent Brad Pit, The Pit Boulder, Stanage Plantation, date: Tuesday 21 Feb 2012, details
- Current rating: 5.0/5
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offshoreandy sent Captain Hook, Captain Hook, Stanage Plantation, date: Feb 2012, details
- Current rating: 3.8/5
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highrepute sent Glass Hour, Hourglass, Stanage Plantation, date: Thursday 02 Feb 2012, details
- Current rating: 3.5/5
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highrepute sent Brad Pit, The Pit Boulder, Stanage Plantation, date: Thursday 02 Feb 2012, details
- Current rating: 5.0/5
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offshoreandy sent Zippy's Traverse, The Business Boulder, Stanage Plantation, date: Jan 2012, details
- Current rating: 3.8/5
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slack---line sent Crescent Mantel, Crescent Arete, Stanage Plantation, date: Sunday 15 Jan 2012, details
- Current rating: 2.3/5
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gritlad sent Help The Young, Help The Young, Stanage Plantation, date: Thursday 22 Dec 2011, details
- Current rating: 4.7/5
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nai sent Glass Hour, Hourglass, Stanage Plantation, date: Saturday 29 Oct 2011, details
- Current rating: 3.5/5
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Latest Problem Updates:

Crescent Arete, Crescent Arete, Stanage Plantation updated on 22/10/2011 at 08:31PM
Help The Young, Help The Young, Stanage Plantation updated on 20/10/2011 at 09:57AM
The Pebble Girdle, The Pebble, Stanage Plantation updated on 29/08/2011 at 05:19PM
Brad Pit, The Pit Boulder, Stanage Plantation updated on 24/06/2011 at 08:55PM
Bullworker, Bullworker, Stanage Plantation updated on 22/05/2011 at 08:53PM
Steep Traverse, Steep Boulder, Stanage Plantation updated on 22/05/2011 at 08:34PM
Thuggy Traverse, The Twins, Stanage Plantation updated on 13/05/2011 at 06:27AM
Flakey Arete, The Twins, Stanage Plantation updated on 13/05/2011 at 06:24AM
Crozzly Slab, The Twins, Stanage Plantation updated on 13/05/2011 at 06:21AM
Crozzly Arete, The Twins, Stanage Plantation updated on 13/05/2011 at 06:20AM
Ron's Reach, The Green Traverse, Stanage Plantation updated on 12/05/2011 at 06:05AM
Original Sloper Traverse, The Pebble, Stanage Plantation updated on 06/05/2011 at 05:09AM
Bullside, Bullworker, Stanage Plantation updated on 06/05/2011 at 04:48AM
Bullworker Slab Traverse, Bullworker, Stanage Plantation updated on 06/05/2011 at 04:48AM
Bullworker Slab, Bullworker, Stanage Plantation updated on 06/05/2011 at 04:48AM
No Bull, Bullworker, Stanage Plantation updated on 06/05/2011 at 04:41AM
The Green Traverse, The Green Traverse, Stanage Plantation updated on 04/05/2011 at 03:06PM
Airlie's Extension, Steep Boulder, Stanage Plantation updated on 02/05/2011 at 08:36PM
Deliverance Traverse R-L, The Pebble, Stanage Plantation updated on 30/04/2011 at 12:40PM
Deliverance Traverse, The Pebble, Stanage Plantation updated on 27/04/2011 at 07:26AM