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Gentleman's Rock Area - Sandstone
Description: BMC topo here: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/guidebooks/sample_chapters/staffs%20grit%20green%20boulders%20webguide.pdf
Access: None.
Ascents: Show recent ascents.
Updates: Show latest updates.
Top 20 problems: (view all problems)
-
High Speed Imp Act (7A (soft)) -
The Nose Lower Start (6C (hard)) -
The Nose (6C (soft)) -
The Awakening (7B) -
Hey Diddle Diddle (Moon Jumper Start) (6B+) -
Lean, Green, Bean Machine (6B+ (hard)) -
Jill the Traverse (6B+ (hard)) -
Martin's Mono Problem (7A+ (soft)) -
Humpty Dumpty (7A+ (soft))
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Low Traverse (6B+ (hard))
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Low Traverse Reverse- Lockit To The Pocket (6C+ (hard))
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Square Pusher (6B+) -
The Revival (7A+)
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Superstring (6B) -
Lockit to the Pockit (6B)
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Moon Jumper (6B+)
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Gentleman John (6B (hard))
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Electrofly (7A (soft)) -
Flowtation (6B+ (hard)) -
The Chained Block Traverse (6B+ (hard))
All problems: (view only the best problems)
| Gentleman's Rock | |||||
| 6B+ (hard) |
|
Jill the Traverse | Traverse at a low level from the big lefthand shelf (where Moon Jumper starts) to the Gentleman John crack. | ||
| 7A+ |
|
The Mega Traverse | Do Jill the Traverse then carry on rightwards to finish up the Nose (which is apparantly more strenuous). | ||
| 7A+ (soft) |
|
The Mega Traverse (low finish) | Do Jill the Traverse then reverse Low Traverse into Lockit to the Pocket | ||
| 6B+ |
|
Hey Diddle Diddle (Moon Jumper Start) | From a sit start on jugs at the left hand end of the traverse move up the vague arete to a sloper and pocket to gain jugs above. | ||
| 6B+ |
|
Moon Jumper | From jugs on the ledge, work up the vague arete, via a lofty pocket.Gain the slopey ledge up and right via the sandy flake thing under roof. | ||
| 7C |
|
Lunar Direct | Right of Moon Jumper, gain It two small pockets before setting up for and slapping a slopey sidepull hold on a mini arete. Then up to the break and finish as for Moon Jumper on the high slopey break thing up and left. | ||
| 6C |
|
The Mono Problem (Electrofly Start) | A big rech from the traverse line to a mono in the middle of the wall, followed by a lock or pop to jugs. Now extended to give Electrofly. | ||
| 7A (soft) |
|
Electrofly | From the line of the traverse, stretch to the two-finger pocket in the green, then lock off to jugs. From here, bounce leftwards and rockover to the good holds above. | ||
| 7A+ (soft) |
|
Martin's Mono Problem | Just right of Electrofly, undercut to a mono, then go for the pocket. | ||
| 7B |
|
Fifty Pence Problem | Start left of the altar. A fifty pence lookalike leads the way to a decent pocket up and left. | ||
| 7A+ (soft) |
|
Humpty Dumpty | Climb the pebbled groove. | ||
| 6B (hard) |
|
Gentleman John | Climb the overhanging fingeer crack to good jugs. | ||
| 6C+ (hard) |
|
Low Traverse Reverse- Lockit To The Pocket | Reverse Low Traverse from the Gentleman John crack before reaching the low shelf and then gaining the large letterbox on the far right | ||
| 7A |
|
Low Traverse Reverse- The Nose | Reverse Low Traverse from the Gentleman John crack and finish up The Nose | ||
| 7B+ |
|
Crash Test | Start as for High Speed Imp Act to the big pocket but then cross over with the right to a good mono. (Instead of jumping up and right to another good pockect as for HSIA) From here a still lock using a pebble as an intermediate will land you a a good deep pocket just below good finishing holds. Very basic. | ||
| 7A (soft) |
|
High Speed Imp Act | Start on low holds and blast up the overhanging wall into large pockets. Finish high on good holds. | ||
| 6C |
|
Cloverfield | From standing, climb from the slot to the ledge and up. | ||
| 7B+ |
|
Pegasus | From the starting holds of the nose problem, dyno to the ledge. (ie without the use of the two biggies out right as per Nose Prob.) | ||
| 6C (soft) |
|
The Nose | From low, follow positive edges and slots through the steep wall. | ||
| 6C (hard) |
|
The Nose Lower Start | Climb into The Nose from the shelf low on the right. | ||
| 6B+ (hard) |
|
Low Traverse | Start as per Nose low Start, Traverse line of crimps left to gain jugs on start of Gentleman John | ||
| 7A (hard) |
|
Low Traverse- Jill the Traverse | Do Low Traverse then reverse Jill the Traverse to the far left shelf | ||
| 6B |
|
Lockit to the Pockit | From the ledge down and right of The Nose, lock to the large pocket up and right. Finish here. | ||
| 7B |
|
Johnny Nyeff Nyeff | Start in the slot as for Limp Lizard. Cross to slopey crimp on the lip and continue up and left via small crimps and big sloper to the finishing jugs of The Nose. | ||
| 7B+ |
|
Slow Worm | Link Lockit from the Pockit into Limp Lizard. | ||
| 7B |
|
Limp Lizard | From the big pocket, tackle the reachy bulge. | ||
| 7A |
|
Mindbenderjelly | From right, traverse the break right of the nose problem. | ||
| Spooky Land | |||||
| 6B+ |
|
Spooky Wall | From the break on the front wall, aim for the next break. | ||
| 6A+ |
|
Spooky Arete | From sitting at the triangular hold, head left and up the arete. | ||
| 6B+ (hard) |
|
Flowtation | From sitting at the triangular hold, head right and up. | ||
| Square Pusher | |||||
| 6B+ |
|
Square Pusher | The centre of the wall, from standing. Dynamic moves using small holds. | ||
| 6B |
|
Skint | The right side of the wall, from sitting. Flakes and a jug lead to the top. | ||
| The Chained Block | |||||
| 6B+ (hard) |
|
The Chained Block Traverse | Start left of the crack and swing along the break. Gain the Superstring pocket amd top out to the right. | ||
| 6B |
|
Superstring | Sitstart the arete, then head left and up, to finish matched on a sloper. | ||
| 7A+ |
|
The Revival | Sitstart the arete, then head for the crimps up and right. From here, work up and left to a pocket and the top. | ||
| 7B |
|
The Awakening | Start as for The Revival, but head to the edge right of the arete. A tricky top out awaits. | ||
| 6B+ (hard) |
|
Lean, Green, Bean Machine | The wall to the right of the arete, from a sit start,dyno to the slopers and the mantle out rightwards. | ||
- Rich sent High Speed Imp Act, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Saturday 18 Jun 2011, details
- chris_r sent Moon Jumper, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Tuesday 12 Apr 2011, details
- chris_r sent Lean, Green, Bean Machine, The Chained Block, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Tuesday 12 Apr 2011, details
- paddyisidle sent The Nose Lower Start, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Thursday 17 Mar 2011, details
- paddyisidle sent The Nose, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Thursday 17 Mar 2011, details
- paddyisidle sent Low Traverse Reverse- Lockit To The Pocket, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Thursday 06 Jan 2011, details
- offshoreandy sent Hey Diddle Diddle (Moon Jumper Start), Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Dec 2010, details
- paddyisidle sent Jill the Traverse, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Monday 23 Aug 2010, details
- paddyisidle sent Lockit to the Pockit, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Monday 23 Aug 2010, details
- paddyisidle sent Moon Jumper, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Sunday 16 May 2010, details
- paddyisidle sent Low Traverse, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Monday 03 May 2010, details
- paddyisidle sent Hey Diddle Diddle (Moon Jumper Start), Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Apr 2010, details
- measles sent Electrofly, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Saturday 23 Jan 2010, details
- measles sent Martin's Mono Problem, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Saturday 23 Jan 2010, details
- measles sent Humpty Dumpty, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Wednesday 20 Jan 2010, details
- Stuart Brooks sent Moon Jumper, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Wednesday 07 Oct 2009, details
- Stuart Brooks sent Lockit to the Pockit, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Monday 03 Aug 2009, details
- Stuart Brooks sent Skint, Square Pusher, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Monday 11 May 2009, details
- Stuart Brooks sent Square Pusher, Square Pusher, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: Monday 11 May 2009, details
- measles sent The Awakening, The Chained Block, Gentleman's Rock Area, date: 2008, details
Latest Problem Updates:
- Low Traverse Reverse- Lockit To The Pocket, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 24/06/2011 at 09:00PM
- High Speed Imp Act, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 24/06/2011 at 08:51PM
- Slow Worm, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 03/05/2011 at 07:58AM
- The Nose Lower Start, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 03/05/2011 at 07:58AM
- Johnny Nyeff Nyeff, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 03/05/2011 at 07:58AM
- Lean, Green, Bean Machine, The Chained Block, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 13/04/2011 at 07:51AM
- Moon Jumper, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 13/04/2011 at 07:46AM
- Lockit to the Pockit, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 20/03/2011 at 01:30AM
- Low Traverse- Jill the Traverse, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 20/03/2011 at 01:30AM
- Hey Diddle Diddle (Moon Jumper Start), Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 20/03/2011 at 01:28AM
- The Mega Traverse (low finish), Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 20/03/2011 at 01:28AM
- The Nose, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 17/03/2011 at 09:39PM
- The Mega Traverse, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 08/01/2011 at 02:25AM
- Crash Test, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 06/01/2011 at 08:37PM
- Low Traverse Reverse- The Nose, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 06/01/2011 at 08:37PM
- Low Traverse, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 09/11/2010 at 11:23AM
- Mindbenderjelly, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 09/11/2010 at 11:20AM
- Limp Lizard, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 09/11/2010 at 11:20AM
- Humpty Dumpty, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 09/11/2010 at 11:20AM
- Fifty Pence Problem, Gentleman's Rock, Gentleman's Rock Area updated on 09/11/2010 at 11:18AM