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Description: One of the Peak's premiere venues hosts a deceptively large selection of problems. The quick-drying Trackside boulder is close to the road and ever popular. Gorilla Warfare and the Bad Landing boulder are home to steep linkups and power problems, and satellite areas tempt with the classics of Ben's Wall, Walk on By and Sean's Arete. However, there is much more to be found. A stroll along the edge will reveal The Art of White Hat Wearing, Bruno Mindhorn, Cloud Cuckoo Land, Big Friday and more...
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Sean's Arete (7B)
Art of Japan (6C+)
The Ultimate Gritstone Experience (6C)
Mini Prow (5 (hard))
Strawberries (6B)
Sloper Deadpoint Low Start (7A+)
Sidetrack (strict) (7A+ (hard))
Extended Warfare (7A (hard))
Hurricane (7C)
Mini Arete (3)
Cloud Cuckoo Land (7A+)
Last Light (6C (soft))
Crack and Pocket (6B) | Trackside | |||||
| 5+ |
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Mantel Problem | Just left of the arete, mantel past the slot. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Tracking | From the left arete, traverse the slopey break rightwards to finish up Strawberries. | ||
| 7C |
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Tracking Strict | No Crack for feet near end. | ||
| 7C+ |
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Tracking into Trackside | Continue traversing to finish up Trackside. | ||
| 5+ |
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Pocket Problem | Follow the pockets to the top. | ||
| 4 |
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Wall Problem | Straight up, right of the pockets. | ||
| 6B |
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Wall Problem Low Start | From the low break, power upwards. | ||
| 6B |
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Strawberries | The tricksome wall left of the crack, starting from thin seams. | ||
| 4+ (soft) |
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Wide Crack | ...is a wide crack. | ||
| 7C (hard) |
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Play Hard | From the two handed sloper, climb the wall right of the crack. | ||
| 8A+ |
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Work Hard | Direct up the centre of the slabby wall. | ||
| 7A |
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Sloper Deadpoint High Start | Climb left of the crack, with a deadpoint from the sidepull and sloper blob. Prior to ground level changes, the sloper was too high for many people to start from. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Sloper Deadpoint Low Start | Pull on with left hand sidepull, right hand low. Gain the sloper and continue as for the high start. | ||
| 6B |
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Crack and Pocket | Climb the crack on its left, using everything within reach. | ||
| 7A |
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Trackside | Climb the right arete on its left. | ||
| 7A |
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Sidetrack | The easiest version is also the tall person's solution. Reach high up the arete to start. | ||
| 7A+ (hard) |
|
Sidetrack (strict) | Eliminate the footblock to make the problem slightly harder and less reach dependant. | ||
| Gorilla Warfare | |||||
| 5 |
|
The offwidth | The wide crack from sitting. | ||
| 7A |
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Gorilla Warfare | From the off-width, traverse right to finish above the block. | ||
| 7A (hard) |
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Extended Warfare | Extend Gorilla Warfare to finish up the right arete, on its right. | ||
| 7B |
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Original Warfare | Start at the left end of the face. Traverse the lip of the block to the offwidth. Reverse this to the start of Gorilla Warfare. Follow Extended Warfare to the arete but pull round low, into the wide diagonal crack. From this make a big span to the far arete, and finish up this. | ||
| 7C |
|
Hurricane | From slopers right of the off-width, make a big move for the top. Holding it is the crux. | ||
| 7B |
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Jihad | From the off-width, gain the slopers used on Hurricane, then launch up and right for the Early Doors sloper. Finish up this. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Early Doors | From the off-width, traverse rightwards a few moves, then finish upwards via large slopers. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Humpin' | Sitstart the overhanging right arete of the block, using the polished foothold as a left hand pinch. The crack is off limits. Finish leftwards up Gorilla Warfare. | ||
| 7B |
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Reverse Traverse | From a sitstart on the jug rail round the right arete, reverse Extended Warfare and continue into Early Doors. | ||
| Bad Landing | |||||
| 7B (hard) |
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Late Junction | Sitstart with hands matched on the block beneath the left end of the Bad Landing boulder. Pull out to the lip and traverse right to the jug. Finish straight up as for the Lip Start problem. | ||
| 4 |
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Grooved Arete Left | The left arete. | ||
| 5 |
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Grooved Arete ?? | The right hand side of the grooved arete. May be harder now start is lower. | ||
| 7B+ (hard) |
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Le Musee Imaginaire | From the lip start jug, traverse left to finish up the arete. | ||
| 7C+ |
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Le Musee Imaginaire Extension | Link Huffy's Roof into Le Musee Imaginaire. | ||
| 7C+ (soft) |
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Huffy's Roof | Sitstart (be strict!) under the roof with right hand undercutting the pocket and left hand higher up the feature. Finish up Bad Landing Lip Start. | ||
| 8A+ |
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Supersize Me | From a sitstart matched on the obvious undercut, power into Huffy's Roof and keep on going. A super burly extension. | ||
| 7A |
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Bad Landing Lip Start | From the jug on the lip, do the upwards thing. | ||
| 2 (soft) |
|
unknown | |||
| Ben's Wall | |||||
| 6B (hard) |
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Tiny Overhang | Facing Ben's Wall is a small overhanging block. Sitstart this from the low hold. | ||
| 6C |
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Wall Traverse | From the left arete, traverse right to finish up the ramp. | ||
| 6A |
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Pebble Wall | Climb the left arete. | ||
| 7C |
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Ben's Wall | Climb the left-hand side of the wall, finishing by moving out left to the shoulder on the arete. | ||
| 7C |
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Great White | Climb the right-hand side of the wall, finishing at a big pocket. | ||
| Gorilla Warfare Slab | |||||
| 4 |
|
The Arete | ...is an important concept in Gk. philosophy, "virtue, excellence," lit. "that which is good." The comp. form is areion, the superl. is aristos (cf. aristocracy). | ||
| 7A (hard) |
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Dan's Wall | Sitstart the hanging arete, without the block. | ||
| 4 |
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The Slab | ...is slabby. | ||
| 4 (soft) |
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The Groove | ...is groovy. | ||
| Veale Thing | |||||
| 6B |
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Veale Thing | The left hand arete. E2. | ||
| 7A |
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Back Wall Right Hand | Pull on small crimps to reach a good hold at the right hand side of the face opposite Gorilla Warfare. | ||
| 7B |
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S-Crack Slap | Pull on with the "S-crack" left hand hold and right hand on a crimp further right. Bowl over to hit the jug. | ||
| 7A |
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Right of S-Crack | Climb the wall left of the arete. | ||
| 7C |
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Baby-belle | Start on the jug (finishing hold of S-Crack Slap), traverse right and finish up the left side of the arete. | ||
| 6B |
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Right Arete | Climb the tall right arete, on its right. | ||
| Mini Prow Boulder | |||||
| 6B |
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Mini Traverse | From the back, traverse round the front to finish up the prow. | ||
| 3 |
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Mini Arete | |||
| 4 (hard) |
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Mini Crack | |||
| 5 (hard) |
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Mini Prow | First climbed by a small car. | ||
| The Edge | |||||
| 7A (soft) |
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Marx's Wall | At the far left end of the crag is a wide crack facing Froggatt. Climb the wall left of this from sitting. | ||
| 6B |
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Scouse's Wall | |||
| 7B |
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The Art of White Hat Wearing | |||
| 7A+ (hard) |
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Be Somebody or Be Somebody's Fool | |||
| 6B+ |
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Slopey Wall | Behind End of the Affair is a broad open gully, which is easiest approached from above. The rounded upper wall of the gully can be climbed anywhere at around 6b to 6c. | ||
| 6B+ |
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Cloud Arete | The arete left of Cloud Cuckoo Land from sitting. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Cloud Cuckoo Land | Behind End of the Affair is a broad open gully, which is easiest approached from above. This climbs the centre of the lower wall, above blocks, from sitting. | ||
| Sean's Arete | |||||
| 7B |
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Ramboid | On the crag itself, directly underneath the groove of Janus. Mantel onto a slippy triangular ledgelet just above head-height. | ||
| 6A |
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Janus Start | The rib right of Ramboid. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Spray Mane | On the wall left of Sean's problem is a big dyno from pockets, above the pointy block. | ||
| 7B |
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Sean's Arete | The left side of the arete next to the route Maupasssant, with the crux sticking the slopey break (finish). | ||
| Not a Jerry Boulder | |||||
| 7A+ |
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Not a Jerry Traverse | Traverse the length of the boulder along the low break. | ||
| 6C |
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Not a Problem For Jerry | From low, pull up slopers on the right hand side of the face. | ||
| Beneath The Edge | |||||
| 6C+ |
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The Green Mile | Mission along the track a long way past Trackside and Ben's Wall. Staying right at junctions [not obvious] brings you to this boulder. The Green Mile climbs the left arete from sitting. | ||
| 6C |
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The Ultimate Gritstone Experience | Hug both aretes from sitting. | ||
| 7B |
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Touch Winky | The right arete from sitting. | ||
| 7B (soft) |
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Bruno Mindhorn | About 60 metres right of, and beneath the route Slackers is a low roof. Start on a jug in the roof and finish up the arete. | ||
| 6C+ (hard) |
|
Break out the Trumpets | The steep arete beneath Bruno Mindhorn. | ||
| Far Left Edge | |||||
| 7A (soft) |
|
Marx's Wall | At the far left end of the crag is a wide crack facing Froggatt. Climb the wall left of this from sitting. | ||
| 6B |
|
Scouse's Wall | |||
| 7B |
|
The Art of White Hat Wearing | |||
| 7C |
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The Art of Jimmy Hat Wearing | The scrittly wall just right of The Art of White Hat wearing. | ||
| 7A+ (hard) |
|
Be Somebody or Be Somebody's Fool | |||
| End Of The Affair Area | |||||
| 6B |
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The Start of the Affair | On the steep wall below Moon Buttress, just left of the obvious groove climb from breaks to short thin cracks and the top | ||
| 5+ (hard) |
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Left Eliminette | The steep groove on the wall below Moon Buttress | ||
| 6B+ |
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Slopey Wall | Behind End of the Affair is a broad open gully, which is easiest approached from above. The rounded upper wall of the gully can be climbed anywhere at around 6b to 6c. | ||
| 6B |
|
Cloud Arete | The arete left of Cloud Cuckoo Land from sitting. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Cloud Cuckoo Land | Behind End of the Affair is a broad open gully, which is easiest approached from above. This climbs the centre of the lower wall, above blocks, from sitting. | ||
| 7A+ |
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The Arse of Japan | A lefthand/direct variation of Art of Japan. A tricky slap for the edge on the standard problem from flat unercuts | ||
| 6C |
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Art of Japan | An obscure John Allen classic. Up the middle of the north wall of a block set high on the edge, right of Apollo butress. | ||
| 6C+ |
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Talon Man Dyno | Flake to ledge dyno upwall between the start of Baron's Wall and Smoke On't Watter | ||
| 7A (hard) |
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Downhill Gardener | |||
| 6A (soft) |
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Button Moon | Blind flake and pocket to edges and break | ||
| 6C (soft) |
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Last Light | Wall right of Rat Scabies, reach the hold in the middle of the wall then make a hard move for the break. | ||
| Walk on By Quarry | |||||
| 7C+ |
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Walk on By | At the right end of the crag is a smooth white quarry. Climb the wall above the right end of the raised ledge. Repeated since hold breakage, no change in grade. | ||
| 6C |
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Small Arete | From sitting, climb the small arete in the middle of the bay. | ||
| Curbar Corner | |||||
| 5+ |
|
Neat | The left arete of the corner | ||
| 5 |
|
Curbar Corner | Bridging up the excellent corner. | ||
| 5+ |
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Little Stiffer | The right arete of the corner on its left hand side. | ||
| 7B (soft) |
|
Jamie and His Magic Torch | The right arete of the corner on its right hand side. Balancey, with a tricky deadpoint to a sloper high on the arete. | ||
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info