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Worrying Footwork (6C+ (hard))
Brain Dead (6C)
T Crack (7B (hard))
Razor Roof (6C)
Razor Roof Link Up (7A+)
Central Slab (5 (hard))
Runnel (4+)
Lower Slung (7B+)
Double Aretes (4+)
Left of Cheggers (6C)
Slab LH (4 (soft))
Protrusions (6B)
Low Slab RH (6A)
Low Slab LH (5) | Razor Roof Area | |||||
| 4 (soft) |
|
Slab LH | The left slab on its left. | ||
| 5 |
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Slab RH | The left slab on its right. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Look at Me! | Chimney and jam through the crack in the roof. | ||
| 7A |
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Left Arete | The left of the double aretes, on its right. | ||
| 4+ |
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Double Aretes | The double aretes on the block left of Razor Roof. | ||
| 6C+ (hard) |
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Worrying Footwork | The left arete of Razor Roof, using disconcerting foot placements. | ||
| 6C |
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Razor Roof | From jugs at the back of the cave, cross the roof and use the razors to cut a dash on the final throw. | ||
| 7A (hard) |
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Razor Roof Right to Left | Start up Razor Roof then traverse the crimps rightwards to finish up Protrusions | ||
| 6B |
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Protrusions | Start at a low break on the right. Head upwards via protruding crimps. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Razor Roof Link Up | From Protrusions, traverse into Razor Roof. | ||
| 5+ |
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Slab in the Middle | The block right of Razor Roof hosts a slab. | ||
| 5+ |
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Crimps | Just right of the crack, use crimps on the lip. | ||
| 6C |
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Horrible Lump | From low holds, utilise the horrible lump to reach crimps at the lip. | ||
| 6C |
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Thrutch Over | Mount the lip near a small seam, and swim into the runnel above. | ||
| 6A |
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Another Grunting Mantel | Further right, on the same wall. | ||
| 5 |
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Low Slab LH | A green slab lurks below the rest of the problems. From low on the left, climb upwards. | ||
| 6A |
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Low Slab RH | On the right side of the slab, mantel upwards from a start with right hand in crack. | ||
| The Egg | |||||
| 5+ |
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Left Slab | |||
| 5 (hard) |
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Central Slab | Scoops point into the slab above. | ||
| 6B (soft) |
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Blunt Arete | Slopers lead upwards. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Eggy Face | Very slopey. Very tricky. | ||
| 5+ |
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Right Arete | Use the high flake. | ||
| T Crack | |||||
| 7B (hard) |
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T Crack | From a start on the block at the back, climb through the roof on undercuts and use the crack to reach the break. Powerful moves lead upwards. The footblock to the right is not in, nor is the chip in the break. | ||
| 7C |
|
T Crack Footless | Hang holds under the roof and climb footless to the break. Once at this point, feet are allowed. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Mr T | An eliminate on T Crack making the best use of the right arete. Gain crack as per T crack then move right to the arete and climb this. Eliminate all holds in the midway break on T Crack | ||
| 6C |
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T Crack Slab | The right wall of T-Crack forms a slab. Climb this, with a slap to the final sloper. | ||
| Jerry's traverse | |||||
| 7B+ |
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Jerry's Reverse | Reverse Jerry's traverse, from far left, to finish up Cheggers can't be Boozers. | ||
| 6A |
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V Cleft | Mantel the lip at the V-shaped cleft. | ||
| 5+ |
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Lunge | From the juggy break on the left, lunge to good holds and rockover. | ||
| 6C |
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Left of Cheggers | From sitting, gain the left hand gaston of Cheggers as a right hand sidepull. Swing up and left to protrusions and rock up to finish. | ||
| 7A (soft) |
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Cheggers can't be Boozers - originally called The Lark Ascending | Start at low slots and tackle the leaning wall above. | ||
| 7B |
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Jerry's Traverse | From the start of Cheggers can't be Boozers, work leftwards along the break. Finish either at the far left, or up Lunge. | ||
| 7C |
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Jerry's Traverse There and Back | Traverse to far left, then return. Finish up Cheggers can't be Boozers. | ||
| Boring Traverse | |||||
| 6C |
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Boring Traverse | Traverse the block below Jerry's Traverse, from left to right. | ||
| Fun Traverse | |||||
| 6C+ |
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Fun Traverse | The block below Boring Traverse holds a good right to left traverse. | ||
| Serpico | |||||
| 6C |
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Serpico | From the back, gain the lip via a pocket. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Shunting Biscuits | Start up Serpico, then traverse the ramp leftwards to a mantel finish. | ||
| Converted | |||||
| 7B+ |
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Converted | From scooped undercuts, reach a sloper, footlock in break, then make a big spab to the base of the sloping ramp. From here, head up to the undercut with left hand. Cut loose, foot up, wobble to the top... | ||
| Hermit's Cave | |||||
| 6B |
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Hermit's Cave Traverse | From the bars, swing rightwards. Finish at the crescent shaped crack. | ||
| Hidden Boulder | |||||
| 5+ |
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Steep Arete | From the low shelf, ascend the steep arete. | ||
| Groove Boulder | |||||
| 4 |
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Slabs | The block just next to the Groove boulder has lots of easy slab problems. | ||
| 4 |
|
Back Wall | The back of the groove boulder. | ||
| 6B |
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Chipped Arete. | The arete left of the groove, from sitting. | ||
| 6B+ |
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Dawes's Scoop | The tricky groove. | ||
| 7B |
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Dawes's Scoop Sitstart | Hard from sitting. | ||
| 6C |
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Groove Traverse | From the groove, traverse slopers on the lip, to finish up the arete. | ||
| Chipped Boulder | |||||
| 4 |
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Left Slab | The slab left of the arete. Try avoiding the chips. | ||
| 4 |
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Arete | The chipped arete. | ||
| 4+ |
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Right Slab | Try avoiding the chip. The arete is out. | ||
| Easy Boulder | |||||
| 4+ |
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Scoop | |||
| 4+ |
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Arete | The arete on its left. | ||
| 4+ |
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Runnel | Climb the runnel. | ||
| Arete Boulder | |||||
| 4 |
|
Flake | Left of the arete. | ||
| 5+ |
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Arete | Climb the arete on its left. | ||
| 5+ |
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The Rib | Use the pinch to ascend the rib. No arete. | ||
| Tall Slab | |||||
| 5 |
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Slab Left | Climb the left side of the slab. | ||
| 5+ |
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Pockets | Climb the slabby wall, using pockets. | ||
| 5 |
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Right Arete | Climb the arete via a pocket. | ||
| 4 |
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Ramp | Right of the tall slab boulder is a slab with a rampline. Climb this. | ||
| Slopey Green Traverse | |||||
| 7A |
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Low Slung | Behind and right of the Tall Slab boulder, sitstart this block on its left arete, move into the high break then on rightwards to finish via the scoop. | ||
| 7C+ (soft) |
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Lower Slung | Start and finish as for Low Slung, but use the low crimps in the middle rather than the high break. | ||
| Tit Traverse | |||||
| 7A |
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Tit Traverse | Start on the left and grope rightwards. | ||
| Fern Hill | |||||
| 7C+ |
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Three Hundred Pounds of Musclin' Man | The direct start to the obvious arete. Finish at the break. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Percy's Cornflake | In the small cave on the left wall of the gully, start from a jug on the right. Climb the wall to the break. | ||
| The Arch | |||||
| 6C+ |
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The Arch | Climb the arch from sitting. | ||
| 6A |
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Arete | The right arete, from sitting. | ||
| Brian's Private Arete | |||||
| 7B |
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Brian's Private Arete | Sitstart the right arete using specific holds: start from left hand undercut and right hand arete. Now pull on and leap for the top. | ||
| Brain Dead | |||||
| 6C |
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Brain Dead | The impressive sharp arete. | ||
| 7B |
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Brain Dead Low Start | The impressive sharp arete, from a low start. | ||
| 6A |
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Lost Arete | On a boulder behind Brain dead. There is a good hold at half height. | ||
| Sparrow | |||||
| 7C |
|
Sparrow / My Best Friend The Watermelon | The start is the crux. Layback up the 45 degree arete for a few moves, then employ a heel and some hand shuffling. From here, the next few moves to the jug are reported to be easy if the heel stays on. If not, it's a frightening landing... | ||
| 7B |
|
Sparrow's Right Wing | The right arete of the block. | ||
| Babu Yagu | |||||
| 7B (hard) |
|
Babu Yagu | Follow the finger ramp left of Grimoire to its end, then out to a good hold on the arete. | ||
| 7A+ |
|
Chess Boxer | Climb the steep, undercut arete (Grimoire E6 climbs up its right side). High, but the dodgy step in the landing has now been filled with logs to give a decent platform. | ||
| Hueco Wall | |||||
| 6C+ |
|
Percy's Start | From low on the left of the wall, use edges to reach the traverse line. Follow this to the far right. | ||
| 7B |
|
Percy's Start into Chapel of Rest | Link Percy's Start into Chapel of Rest. | ||
| 7B |
|
Percy's Start into Wish | Link Percy's Start into Wish. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Chapel of Rest | From the left Hueco, go for the slopey top. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Wish | Undercut the right hueco and make for a hidden hold over the top. | ||
| 6C+ |
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Break Traverse | Follow the tricky break from right to left, finishing up the left arete. | ||
| 7B |
|
Jamie Big Hands | Just right of Hueco Wall, climb the small undecut prow to finish up the slab feature. | ||
| Percy's Roof | |||||
| 7A+ |
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72 | From matched on the big hole in the roof, climb leftwards to the boss on the lip. From here, follow the slopey rail left to a mantel finish. | ||
| 7A+ |
|
72 Direct | Start up 72. Once at the boss on the lip foolow the hanging arete to its end. | ||
| 7B |
|
P Crack | Climb the centre of the roof, from sitting at the back pocket. Use pockets to reach a sloper below the lip, then employ toe hooks in the hueco to attain the hanging crack. Follow this to the top. | ||
| Low Slung | |||||
| 7A |
|
Low Slung | Traverse the low boulder, from left to right. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Lower Slung | A lower eliminate version of Low Slung, using poor crimps. From a sitstart on the left arete, swing into the low crimps and make hard moves rightwards to more crimps. From these, slap up and right to the top. | ||
| Basic Block | |||||
| 6A |
|
Slot Ladder | The left side of the side wall from a sit start in a hole | ||
| 6A+ |
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Edgucation | The middle/right of the side wall from sitting | ||
| Scoops Wall | |||||
| 6B |
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Little Greenie Arete | The sharp left arete of the crack from sitting (at the start of the route Little Greenie). Harder and less pleasant than it looks due to polish. | ||
| 7A |
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Pinchers' Wall | The centre of the wall from a reachy stand start (double mat needed unless tall). Use a flared pinch and poor dink to slap for a thin rail and easy topout. | ||
| North Wall | |||||
| 7A (soft) |
|
Invasion of the Cider Women Direct | The crux of an old Andy Barker route which started high on the left off the boulder, cleaned and with a quality direct start added. Climb to a pocket high on the left via the beautiful ramp/stairway. Rock right to a slot and then make a big (crux) move to the break. Trav off or finish as per the route up juggy pockets out right. | ||
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info