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Tombstone (7A+)
Bulge LH (6C (hard))
Right Arete (5)
Blind Flake (6A+)
Bulge RH (7A)
Slot Problem (4+) | Hairpin Boulder | |||||
| 7C+ |
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Jelly Bomb | Sitstart and finish up Bullitt. | ||
| 7A |
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Bullitt | The standing start to Jelly Bomb. Pull on using the chip and go direct to the top. | ||
| 6B+ |
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Chip Problem | Use the head-height bullet hole chip to power into the groove, then the top. | ||
| 6C |
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Vanishing Point | From the start of Shelf Mantel, traverse left round the arete, to finish via the crack and then the rounded groove to the left. | ||
| 6B+ |
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Jump Before You Look | From the start of Crash Test, climb left to finish up the crack. | ||
| 6B+ |
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Crash Test LH | From the same start as Crash Test, climb the arete on its left. | ||
| 6B+ |
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Crash Test | From sitting at twin cracks, climb the arete on its right. | ||
| 4+ |
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Shelf Mantel | Mantel the shelf. | ||
| 4+ |
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Slot Problem | Use the horizontal slot to make upwards progress. | ||
| Renegade Master | |||||
| 6C |
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Frog Jam | The squeezed in block left of the bulge boulder is almost a problem. Sitstart from low holds and grovel over the top. | ||
| 6C (hard) |
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Bulge LH | The bulging boulder left of the main buttress. Sitstart in the middle and climb without using the right arete or footledge out left. | ||
| 7A |
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Bulge RH | Sitstart with a hand on the low flake and use the arete to make a taxing rockover onto the large flat jug. | ||
| 6A+ |
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Sheliminate | On the slabby wall right of the bulging boulder. A tricky sitter left of the arete, starting matched on the obvious sloper. No arete. | ||
| 6B |
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Left Arete | Climb the left arete of the side wall, on its right. | ||
| 6A |
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Frog Road | From the left arete of the side wall, traverse right to finish up the right arete. | ||
| 5 |
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Side Wall | |||
| 6A+ |
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Croak | From standing, climb the small block at the back of the bay, via its right hand arete. | ||
| 6C |
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Lie Detector | On the tiny wall right of Croak. A very low start: hands on the rail, slap to the top. Odd. | ||
| 7C+ (soft) |
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Renegade Master | The awesome overhang is possible above pads... From the back of the roof, reach the lip and work rightwards, campussing on small edges. Finish round the arete. | ||
| 7C |
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Dave's Dyno | Pull on to the arete with left hand undercling and right hand arete. Dyno to the slopey break. | ||
| 7A (soft) |
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Thuggy Bear | Sitstart the arete on its right. Use heels and slap upwards to gain the shelf. Traverse right to top out at the end of the shelf. | ||
| Tombstone | |||||
| 4 (soft) |
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Groove | |||
| 6A+ |
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Blind Flake | Left of centre, a blind flake leads the way. | ||
| 7B |
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Shallow Grave | Climb the most central line. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Tombstone | Climb the wall via the large pocket on the right hand side. Good holds are usually reached by a dyno. | ||
| 5 |
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Right Arete | |||
| Ape Drape | |||||
| 7A+ |
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Ape Drape Direct Finish | Traverse as for Ape Drape, but finish over the capping stone with a gnarly mantel. | ||
| 6C+ (hard) |
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Ape Drape | From good holds on the right, traverse the flakes leftwards to finish upwards when possible. | ||
| Pig Heart Boy | |||||
| 7B |
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Pig Heart Boy | Over to the left of the small bay, above a pit. Use the large sloper to gain higher holds on the left and rockover to the top. | ||
| 6B |
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Cast Off | The wall left of Leggit. | ||
| 6B |
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Leggit | Climb the short crack in the bay left of Sunset Slab. Downclimbing is a little tricky. | ||
| Rambeau | |||||
| 5 |
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Cave Crawl | Not strictly climbing, but great fun. At the back of the cave is a tunnel, accessed by a few upwards moves. Reach the tunnel and enter. Shuffle rightwards to an easy exit above. | ||
| 7B |
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Rambeau | The overhanging left arete of the large Cave right of Beau Geste. A French start is the easiest way to gain the higher holds. Make powerful moves to get stood up and reach a break. | ||
| 7B |
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Rambeau (strict) | Climb Rambeau without a French start. | ||
| Tody's Playground | |||||
| 7A+ |
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Pocket Problem ?? | Pocket problem on the right ?? | ||
| Pinnacle Boulders | |||||
| Froggatt Pinnacle | |||||
| 7A+ |
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Pinnacle Traverse | From low on the left wall, traverse rightwards around the arete. Climb up Oedipus Direct and reverse the traverse to its start. | ||
| 7A |
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Pinnacle Traverse Lite | Finishing up Oedipus Direct is easier and still a worthwile outing. | ||
| 7C+ |
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Neon Dust Direct | Crimp upwards left of the arete. The grade varies wildly depending on how high you start and finish. Morpho. | ||
| 7A |
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Old Problem | Climb the wall left of Oedipus Direct, without any handholds on that problem. Start just right of the arete and move up to crimps, then more crimping. | ||
| 7A |
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Oedipus Direct (hard version) | Climb straight up to the end of the traverse. If you don't have the wingspan to make an easy reach, the problem becomes more involved. | ||
| 6B |
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Oedipus Direct (easy version) | Climb straight up to the end of the traverse. Relatively straightforward if you have long enough arms. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Mint 400 Start | Using tiny holds, crimp upwards to the traverse line. | ||
| 6B |
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Oedipus Traverse | From the right-hand cave, traverse leftwards to the end of the break. | ||
| Jetpack Boulders | |||||
| 7B |
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Gibsonitus | Facing uphill, this is 20m left of the two large boulders. climb the overhanging arete from a sitting start, hugging the rib. Small crimps and heelhooks abound. | ||
| 7A+ |
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The Sound of One Foot Slipping | On the downhill facing right arete of the top boulder. From the low break, climb the right arete on its left to reach a flake and an awkward crux move onto the slab above. Finish up the green slab above. Can you hear something? | ||
| 7C+ |
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My Orange | Start up The Sound of One Foot slipping and traverse the slopey lip leftwards until an escape becomes possible. Not yet done ground up. | ||
| 7B |
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Jetpack (strict) | On the uphill side of the bottom boulder, facing The Sound of One Foot Slipping. Start sitting at the two lowest holds (a good lh sidepull and poor rh hold). Dyno from these to the square jug. | ||
| 7A |
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Jetpack | Start sitting and gain the jug. | ||
| 7A |
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Jetpack LH | Using the leftmost of the Jetpack holds, and another hold to the left of this, go straight to the lip. | ||
| 7C |
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Pea Crab Shuffle | On the uphill side of the bottom boulder, traverse the lip from far left to far right. An epic migration. | ||
| 7B |
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Scandalous | On the downhill face of the bottom boulder, traverse the break from right to left, starting in the middle. Finish up the highball arete. | ||
| 7A |
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The Green 45 | 20m downhill from the Jetpack end of the large boulders is a steep wall topped by an easy angled green slab. Climb the centre, with the crux holding the swing at the lip. | ||
| Joe's Slab | |||||
| 7A+ |
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Direct Start to Downhill Racer | Frustratingly thin slab climbing up the centre of the wall left of Joe's Slab. Finish on good edges. If you find it easy you need to stay in more. | ||
| 6B |
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The Arete | Wierd climbing to surmount the bulge. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Joe's Slab Eliminate 1 | Right of the arete, climb the desperate wall to the top. | ||
| 6C+ |
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Mono-Seam Problem | Reach the crescent holds directly, without the good holds to the right. | ||
| 6A |
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Joe's Original | Follow the obvious holds upwards, trending left. | ||
| 6C |
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Joe's Slab Eliminate 2 | Climb the wall right of Joe's Original, eliminating big holds. | ||
| 7A |
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Joe's Slab Traverse High | Traverse with feet along the head height change of angle, from right to left. Finish up the left arete. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Joe's Slab Traverse Low | Traverse low, from right to left. Finish up the arete. | ||
| 7C+ (soft) |
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Toyboy | boulder out the route on the RHS of the great slab direct without using the crack to the right. Morpho | ||
| Detached block | |||||
| 5 |
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The Crack | |||
| 6B+ |
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Roof and Runnel | From the back of the cave, climb out to gain the crack and finally jugs. | ||
| 7C |
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Lankaster Bomber | Climb the rib and wall just right of the roof and runnel. The very tall will be able to reach a small crimp whilst standing on a big foothold. The not so tall will find this very hard. | ||
| 6C |
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Thin Slab | To the right of the detahced block is a thin slab. | ||
| 6C |
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Nutty Land Sitstart | Sitstart the route up the centre of the flake. | ||
| Chequers Buttress | |||||
| 7C+ |
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Slingshot | Right of the corner, a steep wall rises to meet a ledge. Climb it dynamically, using lots of mats. | ||
| 7C+ (hard) |
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Chequers Groove | The groove to the right of Slingshot. Bring extra pads. | ||
| 7C |
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Business Lunch | Climb the wall left of the arete of Sole Power to the break. | ||
| 7C (soft) |
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Sole Power | Climb the hanging arete on its left, with tricky heel hooking. | ||
| 7C |
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Our Soles | Climb the hanging arete on its right. | ||
| 7C |
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Jankers Wall ?? | Climb the wall, using the crack for feet. | ||
| 6C |
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Jankers Groove Sitstart | Nasty fist-jamming up Jankers Groove. From sitting. | ||
| Froggatt Over the Road | |||||
| 5+ |
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Tall Arete | Climb the left arete. | ||
| 6B |
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Sideways Says Sigmund | Start bridged between block and slab, and press left to finish on the arete. | ||
| 5+ |
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Ants On The Moon | Layback and/or grovel up the offwidth. | ||
| 6A+ |
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Computer Say No LH | Climb the left arete on its right, using the thin crack to swing upwards. | ||
| 7B |
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Computer Say No ?? | Climb right of the left arete ?? Unconfirmed. | ||
| Big Woods Boulder | |||||
| 6A+ |
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Splattacake | Climb the groove from a sitter at the crack, to a highball finish. | ||
| 6A |
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Rampage | Start as for Splattacake and traverse the crack and ramp right to finish up the obvious weakness. | ||
| 7A |
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Dreamboat | The excellent slab, started from the slopey pocket, and finishing in the high niche. | ||
| 6A+ |
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Breeze | Climb the leftwards leading slopes direct to the ledge. | ||
| 5+ |
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Cheese | Start a little right of Breeze and climb the vague rib. | ||
| 5+ |
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Squeeze | Climb the wall left of the arete, eliminating holds on adjacent problems. | ||
| 4 |
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Ease | Slab and arete | ||
| 6C |
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Teddybear's Picnic | Sitstart on the long incut hold and traverse left round the undercut arete, finishing upwards at end. | ||
| 5 |
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Big Surprise (standing) | The arete, starting on its right, and rocking onto the slab higher up. | ||
| 7A |
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Big Surprise | From sitting at the incut hold, layback the undercut arete on its right, with a dynamic move to the break. Rock onto the ledge and finish via the slabby side. | ||
| Small Woods Boulders | |||||
| 4 |
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Bottoms Up | Sitstart the low arete left of Scurry, from the protruding jug. | ||
| 5+ |
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Scurry | Sitstart the arete left of Daylight Grubbery, on its left. | ||
| 6B |
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Daylight Grubbery | From sitting, climb the left arete of the offwidth. | ||
| 5 |
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Goodnight Tiger | Left arete of the green face, on its right. | ||
| 7A |
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Holy Green | Climb the wall, without either arete. Start on left hand sidepull and right hand gaston. | ||
| 6B |
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Morning Wood | The right arete of the downhill face on its left. | ||
| Right-Hand Woods Boulder | |||||
| 6A+ |
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Eat Your Greens | The left arete of the downhill face, from a sitstart on the left. | ||
| 6C |
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Nobody Nose | The left arete of the downhill face has unobvious moves from a sitstart on its right. | ||
| 7A (hard) |
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Emerald Aisle | Sitstart the mossy wall left of the arete, following sidepulls to a slap for the top. Footblock not allowed (left foot starts on face). | ||
| 5+ |
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Wolfenstein | The right arete of the downhill face, from standing. Trickiness to get stood up. | ||
| 6A+ |
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White Lycan (standing) | The right-hand face of this boulder. | ||
| 7B |
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White Lycan | The right-hand face of this boulder. A powerful sitstart move leads to the technicalities of the standup. | ||
| 6C |
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The Other Half Has Hairy Legs | The arete right of White Lycan, from sitting. | ||
| The Boat | |||||
| 5+ |
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Christmas | On the wall between boulders, work up the cave and swim over the protruding ledge. | ||
| 4+ |
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Boat Wall | Aim for the ledge to the right of the cave, then continue upwards on boatiful holds. | ||
| 5 |
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The Cabin | Climb the round arete. | ||
| 5+ |
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Dirty Wall | On the downhill side, climb the dirty wall just right of the route Z Crack. | ||
| 5+ |
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Tom and Elsie | From a sitstart beneath the roof to the right, use the crack and anything else to gain the crack higher up. | ||
| The Barrel | |||||
| 7A |
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Barrel Organist | On the left of the wall 15m to the left, leap to the break and climb the vague rib. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Glorious Gritstone Mantelshelf | In the centre of the wall 15m to the left, jump to a sloper. Push on using more slopers and undercuts. | ||
| 6A |
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Avoiding the Treetors | The right arete of the main buttress, next to a tree. Climb the arete on its right. | ||
| Krypton Buttress | |||||
| 7A |
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Nine Pebble Slab | The slabby wall left of the arete. Count the pebbles... | ||
| 6A+ |
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Brainflower | Climb the arete on its right, from sitting. | ||
| Downes' Buttress Upper Tier | |||||
| 6C |
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Biscuits for Cheese | Lower down than the rest of the upper tier problems, start from the grassy ledge and climb the steep wall to a crux gaining the pocket near the top. | ||
| 7A |
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Box of Frogs | From a block at the base of the chasm, follow crimps and slopers up the curved wall. Spotters may need anchors. Scary. | ||
| 6C |
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Lake of Flakes | From a low start, follow flakes to finish either via scoop or rib. | ||
| 6B |
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Armadillo Pillow | From sitting, climb the large, hollow flakes. | ||
| 6A |
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V Ear | From sitting, climb the right arete on its left. | ||
| 6B |
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The Trees' Knees | Climb the blunt nose to the right. Start from hanging and climb it on its right. | ||
| Downes' Buttress Lower Tier | |||||
| 6A+ |
|
Matchbox Arete | The diminutive arete just left of the slab, from sitting. | ||
| 6A |
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Gripper Grab | The direct start to Slipper Slab - climb the wall left of the Glass Slipper arete. | ||
| 7A |
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Glass Slipper | The arete on its right. Finish at the rounded jug. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Glass Slipper Sitstart | The arete on its right, from sitting. Finish at the rounded jug. | ||
| 6B |
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Downes' Crimps | On the right of the large detached wall, crimp upwards to gain the arete. | ||
| Esau’s Buttress | |||||
| 7A+ |
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Chin Mania | Climb the leaning nose/prow. Start up the flake, then aim for a good slot. From here, head into the groove, then rock right to finish on the nose. | ||
| Brook Boulders | |||||
| 7B+ |
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Old King Cascade | Climb the impressive horizontal prow from a sitter at the very back, with a crux move gaining the good notch on the nose. | ||
| 7C |
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Ol' Man River | Climb the sidewall of the Old King Cascade prow, from the jug. The back wall is not allowed. | ||
| 6A+ |
|
Delicarete | The arete of the wall beside the brook. | ||
| 6B |
|
Fisherman's Friend | This little arete is a little down river from Delicarete. | ||
| Ladies' Buttress | |||||
| 7C |
|
Ladies' Wall | Climb the small leaning wall, from a sitstart on the right. Needs good spotting. | ||
| 6A+ |
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Belly Dancer Start | A boulder problem start the the E1 - climb just right of the crack. | ||
| 6A+ |
|
Burnt Sienna | In the centre of the buttress, start at a low break and power up the flake to finish at the ledge. | ||
| 7A+ |
|
Kimb's Limbs | On a shelf just above the preceding problems, there is a trio of challenges. The first on the left is a left leaning rib. | ||
| 6B+ |
|
Carry On Screaming | The layback crack, with a gruelling top out. | ||
| 7C |
|
Les Grands Doigts | Just right of the crack, climb the excellent and very technical arete. | ||
| 6A+ |
|
Bad Landing Crack | On the sidewall up and right, climb the small crack. | ||
| 6A |
|
Flipworker | Sitstart and clamp up the low shield, without using the block on the left. | ||
| 6A+ |
|
Flipper | Sitstart the right arete, to gain the dolphin head feature. | ||
| The Loaf | |||||
| 6B |
|
Spooky wall | A worrying line above the stacked boulders on the left of the buttress. | ||
| 6B |
|
Toasted | A good strenuous problem on the right side of the boulder. From the break, lurch right up the slanting ramp. | ||
| 7A |
|
Hot Butter Knives | Start sitting on the right arête, then pull up and left to the thin horizontal break. Use this to gain and finish up Toasted. | ||
| 7B |
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The Stottie | The right arête direct, from a sitter on it's left side, gives a quality problem. | ||
| The Frog | |||||
| 4+ |
|
Froggit | Traverse the break from left to right, and finish up the wall left of the arete. | ||
| 4+ |
|
error | |||
| 5+ |
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Kermit's Finger | The centre of the wall 3m right of the left arete. | ||
| The Gully | |||||
| 6C |
|
Gully dyno | Dyno from break to sloping top. | ||
| 6C+ |
|
Fiddler's Arete | Climb the tricky arete, right of the dyno. | ||
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info