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Blind Fig (7C)
Monochrome (7B)
Side Wall (5+)
All Quiet on the Eastern Front (6A+)
Hanging Arete (7A (hard))
The Sphinx (7A+)
Boyager (7A+ (hard))
Cleo's Edge (5+)
The Chant (5 (hard))
The Terrace (7C (soft))
Zaff Skoczylas (lying start) (7C (soft))
Life in a Radioactive Dustbin (6C)
Banana Reverse (7A)
Small is Beautiful (7A)
La Terrace (8A) | 20 Foot Crack Area | |||||
| 5 (hard) |
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The Chant | The wall left of the crack. | ||
| 4 |
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20 Foot Crack | |||
| 5 |
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The Curse | The centre of the wall right of the crack. | ||
| 6A |
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Lost in France | Just left of the right arete. | ||
| 6B |
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Triangular Traverse | From the start of Triangle Buttress Direct, traverse rightwards, past Triangle Crack on crimps, and via a wide bridge, and a lunge to a jug. Carry on to finish easily on Steptoe. | ||
| Banana Finger Area | |||||
| 6C |
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Definitive 5.12 | The cave and roof crack left of Banana Finger. From the back, follow the straight out. | ||
| 7A (hard) |
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Definitive 5.12 LH exit | The cave and roof crack left of Banana Finger. From the back, follow the crack to a tricky leftwards exit. | ||
| 5+ |
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Side Wall | The side wall to the left of Bannana Finger and under the roof has a delightful crack. Start in the break and using polished smears go up to the crack and then the next break. | ||
| 7B |
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Cinzano Roof | Balanced atop the edge above and left of Banana Finger, is a boulder forming a small roof. Start from an edge and pocket. | ||
| 6C |
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Cinzano Roof RH | Start Cinzano Roof from the block on the right, and reach the pocket. | ||
| 7A |
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Banana Reverse | From jugs on the left arete, traverse into Banana Finger Direct, then reverse the Banana Finger traverse. | ||
| 6C (soft) |
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Banana Finger Direct | Wierd moves lead over the bulge and into the finish of Banana Finger. | ||
| 6C |
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Sloper Pull | Head up from slopers right of Banana Finger Direct. | ||
| 7C |
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Trav's Rumour | An eliminate problem. Climb left of Banana Finger, without the breaks. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Banana Traverse | Traverse the lip leftwards, to finish up the arete. | ||
| 6A |
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Banana Finger | Traverse crimps and slots leftwards, to rockover for the high break. | ||
| 7A (soft) |
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Little Brown Jug LH | On the buttress right of Remergence. Left of Wednesday Climb, start sitting on the left, and straight up avoiding the dab. | ||
| 6C |
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Little Brown Jug RH | Left of Wednesday Climb, start low on the right, using the arete. | ||
| 6C |
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Life in a Radioactive Dustbin | The roof right of Wednesday Climb. | ||
| All Quiet | |||||
| 6A |
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Traverse | Traverse the low break in either direction. | ||
| 6A+ |
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All Quiet on the Eastern Front | From good holds on the left of the wall, traverse rightwards to the jug, then climb straight up. | ||
| 7A+ |
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All Quiet Direct | Climb direct into All Quiet, using small holds. | ||
| 7B |
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All Sit-Down | From the low jug, work upwards. | ||
| 4+ |
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The Busker | Wall left of the crack. | ||
| 4 |
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Bracken Crack | The crack. | ||
| 4+ |
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Green Slab | The wall right of the crack. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Fallen Slab Lip | Just below and right of the All Quiet area is a fallen slab. Traverse the lip rightwards. The back arete is in. Swing left to finish. | ||
| 7B |
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Fallen Slab Lip (strict) | Traverse the lip rightwards, without the back arete. Swing left to finish. | ||
| Remergence | |||||
| 7A |
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Small is Beautiful | Climb the slightly overhanging highball wall left of the Remergence Area. Big moves between breaks. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Blind Ali | Traverse the lip left to right, using holds on the roof below, but not on the back wall. | ||
| 7C+ |
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Break Traverse | Start in the Hanging Rib slots and traverse the break rightwards. No holds above the break. | ||
| 6C |
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The Hanging Rib | From the break, reach the rib and manouevere upwards. | ||
| 6C (hard) |
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Two Sloper Eliminate | An eliminate. From the break, reach straight to the rib, then reach the twin slopers instead of the crimp. Go to the top from here. | ||
| 7B (soft) |
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One Sloper Eliminate | An eliminate. From the break, reach straight to the rib, then reach the left hand sloper. Go to the top from here. | ||
| 7A+ (hard) |
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Zaf's Groove | Climb between Hanging Rib and Remergence, to reach the jug on Hanging Rib. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Submergence | From the jug beneath the low roof, move left along the lip and pop into the starting holds of Arete Problem. | ||
| 7C |
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Submergence (hard way) | From the jug beneath the low roof, move left along the lip to match the polished sloper. From here, pop into the starting holds of Arete Problem. | ||
| 7B |
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Blind Drunk (reach method) | From the jug beneath the low roof, use long arms to bypass the hard move. | ||
| 8A (soft) |
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Blind Drunk (rock over method) | From jug beneath the low roof, power into remergence using a small dish. | ||
| 6B+ (soft) |
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Remergence | Pull through the centre of the roof to crimps and a crux rockover. | ||
| 7C |
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Blind Fig | A classic eliminate. From the start of Blind Date, match the sloper, then move left to poor lip holds. From here, pop for the finishing crimps of Remergence and rockover to glory. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Blind Date | Start right hand crimp, left hand flake in roof. Climb straight up, via the big sloper. | ||
| 7C+ |
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Blind Fury | The wall right of blind Date. | ||
| Tiny Slab | |||||
| 4 |
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Left Arete | |||
| 5 |
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Left of Middle | |||
| 6A |
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Right of Middle | |||
| 6C |
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Right Arete | |||
| 6C |
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Solitude | The small and lonely buttress 30m right of the Tiny Slab. From a break in the cave, reach leftwards to a flake and rib. Follow this to a finish up and right. | ||
| 6B |
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Shazam | Attain the finishing break of Solitude from directly beneath. | ||
| Ash Tree Wall | |||||
| 7B |
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Puck | The prow on the block left of Sitting in Oxford. Gripping, and only done ground up above a deep snow platform so far. | ||
| 7A |
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Sitting in Oxford | A sitstart up an overhanging arete, the upper part of which is the route Living in Oxford. Pull on to the LHS using a pinch and a choice of poor left hand holds, then make a tricky move for good holds and the break. | ||
| The Terrace | |||||
| 7C (soft) |
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Terrace Left | Start as for the Terrace, but rather than taking the high slot with your lefthand, get it with your right, and make a powerful and insecure move to the good crack on the left. Finish up this. | ||
| 7C (soft) |
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The Terrace | Sitstart the left of the twin boulders and slap up the arete. | ||
| 8A |
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La Terrace | Climb The Terrace to until it is possible to spin and transfer to the opposite wall. Continue down and across to finish up Hanging Wall. | ||
| 7A (soft) |
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Jason's Stand-Up | Climb the fingery wall above the roof. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Jason's Roof sitstart | From sitting, reach round the roof and into the standup. | ||
| 7A (hard) |
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Hanging Arete | Climb the right arete on its left. | ||
| 7A (soft) |
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Hanging Wall | From a sitstart on the keel, contrive a sequence up the steep wall. Finish up the pock-marked slab. | ||
| Striker | |||||
| 7A |
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Striker Arete | Climb the arete left of Striker. | ||
| 7C+ |
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Striker | Direct start to Beach Tea One. Dyno to the break. | ||
| The Sphinx | |||||
| 7B+ |
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Giza | Climb straight up, with a tough rockover. | ||
| 7A+ |
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The Sphinx | Traverse the break rightwards to finish up the arete. | ||
| 8B |
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Voyager | French start using poor crimps, and fight rightwards to a highball finish. | ||
| 8B+ |
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Voyager sitstart | From sitting, pinch viciously rightwards along the lip. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Sputnik | Climb the right arete of the Voyager roof. | ||
| 6B |
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Roof Goofe | From the back, surmount the small roof. | ||
| 5+ |
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Cleo's Edge | The lovely arete on the right-hand block. | ||
| Nicotine Stain | |||||
| 6C |
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Burbage Oddment | Below and left of the route Long Tall Sally is a boulder with a nice arete. Climb this from sitting. | ||
| 7B |
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Plank Sanction | Down and left of the Pocket Dyno is a low roof crack with a few problems based around it. Up and about 20 metres to the left of this is a blunt right facing arete to a break and capping block. Start sitting on the right side of the arete, with a small crimp for your left hand. Use a scalloped gaston to reach an undercut pocket on the left, and a big rock up to the groove and an easier finish. | ||
| 7A |
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Pocket Dyno | Right of Nicotine Stain, above and right of Velvet Crab, is a head height roof with a pocket on the rib above. Jump from the lip to the pocket and up. | ||
| 6C |
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Slabby thing? | Left of Nicotine Stain, and on the wall right of the Fin, climb the thin, slabby wall. | ||
| 6B |
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Nicotine Stain | Climb the techical seam. | ||
| Boyager | |||||
| 7A |
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Bubble | Just behind and left of Boyager is a nice scooped wall. Climb this from sitting (on a single pad) at the right side of the overhang. | ||
| 7B |
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Monochrome | Sitstart the arete left of Mono Bulge, using the mono with your right hand. Steep, powerful and brilliant. | ||
| 7A |
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Mono Bulge | Sit start on the dirty block below Boyager. May not have been climbed. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Left-Hand Ride | From the back, climb the left arete of the prow, with a dyno to the finishing jugs. | ||
| 7A+ (hard) |
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Boyager | From the back, clamp along the prow above an awful landing. | ||
| Velvet Crab | |||||
| 7A+ |
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Velvet Crab | Tackle the highball left arete. | ||
| 6C |
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Left Crack | Climb the left-hand roof crack. | ||
| 6B |
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Right Crack | Climb the right-hand roof crack. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Zaff Skoczylas (sitstart) | Using whatever you can reach from sitting, climb the low-slung prow. | ||
| 7C (soft) |
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Zaff Skoczylas (lying start) | From matching on the big pocket, work up the prow. | ||
| 7C |
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Zaff Skoczylas RH (lying start) | From the same start, reach the slopers at the tip of the prow, then head right and layback to the top. | ||
| Beyond the End | |||||
| 7C |
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Once Upon a Time | The centre of the wall. Has lost pebbles since the first ascent. | ||
| 4 (soft) |
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Beyond the End | The right arete of the block. | ||
| Enterprise | |||||
| 7B+ |
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Enterprise | The highball direct start to Windjammer. The main difficulties are over at 6m, but it has not yet been climbed without top-rope practice. A big press move leads to the crux - establishing a foot above the lip. | ||
| Safe Bet | |||||
| 5+ |
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Pocket Jump | Jump to the good pocket. | ||
| 6B |
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Pebble and Sloper | Climb via the pebble and sloper. | ||
| 6C |
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Safe Bet | Climb the attractive arete on its left. | ||
| 6B |
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Long Shot | |||
| 7A |
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Bedrock | The wall just left of Yabadabadoo | ||
| 6A |
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Yabadabadoo | Leap to the ledge, and continue upwards. | ||
| Far East end | |||||
| 6C |
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Addiction | At the far east of Burbage North, To the right of a slab with a block on on top SS from twin pockets and sloper, reach out right to another sloper, rock out left to top | ||
| Woods below Crag | |||||
| 6A+ |
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Sylvan Slab | On the boulder at the edge of the woods, on the path saide face is a green slab whith a deep finger crack. Climb this to jugs on the top. | ||
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