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Ben's Roof (7C+)
Powerband (7C (hard))
Staminahumps (7C+)
Kristian's Problem (7B (soft))
Big Brassband (8A (soft))
Tumbleweed (8A (soft))
Too Hard for Mark Leach (6C)
Saline Drip (7A)
Undercut Problem Easy Way (7B+)
Little Extra Direct (7A)
Weedkiller Footless (7C)
Killerweed (7C)
Too Hard For Mark Leach Footless (7B (soft))
Wee Dimension (7B+ (soft))
Perverse Killer (7B+) | Saline Drip | |||||
| 7C |
|
Boy Band | From the start of Saline Drip Traverse, climb left all the way to the start of Staminaband. | ||
| 7A |
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Saline Drip | Just right of the tree, head upwards on small holds to reach a jug. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Saline Drip Sitstart | |||
| 7A+ |
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Saline Drip Traverse | From right, traverse left to finish up Saline Drip. | ||
| 8A+ |
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Boy Band into Staminaband | |||
| Powerband | |||||
| 7C |
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Rattle and Hump Footless | Uncomplicated. | ||
| 6C (hard) |
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Boot Boys | Left of the pillar, use large undercuts and sidepulls to reach the jug. | ||
| 7B |
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Out of My Tree | The problem start to the route climbs up the finishing pillar of Powerband via a gnarly jam. Finish at the jug. | ||
| 8A+ (soft) |
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Out of Stamina | Staminaband into Out of My Tree (without moving left to rest on the plinth) | ||
| 7C+ |
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Strict Blueband | A wierd eliminate. Reverse Powerband, without using any of the low holds, or big square pocket used on Rattle and Hump. Finish with a hard drop down to the starting holds of Powerband, eliminating the last pocket on the high line of holds. | ||
| 7C+ |
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Strict Blueband into Rattle and Hump | |||
| 8A (soft) |
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Big Brassband | Strict Blueband into Rattle and Hump the hard way. | ||
| 7C |
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Not Strict Blueband into Rattle and Hump | Follow the line of Blueband, but not the rules, to finish up Rattle and Hump. | ||
| 7C+ |
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Pump up the Power | Climb the slight groove above the final section of Powerband. Small crimps lead the way. Finish at a good flat jug. High. | ||
| 7C |
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Pump up the Power Traverse | Start up Pump up the Power, then make a high traverse left to jugs. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Rattle & Hump Start | From slots, find a way up to the high jug. | ||
| 7B |
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Rattle and Hump Hard Way | Without using the good starting holds on the left, or a heel/toe. | ||
| 7B |
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Power Humps Easy Way | Powerband into Rattle & Hump. | ||
| 7B+ (hard) |
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Power Humps Hard Way | Powerband into Rattle & Hump, but without traversing left to the bigger holds used for the standup. | ||
| 7C (hard) |
|
Powerband | From low pockets, traverse leftwards to finish at the pillar. Rules: 1.There is an approved sequence for the middle section that involves staying high, rather than dropping low. Ask a local. 2.Finish by crossing through to the undercut from the small pocket. Then reach jugs on the pillar. | ||
| 8A |
|
Ben's Traverse | From the finishing pillar of Powerband traverse left to finish at Pinches Wall | ||
| 7C+ |
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Influx | Sitstart with left hand in the Powerband starting pocket, and right hand on the undercuts. Climb straight up using left facing holds to pull through to a good edge. | ||
| 7B (soft) |
|
Kristian's Problem | A direct start to Wild in Me, just right of Influx (and sharing a hold with this problem). Reach the flake and jugs, using a hard-to-see crimp with your left. | ||
| 8A |
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Staminaband | Start on the left facing flake. Traverse low and left to finish along Powerband. The big high pocket near the start is off-limits. | ||
| 7C+ |
|
Staminahumps | Staminaband into Powerhumps Hard Way. | ||
| 8B+ |
|
Staminaband + Pump Up the Power | A monster link up. | ||
| 8A+ |
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Should Be Banned | Staminaband into Ben's Traverse | ||
| Little Extra | |||||
| 7A |
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Little Extra Direct | From good holds below the bulge, head up and right to the jug, via a flat hold and an optional mono. | ||
| 7B+ |
|
Undercut Problem Easy Way | Start on good holds beneath he bulge. Move into undercuts, then up to a diagonal crimp below the sloper. From this position, latch the jug to finish. | ||
| 7C (soft) |
|
Undercut Problem Hard Way | Start on good holds beneath he bulge. Move into undercuts, thenslap straight for a high sloper. From this position, latch the jug to finish. | ||
| 7C |
|
Sidepull Problem | Start as for Undercut Problem, but reach a small edge/pocket, then gain a higher sidepull. Slap into the jug to finish. | ||
| 7C+ |
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Pump up the Valium | Start just left of Hooligan, stacking mats to reach the holds. RH on low undercut, LH on the obvious LH pinch/sidepull. Feet in the obvious egyptian then make the crux move to the crozzle undercut, then slightly easier moves above. | ||
| 8A+ |
|
Hooligan | Pull on using a poor undercut and awful pinch. Slap for a crimp up and right. Finish at the flake. | ||
| 8A |
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Ben's Traverse | From the start of Out of My Tree, traverse leftwards on a low line of holds. | ||
| Pinches Wall | |||||
| 6B+ |
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1, 7, 11, 14 | |||
| 6C |
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1, 7, 12, 14 | |||
| 6C+ |
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1, 6, 8, 14 | |||
| 7A |
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1, LH11, 14 RF A | |||
| 7A+ |
|
Pinches Wall Dyno | From the starting jug, dyno to the top jug. | ||
| 7B |
|
1, 10, 14 | Tasty pinch, goes static. | ||
| 7B |
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15, 7, 21, 22 | |||
| 7B |
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1, 2, 14 (feet A and B) | Nice undercut | ||
| 7B+ |
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1, 7, 21, 22 | Tenuous crimps. | ||
| 7B+ |
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1, 4, 9, 14 | Nice slap off the bobbly pinch. | ||
| 7C+ |
|
Bear Claw | (L15, R15) R16, L18, R19, L20, R22, L22. | ||
| 8A |
|
Malc's One Armer | Do a one arm pull up on hold L9. | ||
| 8A |
|
Pocketrocity | Reverse Ben's Traverse. | ||
| The Cave | |||||
| 6C |
|
Too Hard for Mark Leach | Climb to the capping roof, from low jugs. | ||
| 8A (soft) |
|
Sympathy in Choice | Sitstart on the left side of the cave, swing along the lip and head for the hidden hold. Beta: Sitstart the pillar on ben's roof swing right onto the lip. Match crimps that you come out to if doing keen roof. Right hand to sidepull on lip. Left heel next to left hand. Left hand high up and right to positive crimp cut loose, go for big jug 30cm up and right of crimp. | ||
| 7B (soft) |
|
Too Hard For Mark Leach Footless | |||
| 7C+ |
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Hook | From the good lip hold of Keen Roof, head straight up to jugs, via small crimps. Better holds out left are off route. | ||
| 8B |
|
Keen Roof | Sitstart at the back of the cave, on the left side. Climb directly through the roof via small holds. Once at the lip, traverse left and pull up to finish on jugs under the capping roof. | ||
| 8B |
|
Keen Roof Extension | From the start of Ben's Roof, power straight out to the lip and finish as for Keen Roof. | ||
| 7C+ |
|
Ben's Roof | From low sidepulls at the back, on the right, contrive a sequence leftwards across the roof and along the sidewall. Finish on jugs below the capping roof. | ||
| 7C |
|
Shades of Grey | Sitstart as for Cave Problem, but instead of moving sidewards into the Weedkiller finish, head straight up to the jug next to the bolt. | ||
| 7B+ (soft) |
|
Wee Dimension | Link Weedkiller into the finish of Shades of Grey. | ||
| 7B+ |
|
Cave Problem | From the slot in the cave (right of Ben's Roof start) climb to the finishing jug of Weedkiller. | ||
| 7C |
|
Cave Problem Sitstart | From sitting, power into the standup. | ||
| 7C |
|
Converter | Right of Cave Problem Sitstart, sitstart sharp pockets, gain a rh pinch, undercut another pocket, then go for the lip. Finish on the Weedkiller jug. | ||
| 8A (soft) |
|
Tumbleweed | From the sitstart, link Cave Problem into Basher's Problem, via the first half of Perverse Reverse. | ||
| 7C+ |
|
Tumbleweed - Stand Start | Tumbleweed from standing. | ||
| 8A |
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Let's Get Ready To Rumbleweed | Extends Tumbleweed into Basher's Righthand. Adds good but droppable extra moves on poor holds. | ||
| 8A+ (hard) |
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Fat Lip | Start up Cave Problem, then traverse left along the lip to finish as for Keen Roof. | ||
| 7B |
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Perverse Reverse | Reverse Weedkiller from jugs on its left. | ||
| 7B |
|
Perverse Reverse + Basher's Problem | Link Perverse Reverse into Basher's Problem. | ||
| 6C+ |
|
Basher's Problem | From undercuts at the back, climb straight out and power up to the flat jug. | ||
| 7A+ |
|
Basher's Problem RH | From undercuts at the back, climb to the lip. Reach right to poor holds and use a poor spike and pinch to finish a little right of Basher's Problem. | ||
| 7A+ |
|
Weedkiller Traverse | From jugs right of the pillar, swing leftwards along the lip and finish with big moves upwards to the jug. | ||
| 7B (soft) |
|
Extended Weedkiller | Start Weedkiller about 3 meters right of the normal start on a pair of opposing sidepulls. | ||
| 7C |
|
Weedkiller Footless | Weedkiller, without using footholds. | ||
| 7B |
|
Weedfiller | Follow the line of Weedkiller till near the end, then climb straight up between the Weedkiller finish and Basher's problem, to gain the flake below the roof. | ||
| 7B |
|
Weedkiller High | From jugs right of the pillar, make fingery moves on the high line of pockets to reach and finish up Basher's problem. | ||
| 7C |
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Killerweed | Weedkiller there and back. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Perverse Killer | Perverse Reverse into Weedkiller. A more logical line and more continuous than Killerweed. An all-round better link than the more popular Weedkiller there-and-back. | ||
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info