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The Press Low Left (8A (hard))
Bulge (6A+)
Kudos Easy Way (7B (soft))
A Bigger Tail (7A+ (soft))
Debris Groove (6B)
Johnny G 7c (7C (soft))
Kudos Traverse (7B)
A Bigger Prize (6C)
Porthole Traverse Reverse (7A (hard))
Crimps and Pockets (6B+ (hard))
Toenail Pie (5)
Warm Up Traverse (5+)
Three Tier Test Piece (7B)
Three Tier LH (6B (hard))
A Bigger Splash (7A+) | Caviar | |||||
| Kudos Wall | |||||
| 6A+ |
|
The Dragon Flight Traverse | Left of Caviar, traverse the slabby wall from right to left. Slippy. | ||
| 7B |
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Caviar | 20m further left, the overhanging scoop of Caviar is a good problem, finishing at the jug. | ||
| 6C+ |
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Piranha Start | A little left of Miller's Tale, get stuck into the worryingly bottomless monos. Hopefully not too stuck. | ||
| 7A |
|
Piranha Traverse | From the start of Miller's Tale, traverse left for several metres, to reach good jugs (at the start of the route Coot). | ||
| 6C |
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Miller's Tale | Two metres left of Kudos, sitstart and follow the obvious line up to the high hole in the wall. | ||
| 6B |
|
Miller's Tale (stand start) | Miller's Tale start from standing | ||
| 7C+ (soft) |
|
Rather Grim | Just left of Kudos, follow small crimps into the same finishing flakes. | ||
| 7B (soft) |
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Kudos Easy Way | From jugs on the left side of the wall, pull upwards via sidepulls and finish on juggy flakes up and left. | ||
| 7B |
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Kudos Hard Way | Gaston the low sidepull and rock left to the flake. | ||
| 7C |
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Kudos Original | Do Kudos Hard Way but rock onto the polished sloper to the left, rather than the large jug. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Kudos Easy Sitstart | |||
| 7C |
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Kudos Hard Sitstart | |||
| 7B+ |
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Kudos Sitstart + Bigger Tail | From Kudos Sitstart, head right and finish up Bigger Tail. | ||
| 7B |
|
Kudos Traverse | Start as for Kudos, then head rightwards to the far jugs. | ||
| 7C |
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Kudos Traverse There and Back | |||
| 7A+ (soft) |
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A Bigger Tail | Jump to finger jugs, then work upwards with a crux move for the high jug. | ||
| 7C (soft) |
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Johnny G 7c | Pull on (lh dish, rh slot) and slap into the start of A Bigger Tail. Finish up this. | ||
| 8B (soft) |
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A Bigger Belly | Make desperate crimping moves to reach Bigger Tail from sitting. Finish up this. | ||
| 7C |
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The Pinch | Match hands on the slopey protrusion beneath the Bigger Splash Direct undercut. Pull on and throw for the large sidepull jug to the left. | ||
| 7C |
|
Ned's Problem | Match hands on the slopey protrusion beneath the Bigger Splash Direct undercut. Pull on and throw for the Bigger Splash jug. | ||
| 8A |
|
Tsunami | As for Tsunamish, but without the pocket (match the sloper). This was the original method. | ||
| 8A |
|
Dancing Fish | Start up Tsunami, then head into Bigger Tail via the juggy sidepull. | ||
| 7C+ |
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Tsunamish | Sitstart on the slots down and left, then finish up Bigger Splash Direct. (Non-eliminate version of Tsunami). | ||
| 7B+ |
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A Bigger Splash Kneeling | Start with both hands on the rail. | ||
| 7B (soft) |
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A Bigger Splash Direct | Use the Press gaston as a right hand sidepull, and use a left hand undercut up and left. Slap into the jug. | ||
| 7C |
|
A Bigger Splash Low Right | Sitstart as for Bigger Splash, then move left into Bigger Splash Direct. | ||
| 8A (hard) |
|
The Press Low Left | Start in the low slot and move right into the Press. | ||
| 7B+ |
|
The Press | From twin gastons, lock off to a crimp, then go for the jug. | ||
| 7C+ |
|
The Press Kneeling | Start from the rail, and power upwards through The Press, | ||
| 8A |
|
The Press Low Right | From the start of Bigger Splash, move left and finish up The Press. | ||
| 7A+ |
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A Bigger Splash | From sitting at jugs on the right side of the wall, climb sharp flakes to finish on jugs. | ||
| 6C |
|
A Bigger Prize | The wall right of A Bigger Splash from sitting. | ||
| 8A+ (hard) |
|
Press Low Left + Reverse Kudos Trav + Kudos Hard | |||
| 8A+ |
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Tsunami + Reverse Kudos Trav + Kudos Hard | |||
| 7C+ (hard) |
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BSD + Reverse Kudos Trav + Kudos Hard | |||
| 7C+ (hard) |
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Press + Reverse Kudos Trav + Kudos Hard | |||
| 8A+ |
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Press Low Right + Reverse Kudos Trav + Kudos Hard | |||
| Traverses | |||||
| 5+ |
|
Warm Up Traverse | From far left, traverse the line of holds to Three Tier. | ||
| 6A+ |
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Bulge | From the right, climb diagonally leftwards through the bulge. | ||
| 5 |
|
Toenail Pie | Jugs lead past the sign, on its left. | ||
| 6B |
|
Debris Groove | The right wall of the prow. | ||
| 6B+ (hard) |
|
Crimps and Pockets | Just right of Debris Groove. | ||
| 6B (hard) |
|
Three Tier LH | Climb the left hand line straight through Three Tier. | ||
| 6B |
|
Three Tier RH | Climb the right hand line straight through Three Tier. | ||
| 5+ |
|
Three Tier High Traverse | From the either side of three tier, traverse the high line of holds to its end. Finish as you like. | ||
| 6A (hard) |
|
Three Tier Middle Traverse | From the either side of three tier, traverse the middle line of holds to its end. Finish as you like. | ||
| 6C |
|
Three Tier Low Traverse | From the either side of three tier, traverse the line of low holds to its end. Finish as you like. | ||
| 7B |
|
Three Tier Test Piece | From right, traverse along Low Traverse, then back along Middle Traverse, then back along Top Traverse. Finish up Debris. | ||
| 5+ |
|
Flakes and Pockets | Climb the wall right of three tiers. | ||
| 6C |
|
Little Sit Down LH | On the low wave of rock right of the three tiers, sitstart on very low edges, with feet on tiny polished things. Reach slopey pocket with right hand and dyno to the top. | ||
| 7A+ |
|
Little Sit Down RH | On the low wave of rock right of the three tiers, sitstart on very low edges, with feet on tiny polished things. Reach slopey pocket with left hand and dyno to the top. | ||
| 7A (hard) |
|
Porthole Traverse Reverse | Starting from the porthole, traverse leftwards finishing at the flake. Holds on shelf and crack are out at this grade. | ||
| 7B |
|
Porthole Traverse | Starting at the good flake, traverse rightwards avoiding holds on the shelf / ledge and the crack, to finish matched in the porthole. | ||
| 7C |
|
The Full Traverse | From the porthole on the far right, traverse left below the break, then into Low Traverse and finish up Debris. French Grade: 8a+. Apparently, it is best done "in tights, a 'banana' pod chalkbag and two bits of carpet (one for each end)." | ||
| Church Buttress? | |||||
| 7A+ |
|
hvhggkijh | Sitstart at the obvious point and make a highish traverse rightwards along big underclings to finish up crimps and things. | ||
| 6B |
|
hjasdlsqd | Sitstart and pull up into the groove. | ||
| 7B |
|
qw,hqwedqdq | Towards the left, sitstart and climb sidepull/gastons. | ||
| 7A+ |
|
dffafawe | Standing start up the middle of the lefthand section. | ||
| 7A |
|
efWFEWF | Sitstart and blast up the right side of the left hand section of rock. | ||
| 7A+ |
|
Undercuts dwwef3dwedwe | Sitstart and make powerful moves via undercuts. Swing right to finish up crimps and gain a jug. | ||
| 6B |
|
easy up | Sitstart up the obvious good holds. Finish on jugs past the overlap. | ||
| 7A+ |
|
trav | From holds on the far right end, make a hard move up and left to gain the high traverse line. Follow this leftwards to the easy exit into jugs. | ||
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info