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Violence (7A)
Attitude Inspector (7A (hard))
Triangular Wall (7A)
Iain's Roof (strict) (7A)
Hanging Prow Sitstart (7A+)
Knick Knack Paddy Whack Sitstart (7A)
Bad Attitude (6C (hard))
Flat Wall Dyno (6C+ (soft))
Entrance Slab (6C)
Slab Middle (5) | Entrance Slab | |||||
| 6C |
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Entrance Slab | Start from the floor (be strict) and climb the slab. | ||
| Bad Landing Rib | |||||
| 6B |
|
Bad Landing Rib | |||
| South Quarry | |||||
| 5+ |
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Poisoned Dwarf | To the left of the quarry is a tall, peg-scarred crack. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Trellis | Climb the highball leaning wall opposite the Cioch block. From undercuts, climb via edges. | ||
| 7C |
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The Leotard Legend | Climb the wall just right of the route Captain Invincible, finishing at the obvious ledge. | ||
| Between Quarries | |||||
| 5+ |
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Concave Wall | The concave wall requires balance. | ||
| 6A |
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Undercut Wall | The small roof and wall right of the concave, starting from the back. | ||
| 5+ |
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Tricky Arete | Just across the way from the concave wall area is a short wall above the South Quarry. Climb the arete, with all sorts of tricks. | ||
| 7A |
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Little Gem | Jump start the fingery wall right of the arete. | ||
| 7B |
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Little Gem (strict) | Without the jump start. | ||
| North Quarry | |||||
| 6B |
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Hanging Prow | Facing in to the quarry is a hanging prow. Pull on and thrutch upwards. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Hanging Prow Sitstart | Facing in to the quarry is a hanging prow. From a squatting start with feet on the back slab, slap upwards. | ||
| 7C |
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Zorev | The sharp arete on the left of the quarry, with a patio landing. | ||
| 7C+ |
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Zorev Sitstart | |||
| 7A |
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Violence | On the small block with a slightly overhanging face, climb from sitting to a slopey topout. | ||
| Above and Beyond | |||||
| 7A |
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Above and Beyond The Kinaesthetic Barrier | From left, climb to the high arete, then finish leftwards. Solid E4 with protection! | ||
| 7B |
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Above and Beyond Direct Start | Straight up the arete. | ||
| 8A |
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Samson | Start up the offwidth route Goliath, then swing left to finish up wall. Highball, and has not been bouldered without top-rope practice. | ||
| 7A+ |
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David Traverse | From standing on the shelf, descned round the arete and traverse rightwards to reach flakes and finish on a finger jug. | ||
| 7C |
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Roller Wall | Highball and slabby. Climb direct up the middle. | ||
| 5+ |
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Saul | The chipped wall to the ledge. | ||
| Pebble Mill | |||||
| 6B+ |
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Pebble Mill | Climb the slab and arete. Jump off at some point. | ||
| 6C |
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Pepper Mill | Climb the arete on its right, to a good jug. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Pebble Mill Traverse L-R | Traverse the wall from undercuts, to finish on the far arete. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Pebble Mill Traverse R-L | Traverse the wall to finish on the far undercuts. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Pepper Mill Exit | Traverse pebble mill right to left and finish up the arete on its right. | ||
| 7B (soft) |
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Pebble Mill Stem | Probably the best problem on this wall. From the right arete, traverse left with feet on the Pebble Mill traverse handholds. Finish up the left arete, on its right. | ||
| 5 |
|
Dork Child | The arete a little right of the Pebble Mill wall, on its left. | ||
| 7 Ball | |||||
| 6A+ |
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7 Ball (standing) | |||
| 6C (hard) |
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7 Ball | From a sitstart on low holds right of the groove, traverse left to grapple upwards, using the arete. | ||
| 4+ |
|
Wall | |||
| 6A |
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Right Arete | The right arete of the wall. | ||
| Broddle | |||||
| 6B+ |
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Broddle's Baby | Climb the awkward arete from standing. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Trapped in Crows' Craws | Clamp up the twin aretes from sitting and finish leftwards up Broddle's Baby. | ||
| 7A |
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Trapped in Crows' Craws RH | Make an easier finish rightwards, but above a worse landing. | ||
| Lower Slab | |||||
| 5+ |
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Adjacent Arete | Climb the arete on the adjacent boulder, from sitting. | ||
| 5+ |
|
Slab Left | Climb the left hand line, without arete or groove. | ||
| 5 |
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Slab Middle | Climb the middle of the slab. | ||
| 4 (soft) |
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Slab Right | Climb the slab on its right, no arete. | ||
| Mantel Block | |||||
| 6C |
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Adjacent Problem | The wall left of the arete on the boulder just left of the mantel block. | ||
| 7A |
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Jason's Mantel | Left of centre, mantel the low slab from a hanging start. | ||
| 6C |
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Not Jason's Mantel | Right of centre, mantel the slab from a hanging start. | ||
| Small Block | |||||
| 6B+ |
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Small Block | Climb the small block, from sitting. | ||
| Electrical Storm | |||||
| 7B+ |
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Electrical Storm LH Finish | As for Electrical storm, but exit leftwards. | ||
| 7B |
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Electrical Storm | A lightning bolt set in stone. Sitstart and follow the rightwards leading ramp to a top out on good edges. | ||
| Attitude Inspector | |||||
| 6C (hard) |
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Bad Attitude | Crimpy flakes left of Attitude Inspector, just right of the crack. | ||
| 7B |
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Bad Attitude Sitstart | Pull into the standup from sitting, using very poor footholds. | ||
| 7A (hard) |
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Attitude Inspector | The arete just right of a corner, with a dynamic top move. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Attitude Inspector Sitstart | Sitstart. Go up. | ||
| 7B |
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The Neck | The wall a couple of metres left of the Knack, to the obvious break. Starts just right of the crack/arete of Nathanial and doesn't use this feature - just a selection of nasty little crimps up to the break. Landing needs ample padding. | ||
| 6B |
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The Knack Sitstart | Sitstart the obvious line through the middle of the wall. | ||
| 7A |
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Old Macdonald | The wall between the Knack and Bright Eyes. | ||
| 7A |
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Knick Knack Paddy Whack Sitstart | From matched on the large undercut on the right side of the wall, climb to the first break. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Bright Eyes | The direct finish to Knick Knack Paddy Whack, climbed from standing. This is likely to need cleaning due to being a drainage line. It can also be done from sitting (as for Knick Knack Paddy Whack Sitstart) at the same grade. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Bright Eyes Sitstart | |||
| 7A |
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Gib's Rib | Climb the fine right arete of the next wall right. Finish at the break, and escape down the easy route to the left. Brilliant moves. | ||
| Definitive 5.11 | |||||
| 6B |
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Rock Bottom | On the lower boulder, hang the lip left of the 5.11 crack and rock onto the slab. | ||
| 6C+ |
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Definitive 5.11 | Time for some caving. Crawl into the crevice between boulders, then climb the crack to add variety to your return voyage. | ||
| 7B |
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Definitive Burlesque | An arm busting link up. Climb Definitive 5.11 from the very back and traverse into Pedestal problem. Finish up this. | ||
| 6C+ |
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Pedestal | From sitting on the pedestal, move to the lip and make a long rockover to the pocket. | ||
| 6A |
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Definitive Arete | From the jug, ascend the arete. | ||
| The Knock/Captain Sensible | |||||
| 7B (soft) |
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Knocksville | Did this around 1994 not sure if it had been done before Sit start the knock then up digaonally left on slopes and edges till the good ledge is reached. Eliminate but good. | ||
| 6C |
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The Kursk | Sitstart Byrne's crack (left of the Knock). Get your jams out... | ||
| 7C |
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Slopey Traverse | A little to the left, just right of the knock, traverse the slopey block from a left arete jug. Finish up slopers just past the centre. | ||
| 6B |
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Shelf Wall | Climb using the shelf. | ||
| 5 |
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Left Arete | On its right. | ||
| 5 |
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Right Arete | On its left. | ||
| The Alliance & Classic Arete | |||||
| 7A (soft) |
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The Alliance | The highball prow is climbed by straddle-slapping. Spotters and extra pads recommended. | ||
| 7A+ |
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The Alliance Sitstart | Clamp upwards from sitting. | ||
| 7A+ (soft) |
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Classic Arete Original | Start on the right side of the arete and climb up and left turning onto the left side of the arete very low. Finish up the left side. | ||
| 6C |
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Classic Arete | A little to the right of The Alliance. Start as low as possible on the front face. Move up to the left arete, rockover onto the slab and swing left on the arete jug for an easy finish. No right arete. | ||
| Home Cooking | |||||
| 7A |
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Home Cooking | Hug up the highball prow. | ||
| 6C |
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Eating Out | Climb the slab on the right side of the arete. | ||
| Desparete & The Rib | |||||
| 7B |
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A Moveable Feast | The next block left of The Rib has a leaning right arete. Climb this on it's right side from sitting. | ||
| 7B+ |
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The Rib | A little left of Desperate is a quarried rib. Climb this with a crux slap to the top jug. | ||
| 6C |
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Brap Scallion | The left arete of the Desparete face from a stand start (considerably easier with jump start) | ||
| 7B+ (soft) |
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Pump the Dirty Groove | The usually dirty groove right of the rib. From left hand undercut, right on crimp at bottom of groove. | ||
| 7B |
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Desparete | The aretes right of the groove offer highball hugging action. | ||
| Intense | |||||
| 7B |
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I'm Tense | Sitstart from a low slot and move up and left using undercuts and a sidepull. | ||
| 7C |
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Intense (standing) | Stack pads to reach the high holds. | ||
| 8A |
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Intense | Using a left hand side pull, french start to the right hand side pull and go for the top. | ||
| Triangle Boulder | |||||
| 7B |
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Triangular Wall Arete | Climb out to the left arete, from the same start. | ||
| 7A |
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Triangular Wall | From sitting, reach the crimp and go for the good edge. | ||
| Fuji | |||||
| 6B (soft) |
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Standup Arete | Climb the small arete on its right, from standing. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Fuji Heavy Industries | The sitstart to Standup Arete, with an awkward move to get stood up. | ||
| 6B |
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Pocket Wall | From the pocket, go for the break. | ||
| 7A |
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Pocket Wall Sitstart LH | Sitstart just right of the arete, and make a couple of moves to gain the slopey pocket. Finish at the break. The large foothold to the left is in. | ||
| 7B+ |
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Pocket Wall Sitstart RH | Sitstart from an undercut down and right. | ||
| 6C+ (soft) |
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Flat Wall Dyno | The leaning wall to the right, with some steep pulls to good arete holds. | ||
| Little Rascal | |||||
| 7A (soft) |
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What a Way to Spend Easter | Some way to the left of Little rascal, and before Flat Cap, is this hemmed in slab. | ||
| 7A |
|
Little Rascal | Climb the groove on the right hand side of the wall. At the sloping ledge, escape right or jump. | ||
| 8A |
|
Little Rascal Sitstart | Start from a full sitting position, in the crack, to gain the standing start. | ||
| Flat Cap | |||||
| 6C+ |
|
The Whippet | From the break, reach the lip and pull over. No arete. | ||
| 7A+ |
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The Flat Cap | On the far side, from the lowest part of the block, traverse awkwardly leftwards from two crimps. Topout at the highest point. | ||
| Left of Definitive 5.11 | |||||
| 5+ |
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High Arete | Is high. | ||
| 7C+ |
|
pigs make nests sit start | uses crimps(right) and left hand sidepull/undercut. | ||
| 7C (soft) |
|
pigs make nests | on the 'left of definitive 5.11' boulder this problem goes up the wall just right of high arete starting on a pinch(left hand) and a crimp (right hand) via a two finger pocket(right) and some slopers. | ||
| 7C |
|
life of pie | starting on a good right hand hold, left on finger pocket, slap your way up the slopers. Basically the direct on pockets n stuff, starting on the ground instead of the boulder. | ||
| 7A |
|
more cheese gromit | The roof right of life of pie. sit start, left on side pull, right on low flake, feet on ledge. power up through the roof using left arete, finish direct up the nose. 6c with jammed block for feet | ||
| 5+ |
|
Pockets 'n' Stuff | |||
| Below Definitive 5.11 | |||||
| 7B+ (soft) |
|
Iain's Pinch | A wall on shallow pocketed rock. Step off the boulder to reach a nice LH pinch, and go for a slopey top, via a small RH pocket. | ||
| 6C |
|
Iain's Roof | The roof just right of Mike's Problem, using the footblock. From two huge holds, power through the roof. | ||
| 7A |
|
Iain's Roof (strict) | Without the footblock. | ||
| Stasis | |||||
| 7B+ (soft) |
|
Stasis | Follow the arching undercut crack feature until a big span or a tasty double dyno gets you onto the sloping ledge. Mantle to a jug on the wall if you feel brave and have lots of pads, or traverse off into the gully - same grade either way. Harder for the small. | ||
| The Tower | |||||
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info