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Miss You Already (7A+)
War (7A)
War and Peace (7B)
Peace Traverse (6A)
Nip (6C)
Lawnmower Man (6A+)
Tuck (6B+ (soft))
Fat Slags (6A+)
The Whirling Pit (5)
The High Priest (6B+)
Credit Crunch (6A+)
Layered Cake (6A+)
Don't be Strangers (7A)
Fat Slags LH (6C)
Crumble in the Jungle (7A) | Well Hidden Buttress | |||||
| 6A |
|
Peace Traverse | Follow decent holds rightwards. | ||
| 7A+ |
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Miss You Already | Left to right traverse on the low break. | ||
| 7B |
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War and Peace | Worthwhile link of the hardest bits of traversing. Climb Miss You Already to mid-crux then a burly drop-down to the start of War and finish along this. | ||
| 6B+ |
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The High Priest | A highball problem taking the wall just right of the low roof, all the way to the top. E4 6a. | ||
| 6C |
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Blue Nunn | From sitting, blast up the wall on crimps. Finish on good holds. | ||
| 6C |
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Nip | Parallel sit start right of Blue Nunn - Start from 2 moves along War and up via tiny crimps to good holds. Tall geezers may be able to lank past the crimps, thereby missing the whole point! Really just a filler to make a visit worthwhile. | ||
| 6B+ (soft) |
|
Tuck | Another parallel line right of Nip - Sit start 2 moves further along War from Nip, rock over on left heel up to good holds. Another filler to create a circuit. | ||
| 7A |
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War | L to R traverse of the lowest break - From the starting holds of the Blue Nunn sitter follow the obvious line of holds right with judicious use of heal hooks to good crimps then up to a jug. Short but engaging. | ||
| The Little Quarry | |||||
| 4+ |
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Lisa Lust | The furthest left line. | ||
| 5 |
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The Whirling Pit | The wall left of the arete. | ||
| 5 (soft) |
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Short Ride | The arete. | ||
| 4 |
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Roger Melly | The wall. | ||
| 4+ |
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Billy the Fish | The corner. | ||
| 7A |
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Crumble in the Jungle | From hanging the break, ascend via pockets. | ||
| 6C |
|
Fat Slags LH | Head left at the top. | ||
| 6A+ |
|
Fat Slags | Head up and right. | ||
| 7A |
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Don't be Strangers | From left, traverse right to finish up the arete. | ||
| 6A+ |
|
Layered Cake | From hanging the break, climb via the pocket to the left. | ||
| 6A+ |
|
Credit Crunch | From hanging the break, climb straight up. | ||
| 6A+ |
|
Lawnmower Man | The right arete. | ||
| The Main Quarry | |||||
| 6B |
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Gain Entry to Your Soul | Left of Robin Hood, climb to the break. E3 to top out. | ||
| 6A+ |
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Robin Hood | Aim for the curving crack beneath the tree. E3 to top out. | ||
| 6A+ (hard) |
|
Cad Cam Warrior | From a large slot, aim for the break. | ||
| 6A+ |
|
Friar Muck LH | The wall a metre left of Friar Muck. | ||
| 6B |
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Friar Muck | Beneath a high crack, climb straight up to the break. E1 to top out. | ||
| 7A (soft) |
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Heavenly Action | From the moss-bound ledge, traverse left to finish past Gain Entry to Your Soul. | ||
| Lion Rock | |||||
| 6B (soft) |
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Churnet Chainsaw Massacre | Left of the main crag is a smaller buttress at the left end is a small overhang. Sit start under the small roof and climb throught the breaks above | ||
| 7B+ (hard) |
|
Panther Dash | The really basic v highball blunt arete above the blocks is followed straight up and slightly rightwards. 3 pads advised. | ||
| 6B |
|
Micro Dyno | The main juggy line in the centre of the main crag is the pride about 2m left of this is a good flat hold dyno from this to the upper break | ||
| 7A (hard) |
|
The Pride | The amazing roof and headwall from 88. E6 back then. 7A nowadays. Perfect landing | ||
| 6A+ |
|
Micromaltese | An eliminate About 2m right of the last problem and just left of the main juggy flake line. Start on the rail and pocket a lon g reach gains slopers hang these and go for the jugs above | ||
| 6A (hard) |
|
Jug and sidepull | At the right hand end of the wall gain the rail using the obvios jug and sidepull. May be easier without the sidepull | ||
| 7A |
|
Spanned out ballet | A good eliminate Climb the wall without the large jug/pocket using the side pull. Reachy! | ||
| 6B+ |
|
Tiger Pants | Another eliminate.At the extreme right end of the wall, start at a pocket and climb the groove using the sidepull as a press | ||
| 7A (soft) |
|
The Lioness | Start at the pocket just left of the grove/crack at the end of the wall as for tiger pants. Traverse at a low level without the big jug/pocket on crimps sidepulls and generally poor footholds to finish at the jugs at the start of the pride. | ||
For any enquiries, please contact gareth@peakbouldering.info